I just purchased a used SS that appears to be in pretty good condition (I think it was new in the early- to mid-80s). The previous owner is a friend of mine who used it often maybe 10 years ago and then kind of set it aside.
Before turning it on, I blew out/sucked out the little bit of sawdust that was inside. I noticed that it had no rust and seemed to be in good condition.
As I was taking things off, preparing to do some maintenance (waxing, lube, etc.) before running it, my stepson was exploring it a bit, turning things, moving things, and so on. Apparently, he turned the speed dial until it was tight. (It was set to roughly 75% of the fastest speed when I got it.)
I turned the dial back to its original state, where the dial turned easily. Unfortunately, now I can't get it to start. Every time I turn it on, it groans for about a second then the circuit breaker blows.
I can turn the shaft by hand and have even tried to turn it while flipping the switch on (yes, I know, safety first). The shaft seems to turn as easily as one would expect a belted motor to turn. I just can't get it to start.
Help!
Shopsmith won't start - blows circuit breaker
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rdaugherty
- Bronze Member
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- Joined: Sun Jul 12, 2009 5:07 pm
I personally have not yet had the same issue. I seem to remember someone advising placing a sanding wheel or lathe face plate on the back side of head stock (if facing switch to your left) then turning the wheel you have created and slowly lower the speed adjustment down to slow. Then if you have checked everything and found no issues it may start. Have you checked wiring? Bill Mayo is the fellow to check with for solutions. Goo dluck with your new jewel. fjimprdaugherty wrote:I just purchased a used SS that appears to be in pretty good condition (I think it was new in the early- to mid-80s). The previous owner is a friend of mine who used it often maybe 10 years ago and then kind of set it aside.
Before turning it on, I blew out/sucked out the little bit of sawdust that was inside. I noticed that it had no rust and seemed to be in good condition.
As I was taking things off, preparing to do some maintenance (waxing, lube, etc.) before running it, my stepson was exploring it a bit, turning things, moving things, and so on. Apparently, he turned the speed dial until it was tight. (It was set to roughly 75% of the fastest speed when I got it.)
I turned the dial back to its original state, where the dial turned easily. Unfortunately, now I can't get it to start. Every time I turn it on, it groans for about a second then the circuit breaker blows.
I can turn the shaft by hand and have even tried to turn it while flipping the switch on (yes, I know, safety first). The shaft seems to turn as easily as one would expect a belted motor to turn. I just can't get it to start.
Help!
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Well I HOPE ya didn't mess up the pork chop by turning the speed dial with no rotation of the spindle. ::eek:
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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rdaugherty
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Jul 12, 2009 5:07 pm
Update - still not working.
I turned the shaft as described and was able to turn the dial down to slow without forcing it.
When I turn it on, the motor groans and the plate rotates maybe 1/4 inch. It's trying to rotate.
The belts look to be in decent shape. Not too tight (based upon the manual). The lower belt does not, however, appear to be in perfect alignment with the lower guide. The lower guide is in (towards the motor) maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch compared to the upper.
I watched the Sawdust Session #17 (Replacing the Mark V Speed Control) and he removed the belt with ease (but in the fast setting). There's no way I could remove the belt like he did. (I was going to try to see if the motor would spin without any load.)
That's the latest. Thanks to all who help.
I turned the shaft as described and was able to turn the dial down to slow without forcing it.
When I turn it on, the motor groans and the plate rotates maybe 1/4 inch. It's trying to rotate.
The belts look to be in decent shape. Not too tight (based upon the manual). The lower belt does not, however, appear to be in perfect alignment with the lower guide. The lower guide is in (towards the motor) maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch compared to the upper.
I watched the Sawdust Session #17 (Replacing the Mark V Speed Control) and he removed the belt with ease (but in the fast setting). There's no way I could remove the belt like he did. (I was going to try to see if the motor would spin without any load.)
That's the latest. Thanks to all who help.
Hi;
Try this. First unplug the machine and then remove the belt cover.
Then grab the sheave that is behind the spring and pull it forward and try to loosen the belt. If the belt has become wedged in the drive system sometimes releasing the tension may cause the machne to run ok.
If this does not work remove the V belt from the motor sheave and the idler shaft and with the belt out of the machine try to run the motor. If it still hums and blows the breaker you may have driven some sawdust into the motor and jammed the centrifugal switch. Re-attach the V belt. You can try to blow some compressed air through the motor while turning the spindle by hand and with the machine unplugged.
If these itemd all fail then carefully examine the wiring for frayed or cracked insulation. Sometimes on older equipment when wiring is moved for servicing the insulation can crack and cause a short but the humming sounds like that this is probably NOT the case.
Good luck and keep us posted. We like to hear about results.
Bill V
Try this. First unplug the machine and then remove the belt cover.
Then grab the sheave that is behind the spring and pull it forward and try to loosen the belt. If the belt has become wedged in the drive system sometimes releasing the tension may cause the machne to run ok.
If this does not work remove the V belt from the motor sheave and the idler shaft and with the belt out of the machine try to run the motor. If it still hums and blows the breaker you may have driven some sawdust into the motor and jammed the centrifugal switch. Re-attach the V belt. You can try to blow some compressed air through the motor while turning the spindle by hand and with the machine unplugged.
If these itemd all fail then carefully examine the wiring for frayed or cracked insulation. Sometimes on older equipment when wiring is moved for servicing the insulation can crack and cause a short but the humming sounds like that this is probably NOT the case.
Good luck and keep us posted. We like to hear about results.
Bill V
I have had a similar issue a couple of times. In my case the belt was jamed behind the speed dial. I was able to 'correct' it by
First UNPLUG THE UNIT!!!!!
