Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

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What color to paint my ER10? (post #216)

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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

It's amazing the simplest places you can get stuck when doing a restoration. I have the ER completely unassembled except for a knob that is on the end of the quill feed lever. I just can't get it to budge.

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The knob on the other side came off after a one day soak in evapo-rust. It did take a number of nylon mallet blows spaced around the inside surface for it to move.

I sprayed the frozen knob / shaft interface about 6 times over the course of 2 days with "Kroil". No luck budging it. I then decided to submerge it in evapo-rust for 2 days, again with no luck.

I can only think of two other options.
  1. Apply heat with a propane torch and try rotating the knob vs. striking it with a mallet. I'll need to wrap a piece of leather belt around it so that it doesn't get damaged by the pipe wrench.
  2. Use a slide hammer. (don't have one....). Since the end of the knob is solid, a bearing / gear puller won't work. The problem with this is I have no good way to hold the shaft from moving. There is a lock collar that you can just see on the other side of the headstock but even with the nylon hammer blows, it causes the lock collar to slide and dig up the shaft. The set screw just can hold it. I suppose I could back it up with a big c-clamp to help it out.
I'll try #1 tonight. If that doesn't work, I'll have to fashion a homemade slide hammer. Cheapest ones I've seen are about $30.
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Mike
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »


Ok, so maybe there was a THIRD option I didn't consider.:D
Mike
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mickyd wrote:Ok, so maybe there was a THIRD option I didn't consider.:D
#4?:rolleyes: Do you have any 3/8-16 bolts :D about 6-8" long? put one or three into the hub and either use them directly or to have a longer lever arm a piece of pipe over them. A nut attached at the outside of the hub where the bolt enters will HELP to keep from damaging the hub threads. Unfortunately the handle holes are NOT perpendicular to the hub surface.:( Since the threaded hole goes all the way into the shaft bore hole, you would need to avoid screwing the bolts in too far!


P.S. Can you see the steel shaft from all 4 holes?

BTW How long are the quill handle shafts, and what is the diameter of the ball?
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

Lightly tap it onto the shaft, then SOAK it again for 24 hr.
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Post by judaspre1982 »

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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Wed May 17, 2017 6:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

JPG40504 wrote:#4?:rolleyes: Do you have any 3/8-16 bolts :D about 6-8" long? put one or three into the hub and either use them directly or to have a longer lever arm a piece of pipe over them. A nut attached at the outside of the hub where the bolt enters will HELP to keep from damaging the hub threads. Unfortunately the handle holes are NOT perpendicular to the hub surface.:( Since the threaded hole goes all the way into the shaft bore hole, you would need to avoid screwing the bolts in too far!


P.S. Can you see the steel shaft from all 4 holes?

BTW How long are the quill handle shafts, and what is the diameter of the ball?

I somewhat dismissed the use of the threaded holes since they are a fairly loose fit on the quill handle shaft unless the shaft is bottomed out in the hole. Your suggestion however of using a nut to bias the threads against the mating teeth may eliminate that. It's definitely worth a try and a better option than the pipe wrench.

I managed to scrounge up a couple 3/8-16 x 9" bolts that I can try out. I will go real easy until I am sure it won't strip out the holes.

Your P.S.....yes, I can see the bottom of the holes (bet you thought I forgot the set screw now dintcha?)

Your BTW....I will check dimensions when I get home. You mention shafts . My unit only had the one quill handle shaft. You have more?
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

judaspre1982 wrote:Mike, I'm surprised the Kroil did not do the trick. Heat can be your friend in this situation. The aluminum should heat up fast. Do you know what a ball joint puller looks like? It is fork shaped and forms a wedge. You could try and fabricate something similar to pry on the knob. A piece of wood against the dial indicator would protect it from the prying. I will search for a pic of the puller---Dave http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004159/c-10614/Nty-1/p-2004159/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10614/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=ball+joint+puller

It's possible that I have a mechanical interference vs. corrosion. Don't know for sure yet. Ball joint puller concept is definitely an option. (real familiar with automotive stuff....drag raced a SCREAMING 420HP NOS Mazda RX-7 for 7 years...you learn more repair tools than you even want to know!!) I even thought of something like the ball joint puller with long forks so that I could strike both sides of the feed lever knob at the same time with 2 mallets.

beeg wrote: Lightly tap it onto the shaft, then SOAK it again for 24 hr.


Don't think I can wait another day beeg. Getting to impatient watching the knob taking a bath. Plus, if interference is mechanical.....
Mike
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Post by baysidebob »

judaspre1982 wrote:Mike, I'm surprised the Kroil did not do the trick. Heat can be your friend in this situation. The aluminum should heat up fast. Do you know what a ball joint puller looks like? It is fork shaped and forms a wedge. You could try and fabricate something similar to pry on the knob. A piece of wood against the dial indicator would protect it from the prying. I will search for a pic of the puller---Dave http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Prod ... int+puller
If you google "pickle fork" you will find informaton on this ball joint puller you reference.
I keep finding little windows on this forum, that I don't really know what they do. So sometimes I experiment. Probably shouldn't do that, I know in my shop it can get me into trouble.
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RE:Pickle Fork

Post by judaspre1982 »

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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Wed May 17, 2017 6:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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