Adirondack Chairs

2manband · Post by **2manband** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:52 pm

Has anybody built Adirondack Chairs with the Shopsmith?

I found some decent looking plans online, drew the parts to scale in AutoCAD am having some full size drawings printed out. I'll cut them out and use them as patterns - should be easier and more accurate than measuring and marking all of the angles and curves on each piece.

I'm planning to build the chairs out of 1x pressure treated pine, with most of the curved pieces cut on the bandsaw, and the straight pieces ripped on the table saw and cross cut on the (non SS) compound mitre saw. Everything will be assembled with galvanized or stainless screws.

So here are my questions:

1. Which bandsaw blade would you recommend for this? Cutting will be a combination of some curves and some straight portions. I'm thinking that the 1/4" 6TPI blade would be the way to go.

2. What kind of fasteners would be best to use? I'd prefer not to spend the extra $ on Stainless if I don't have to. Would hot-dip galvenized be a good alternative? These will be used outside all throught the spring/summer/fall and brought into the garage for the winter.

osx-addict · Post by **osx-addict** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 2:10 pm

I can't speak towards your questions but one thing jumped out at me...

If you're using pressure treated lumber, I'm assuming you're going to paint it afterwards? I'd be leary of sitting on any unfinished pressure treated chair or other outdoor furniture due to what they use for the pressure treating as it's a carcinogen.. See this link for background info and sealing info. I looked to see what Norm Abrams used on his version and he used Cypress which apparently needs no preservatives,etc.. Anyway, just my $0.02 worth..

judaspre1982 · Post by **judaspre1982** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 2:31 pm

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curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 2:36 pm

I would have to second the motion to not use pressure treated lumber. This stuff is just nasty and is not suitable for furniture making. I would suggest using cedar or cypress or one of the other outdoor types of wood. Another option would be to use the man made decking as suggested by Nick Engler in one of his sawdust sessions.
As to the bandsaw blade the 1/4" should work fine. I have used both the stainless and the galvanized. Both will work, but the galvanized makes a better looking chair.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 2:38 pm

Can you get aluminum screws? In any event, hide them from the 'elements'. Plug all holes. Use something which can be later dug out in case you then need access to the screw.

judaspre1982 · Post by **judaspre1982** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 2:54 pm

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john · Post by **john** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 5:44 pm

I have made adirondack chairs from cedar with the SS a few years ago. I used the 1/4" blade for cutting the curved sections. I also didn't want to spend the dollars for stainless steel bolts so I used the galvanized ones where requied and standard deck screws for other fasteners. This was about six years ago and I have not seen any problems yet.

Good luck.

John

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 8:00 am

While "pressure treated" used to be synonymous with CCA, that hasn't been the case since January 2004. In fact, your typical home improvement store doesn't carry CCA pressure treated lumber at all.

This link would be of use to some to better understand the various forms of pressure treatment of lumber, their applications, availability and suitability.

http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/ptwoodfaqs.html

2manband · Post by **2manband** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 8:35 am

As far as the pressure treated lumber is concerned - I've also read some stuff similar to what foxtrapper posted. That's part of the reason that I was thinking about using it. Having said that, though, the composite decking is a good alternative that I hadn't considered. That stuff should last a heck of a long time, and isn't too terribly cost prohibitive. In my experience, though, it's not very rigid. Maybe I could use PT for the structural parts and composite for seating surface and back. Hmmmmmm....something to think about.

Thanks for all the replies.

doug45601 · Post by **doug45601** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 11:06 am

I built over 130 chairs using PT lumber and never had a problem or call back. Don't use alum screws as suggested.. They will turn to powder. Use galv deck screws and bolts and or stainless or brass. BTW the newer PT lumber is AC2 from grade .03 to .09 for general homeowner use. Also PT will dry out quickly and leaving it safe to set on. Just don't put it in your mouth!

I just installed a composit deck. Hollow core stuff, easy to work with but can be gouged and scratch easy. Pre-drill holes near the ends just like regualr wood or it will crush down.. and it is "hot" when setting in the sun all day.

Just my .02