In the thread on hand planes I mentioned that I use a Work Sharp 3000 to sharpen my chisels and plane irons. I also mentioned that I have the wide blade attachment which I use for blades over 2" and for sharpening skew angles.
In order to accomplish this I made a very simple jig but it works pretty well. I may refine it at a later date as this is the prototype but it worked right off.
[img][IMG]http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv32 ... 010078.jpg[/img][/IMG]
The jig itself consists of two pieces of oak about 4" long. The bottom piece is 1/2" thick and 3/4" wide. The top piece is 1/4" thick and 3/4" wide.
[img][IMG]http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv32 ... 010072.jpg[/img][/IMG]
To use the jig for sharpening a skew iron, I insert the iron between the top and bottom pieces and just snug the screws. I use my angle protractor to set the desired skew angle.
[img][IMG]http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv32 ... 010074.jpg[/img][/IMG]
I painted the cutting edge with a black marker to help me get the right sharpening angle.
Continued on next post.
Avery simple but very handy jig for the Work Sharp 3000
Moderator: admin
Work Sharp Jig continued
[img][IMG]http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv32 ... 010074.jpg[/img][/IMG]
[img][IMG]http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv32 ... 010075.jpg[/img][/IMG]
I now rub the cutting edge over the abrasive with the power off and check for even removal of the marker. I adjust the length protruding from the jig until I get an even removal. I now know that I am matching the existing angle.
Now I can sharpen my iron through the grits until I get a scary sharp tool. You can even add a micro bevel by placing a 1/16 to 1/8" shim under the jig to raise the attack angle slightly.
The end resut is a very sharp tool. This jig can be used for many blades you may want to sharpen on the top surface of the Work Sharp. It can also be used for chisels or irons that have non-parallel sides such as Japanese chisels.
[img][IMG]http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv32 ... 010075.jpg[/img][/IMG]
I now rub the cutting edge over the abrasive with the power off and check for even removal of the marker. I adjust the length protruding from the jig until I get an even removal. I now know that I am matching the existing angle.
Now I can sharpen my iron through the grits until I get a scary sharp tool. You can even add a micro bevel by placing a 1/16 to 1/8" shim under the jig to raise the attack angle slightly.
The end resut is a very sharp tool. This jig can be used for many blades you may want to sharpen on the top surface of the Work Sharp. It can also be used for chisels or irons that have non-parallel sides such as Japanese chisels.