KV pocket doors/Blum tandem undermount drawer glides
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Starting on the pocket doors.
[ATTACH]5244[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]5245[/ATTACH]
Notice that I have set the shelf 1/4" below the rail. I have added a second 3/4" bottom that sticks up 1/2". It serves as a door stop at the bottom of the door. It also stops 1 1/2" from the styles. This is for the pocket door travel.
[ATTACH]5248[/ATTACH]
I have also added a door stop for the top of the doors. It also stops 1 1/2" from the styles.
[ATTACH]5246[/ATTACH]
This is the hardware.
[ATTACH]5247[/ATTACH]
The doors require a 35 mm hole for the cup hinge 5 mm from the edge and 2 1/2" to the center from the top and bottom.
To be continued
Mark
[ATTACH]5245[/ATTACH]
Notice that I have set the shelf 1/4" below the rail. I have added a second 3/4" bottom that sticks up 1/2". It serves as a door stop at the bottom of the door. It also stops 1 1/2" from the styles. This is for the pocket door travel.
[ATTACH]5248[/ATTACH]
I have also added a door stop for the top of the doors. It also stops 1 1/2" from the styles.
[ATTACH]5246[/ATTACH]
This is the hardware.
[ATTACH]5247[/ATTACH]
The doors require a 35 mm hole for the cup hinge 5 mm from the edge and 2 1/2" to the center from the top and bottom.
To be continued
Mark
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- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1627
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:18 am
- Location: Greer SC
[ATTACH]5249[/ATTACH]
Next step is to insert the hinges. I use a straight edge and a # 5 vix bit to predrill the screw holes.
[ATTACH]5250[/ATTACH]
Now clip the pocket glides to the hinges. A wooden following strip 1/2" thick and 3 inches wide will have to be attached to the glides. In this position it is easy to measure the length.
[ATTACH]5251[/ATTACH]
Following strip attached.
[ATTACH]5253[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]5252[/ATTACH]
Now I measure for the screw locations in the cabinet.
Tune in tomorrow
Mark
Next step is to insert the hinges. I use a straight edge and a # 5 vix bit to predrill the screw holes.
[ATTACH]5250[/ATTACH]
Now clip the pocket glides to the hinges. A wooden following strip 1/2" thick and 3 inches wide will have to be attached to the glides. In this position it is easy to measure the length.
[ATTACH]5251[/ATTACH]
Following strip attached.
[ATTACH]5253[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]5252[/ATTACH]
Now I measure for the screw locations in the cabinet.
Tune in tomorrow
Mark
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- Platinum Member
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- Location: Greer SC
From these measurement I have determined that my first screw should be 1 7/8" up and 2 7/8" inn from the front of the face frame.
[ATTACH]5257[/ATTACH]
With that information I draw a line on my build out block at 1 7/8". I then mark 2 7/8" in and use a punch to start my screw. (Edit) Before starting the next step, seperate the door from the glides by unclipping the hinges. I then screw the glide at this point. Sorry I didn't get a pic of that operation.
[ATTACH]5258[/ATTACH]
With the bottom glide attached at the front now I just locate the line and attach the back of the glide. The bottom is secure for now.
[ATTACH]5259[/ATTACH]
I have also drawn a line at the top at 2 7/8" and with the following strip pulled as far forward as possible to the hole I attach the top glide with a screw.
[ATTACH]5260[/ATTACH]
Now with 3 screws in slide the following strip as far to the back as possible and attach with another screw.
[ATTACH]5261[/ATTACH]
This is the glides attached with 4 screws and the following strip pulled as far forward as it will go. In this location you can clip the door back on. I have intensionally used the slotted screw holes that will allow for front to back adjustment if needed. As with all European hinges there is a lot of adjustment available.
Mark
[ATTACH]5257[/ATTACH]
With that information I draw a line on my build out block at 1 7/8". I then mark 2 7/8" in and use a punch to start my screw. (Edit) Before starting the next step, seperate the door from the glides by unclipping the hinges. I then screw the glide at this point. Sorry I didn't get a pic of that operation.
[ATTACH]5258[/ATTACH]
With the bottom glide attached at the front now I just locate the line and attach the back of the glide. The bottom is secure for now.
[ATTACH]5259[/ATTACH]
I have also drawn a line at the top at 2 7/8" and with the following strip pulled as far forward as possible to the hole I attach the top glide with a screw.
[ATTACH]5260[/ATTACH]
Now with 3 screws in slide the following strip as far to the back as possible and attach with another screw.
[ATTACH]5261[/ATTACH]
This is the glides attached with 4 screws and the following strip pulled as far forward as it will go. In this location you can clip the door back on. I have intensionally used the slotted screw holes that will allow for front to back adjustment if needed. As with all European hinges there is a lot of adjustment available.
Mark
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- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1627
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:18 am
- Location: Greer SC
[ATTACH]5262[/ATTACH]
I have clipped the door on to check the fit and have lucked out. It is very close.
[ATTACH]5263[/ATTACH]
I push it into the pocket and check for any problems.
[ATTACH]5264[/ATTACH]
Now I place this roller so that the door doesn't rub on the door stops. Now as they say just rinse and repeat.
[ATTACH]5265[/ATTACH]
Cabinet with doors and drawer fronts in place. I will add more screws to the glides when I reinstall everything after staining. OH and that wood filler and those pencil marks will be sanded out as well.
Mark
I have clipped the door on to check the fit and have lucked out. It is very close.
[ATTACH]5263[/ATTACH]
I push it into the pocket and check for any problems.
[ATTACH]5264[/ATTACH]
Now I place this roller so that the door doesn't rub on the door stops. Now as they say just rinse and repeat.
[ATTACH]5265[/ATTACH]
Cabinet with doors and drawer fronts in place. I will add more screws to the glides when I reinstall everything after staining. OH and that wood filler and those pencil marks will be sanded out as well.

Mark
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Blum Slides
Those Blum Slides that you showed looked great, the first time I used them they were a little hard to understand but once you get the hang of them they are fabulous. I have used them on a few of my cabinets in the past and once the new clients get to see them in operation they all want them. More $$$$
Dan
Dan
Mark V 520,Mark V 510(2),Mark V 500(2) Dust Collector(2), Jointer(2), bandsaw(2), jigsaw, beltsander, biscuit joiner(2) Lathe Duplicator, RingMaster, Pro planer
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- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1627
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:18 am
- Location: Greer SC
Thanks for the welcome, I have been a Shopsmith owner now since 1987 when I picked up my first new 510, since then I have been the scouring the area like a Canadian Beaver picking up Shopsmith machines in my area. I am up to (1)510, (2) 500's and surdry other items. The last was a machine sitting in an outside container for 4 years a 500 model and it had the jigsaw, jointer, belt sander, ring master and a few incidentals all for $450Cdn about $380US. I was only after the attachments the third machine was just a pure bonus, I plugged it in at home and it ran like a kitten, it just purrrrrrred. Not bad for a machine left on the fast setting and untouched for 4 years. Glad to be among a group of people who are dedicated.
Dan
Dan
Mark V 520,Mark V 510(2),Mark V 500(2) Dust Collector(2), Jointer(2), bandsaw(2), jigsaw, beltsander, biscuit joiner(2) Lathe Duplicator, RingMaster, Pro planer