Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

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What color to paint my ER10? (post #216)

Poll ended at Sat Nov 21, 2009 12:35 pm

Other (post you answer)
18
50%
Other (post you answer)
13
36%
Other (post you answer)
5
14%
 
Total votes: 36

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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

“Mr. Original" broke out of his comfort zone. With the posts and PM's that were made re: "What color should I paint my ER?", the overwhelming consensus was "maroon". Obviously, the was never a factory OEM color but figured that on this unit, I "might" be different. Not fully convinced to paint it this color yet but needed to prototype it to see. Can always repaint it like it “should be” in the future. This time……decided to be bold.

Couldn't find any of the Rustoleum Hammered Maroon I talked in an earlier posst so went with Rustoleum Burgundy Gloss Enamel. Cheaper and DEEPER in color than the hammered which I like better anyway. Comes close to matching my RX-7 and also affyx's '55 Chevy. With the rough texture already on the ER's cast iron headstock, wasn't sure if it was worth the search OR the 6 can minimum case purchase to go with the hammered paint anyway so…… it is what it is.

First, I painted the inside of the headstock with 3 coats of gray primer. Really brightened it up!! I don't have a real good before shot but here's the best I could come up with.
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[ATTACH]5703[/ATTACH]. . . [ATTACH]5704[/ATTACH]
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Had to decide what to do with the tube lock handles. Bought one can each of Rustoleum Specialty Metallic Gold and Metallic Silver spray paint. The cap on the cans made it look like gold and chrome plating but in actuality, it doesn't’t come out anywhere near that well on any part with less than a perfect surface finish. Applied 3 coats of the metallic spray paint PLUS 3 coats of clear enamel on top but still doesn't look like a plated part. Not sure what I’ll do from here but here’s what they look like. (sorry for the funky black background)
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[ATTACH]5705[/ATTACH]. . .[ATTACH]5706[/ATTACH].
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The gold looks the best with the burgundy but…..it also looks a little cheesy, like gold painted Christmas decorations. Had it looked like gold plating it would have looked AWESOME.

Finally, painted the headstock. Applied 3 coats of the burgundy enamel. Could have done it in 2 coats had I applied primer over the original paint. If the original paint been uniform, I wouldn't have needed the primer but since there were areas with paint missing, it took 3 coats to cover. I have to post the pics in the next message since I’ll exceed the max number of pictures in this one.
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Mike
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mickyd
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Painted headstock

Post by mickyd »

[ATTACH]5698[/ATTACH]. . . [ATTACH]5702[/ATTACH]
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[ATTACH]5700[/ATTACH]. . . [ATTACH]5701[/ATTACH]
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Still not 100% positive I like the color but I'll finish up the assembly of the headstock first to see what it looks like as a whole.

So whadda ya think.......yes, no, maybe on the color?
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Mike
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enyoc
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Post by enyoc »

mickyd wrote:So whadda ya think.......yes, no, maybe on the color?
Sweet! (how about chrome plating the handles instead of gold paint?!!!)
JC
Hampden Twp, PA

Bought, restored and sold a 520 before I knew what I had (and should have kept) - Now I found religion and I'm working on restoring a 500 and a 10E.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

affyx wrote:Sweet! (how about chrome plating the handles instead of gold paint?!!!)
NAH! Gold plate em!:D They would look good with the 'brass' SS plate!;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

affyx wrote:Sweet! (how about chrome plating the handles instead of gold paint?!!!)

I thought about getting a quote on chrome plating all the hardware but decided against it for this restoration. I would imagine that it would be a few hundred dollars??? Maybe on the next resto and as JPG suggests.....gold plating maybe?? :rolleyes:.
Mike
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mickyd wrote:I thought about getting a quote on chrome plating all the hardware but decided against it for this restoration. I would imaging that it would be a few hundred dollars??? Maybe on the next resto and as JPG suggests.....gold plating maybe?? :rolleyes:.
Actually I like the 'gold' paint. It would match the brass ss logo/sn plate(unplated). All them bigger knobs would be like xmas balls on a tree.:D



Never saw a CAR xmas tree. (Candy Apple Red for those who are .....challenged);)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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etc92guy
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Something Just Came To Mind..........

Post by etc92guy »

I know that the "standard" for restoration is to spray the inside of the headstock with primer or self etching primer. However, I was taught that primer is porous and designed to absorb moisture, ie. paint. If you leave the object in primer, it will corrode faster.

So what's happening on the inside of these headstocks that are now primed? Are they corroding faster? :confused:
Craig
Hartland, WI
-Mark 5 "Greenie" S/N 342238, Manuf. mmm/mmm 1957, Acq. Oct. 2008, Joiner S/N M067266
-10 E/ER(?) S/N Unknown, Joiner 4E S/N 40051
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

etc92guy wrote:I know that the "standard" for restoration is to spray the inside of the headstock with primer or self etching primer. However, I was taught that primer is porous and designed to absorb moisture, ie. paint. If you leave the object in primer, it will corrode faster.

So what's happening on the inside of these headstocks that are now primed? Are they corroding faster? :confused:

Interesting comment. First I've heard of this. Do you recall how you found out about that? Looks like I'll be clear coating mine this weekend.
Mike
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mickyd wrote:Interesting comment. First I've heard of this. Do you recall how you found out about that? Looks like I'll be clear coating mine this weekend.
Last I knew, cast iron is 'porous'. Aluminum doesn't rust(thin oxide instead).

While you are at it mike, fill the casting with tar. It isn't porous!:D
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Post by nuhobby »

mickyd wrote:
So whadda ya think.......yes, no, maybe on the color?
I like it and I know you'll make it work! Can't tell for sure until you put some parts back in the headstock. Maybe a little highlight of a cream color on the belt guards would look sharp....

P.S. Is that your original headstock and how did you fix the crack that happened in disassembly?
Chris
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