Remove any blades from the headstock.
pull the belt cover and the service port cover.
put a faceplate or sanding disk on the headstock.
while rotating the unit by hand watch the belts.
If the motor belt is not spinning check to see where it is pinched. In my case it was pinched at the idler sheave/control sheave area.
Work the belt free.
That was all it took for me.
Hope this helped.
Mike
First UNPLUG THE UNIT!!!!!
Remove any blades from the headstock.
pull the belt cover and the service port cover.
put a faceplate or sanding disk on the headstock.
while rotating the unit by hand watch the belts.
If the motor belt is not spinning check to see where it is pinched. In my case it was pinched at the idler sheave/control sheave area.
Work the belt free.
That was all it took for me.
Hope this helped.
Mike
Mike......... Rowlett, Texas, near Dallas
86 MK V 500/520. 59 MK 5 Greenie Shorty. SS Jointer, SS Planer,
SS Bandsaw, SS Lathe duplicator, SS Belt Sander,SS Molder & Shaper,
SS Tenon master jig, SS Mortising kit, SS 2 1/4' Drum Sanders, Ringmaster, DC3300....
86 MK V 500/520. 59 MK 5 Greenie Shorty. SS Jointer, SS Planer,
SS Bandsaw, SS Lathe duplicator, SS Belt Sander,SS Molder & Shaper,
SS Tenon master jig, SS Mortising kit, SS 2 1/4' Drum Sanders, Ringmaster, DC3300....
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rdaugherty
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Jul 12, 2009 5:07 pm
I tried several suggestions:
Both belts turn when I rotate the plate.
When I checked inside (through the back plate) to see if the "pork chop" was broken, I could see that everything adjusted according as I turned the dial while turning the plate.
When I turned it to a higher speed, the lower belt became loose, so much so that it no longer turned with the V belt. Is this normal?
I did this:
"Then grab the sheave that is behind the spring and pull it forward and try to loosen the belt. If the belt has become wedged in the drive system sometimes releasing the tension may cause the machne to run ok."
No change.
I need to figure out how to remove the V belt. I'll search the manual or search the sawdust sessions.
I'll return when I can get to doing this.
Both belts turn when I rotate the plate.
When I checked inside (through the back plate) to see if the "pork chop" was broken, I could see that everything adjusted according as I turned the dial while turning the plate.
When I turned it to a higher speed, the lower belt became loose, so much so that it no longer turned with the V belt. Is this normal?
I did this:
"Then grab the sheave that is behind the spring and pull it forward and try to loosen the belt. If the belt has become wedged in the drive system sometimes releasing the tension may cause the machne to run ok."
No change.
I need to figure out how to remove the V belt. I'll search the manual or search the sawdust sessions.
I'll return when I can get to doing this.
Welcome to the Forum
Just another thing to think about. The SS requires a minimum of a 15 amp circuit by itself. If you are plugging the machine into a circuit which already is pulling some amps from other loads, this may be causing your problem. You didn't mention how far away from you breaker panel the power is and what type of circuit you were plugging it into. If you are more than 100 feet from your breaker with just number 14 wire size then a 15 amp circuit will not give you enough voltage to safely run your machine without possible damage to the motor (voltage drop occurs after 100 feet) You would need a 20 amp circuit for a distance over 100 feet. Just something to think about seeing that we do not know what your power source is at this time.
Just another thing to think about. The SS requires a minimum of a 15 amp circuit by itself. If you are plugging the machine into a circuit which already is pulling some amps from other loads, this may be causing your problem. You didn't mention how far away from you breaker panel the power is and what type of circuit you were plugging it into. If you are more than 100 feet from your breaker with just number 14 wire size then a 15 amp circuit will not give you enough voltage to safely run your machine without possible damage to the motor (voltage drop occurs after 100 feet) You would need a 20 amp circuit for a distance over 100 feet. Just something to think about seeing that we do not know what your power source is at this time.
Ron from Lewisburg, TN
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foxtrapper
- Gold Member
- Posts: 439
- Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:05 am
Shopsmith won't start - blows circuit breaker
Most likely, some sawdust/crud got on the centrifugal switch points when you were cleaning the headstock and prevents them from making contact for the start windings. I have been successful removing the motor from the motor pan and blowing the sawdust/crud from the motor with compressed air. If the compressed air did not work, let us know what is the make and model of the motor. I have not found a bad capacitor on any Shopsmith motor yet. There were other posts available for checking the capacitor.
If you like to do your own repairs, then I would recommend you order a DVD or VHS tape from Jacob Anderson on Repairing your Shopsmith Headstock and Repairing the Shopsmith Motor for ($29.95) email at jacobvb@yahoo.com or from Ebay (jacobvb_the_s_smith_doc) . These are excellant for learning how to repair/rebuild your Gilmer and Poly-V headstocks and 4 different types of Shopsmith motors. Even through I have repaired many headstocks and motors, I got the DVDs from him and review them often before working on a headstock or motor.
Check out his new website for more info: http://www.jacobs-repairshop.com
If you like to do your own repairs, then I would recommend you order a DVD or VHS tape from Jacob Anderson on Repairing your Shopsmith Headstock and Repairing the Shopsmith Motor for ($29.95) email at jacobvb@yahoo.com or from Ebay (jacobvb_the_s_smith_doc) . These are excellant for learning how to repair/rebuild your Gilmer and Poly-V headstocks and 4 different types of Shopsmith motors. Even through I have repaired many headstocks and motors, I got the DVDs from him and review them often before working on a headstock or motor.
Check out his new website for more info: http://www.jacobs-repairshop.com
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)