Routing w/ Mark V
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Routing w/ Mark V
The book directions say rout against the direction of the bit, but then they add that if you are using the rip fence, all feeds are left to right. The left to right feed simply sent my workpiece flying. So - what is the correct thing to do, or what did I forget to do?
- JPG
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What type of cut were you attempting? Were you cutting the side of the workpiece closest to the fence which was BEHIND the bit(Behind defined same as feed left to right). If you were cutting the side/edge of the workpiece AWAY from the fence, the bit would be trying to climb onto the workpiece(sometimes grabbing it and throwing it!).
P.S. When 'they' say rout(feed) against the direction of the bit , 'they' are referring to the direction of the bit where it contacts the workpiece at a right angle. This is primarily referring to cutting with only ONE side of the bit contacting the workpiece. This side should be fed so the bit(at the right angle cutting position) will be 'pushing' back. That is the direction of the bit cutting edge will be opposite that of the feed. The motion of the bit will cut from the 'inside' 90 degree position to the outside edge(which should be the same side of the workpiece as the fence).
P.S. When 'they' say rout(feed) against the direction of the bit , 'they' are referring to the direction of the bit where it contacts the workpiece at a right angle. This is primarily referring to cutting with only ONE side of the bit contacting the workpiece. This side should be fed so the bit(at the right angle cutting position) will be 'pushing' back. That is the direction of the bit cutting edge will be opposite that of the feed. The motion of the bit will cut from the 'inside' 90 degree position to the outside edge(which should be the same side of the workpiece as the fence).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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Check this out. It may make it a bit easier to understand.drbob117 wrote:The book directions say rout against the direction of the bit, but then they add that if you are using the rip fence, all feeds are left to right. The left to right feed simply sent my workpiece flying. So - what is the correct thing to do, or what did I forget to do?
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ ... x?id=26963
Basically - don't trap the stock between the fence and the rotating bit. The stock will go flying every time. It happens so quick you don't even have time to speak the words that you might have wanted to.
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Dusty
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Dusty
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- JPG
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Notice the direction of rotation in the link above. It is the opposite direction. That is why it says feed right to left!:)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
If you were using the same metal rip fence that you use for rip sawing, you had to be routing on the outside edge of the wood. (The other edge was against the fence) Yes, this is very dangerous. As you found, it will throw your wood - also when the wood is thrown, it may also carry your hand into the spinning bit.drbob117 wrote:The book directions say rout against the direction of the bit, but then they add that if you are using the rip fence, all feeds are left to right. The left to right feed simply sent my workpiece flying. So - what is the correct thing to do, or what did I forget to do?
If the book was talking about using the same rip fence that you would use to rip saw - then they were talking about routing a groove inside of the wood. From left to right is the proper wood movement when using this set-up. The leading edge of the spinning bit will tend to pull the wood into the fence, keeping the wood from getting away from you.
If the book was discussing the use of the split, Shaper/Drum Sander fence and you wanted to route an edge, then only the inside edge should be routed and the wood should move from left to right.
You can rout the outside edge (using the standard rip fence) if you move the wood from right to left. But be very careful doing this, as the bit is not hidden by a fence and hands must be kept away. Also you need to make light cuts. If you are routing a profile, like a roundover or ogee, a good way is to first set your fence, then make several passes moving the bit straight downward about 1/16" each time. You can do this procedure also with a straight bit if it does not have a guide bearing.
P.S. I've always thought right to left or left to right are confusing instructions. This is because it all depends on where the bit is located relative to the work piece, and whether the bit is spinning form above or below the wood. It is easier to first ascertain the spinning direction of the router bit, then make sure you planned cut will be against the forward moving side of the bit.
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Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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drbob117
Welcome to the forum. You have received good advice but let me add a word of caution. As you have already found out routing in the wrong direction caused the bit to grab and sling the work piece. It will also take fingers into the bit with it.
Work safe and thanks for joining the forum.
Mark
Welcome to the forum. You have received good advice but let me add a word of caution. As you have already found out routing in the wrong direction caused the bit to grab and sling the work piece. It will also take fingers into the bit with it.
Work safe and thanks for joining the forum.
Mark