bobgroh wrote:OH, boy, here is where the rest of the guy's are going to jump on me and pummel me good.
My answer to cutting 3" off the end of 2x8? I would use my circular saw and a homemade T-guage I have just for this kind of work. No way I would try to rassle my 510 around to do the job. I could (I have all kinds of extension tables, cross cut sleds and the like), I just wouldn't do it. I kind of try to fit my jobs to my tools. Just because I have a hammer, I don't try to drive deck screws with it. Just my thoughts.
Bob
You won't get any pummeling from me. I agree!
Trying to crosscut 3 inches off a 2x8 on Shopsmith is looking for trouble. Unless the piece can be fully supported on my crosscut table it is done on the my Radial Arm or circular saw.
bobgroh wrote:OH, boy, here is where the rest of the guy's are going to jump on me and pummel me good.
My answer to cutting 3" off the end of 2x8? I would use my circular saw and a homemade T-guage.....
ppppssssstttttttt.....don't tell anyone.... I used a Ryobi battery powered circular saw, carpenters square to get a perpendicular line, piece of plywood clamped in place to run my circular saw base up against and make the cut!!
johnmccrossen wrote:Here is a set up I used for cross cutting the ends of 4ft 2 x 10's on my model 500. Worked ok with the extra main table and miter guages. I think a 6 ft board would have been ok too with a little more support on long end.
Now this I would have done. Nice setup John. Using both hands, one each on the miter gages, would give me a more secure feeling what was going on.
bobgroh wrote:OH, boy, here is where the rest of the guy's are going to jump on me and pummel me good.
My answer to cutting 3" off the end of 2x8? I would use my circular saw and a homemade T-guage I have just for this kind of work. No way I would try to rassle my 510 around to do the job. I could (I have all kinds of extension tables, cross cut sleds and the like), I just wouldn't do it. I kind of try to fit my jobs to my tools. Just because I have a hammer, I don't try to drive deck screws with it. Just my thoughts.
There is nothing wrong with your choice of tools for that job. No pummelling from me. Mike asked how he could make the cut with his Mark V, and we tried to answer him.
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
I can't add anything to this thread in terms of the set up. You have all of the best ideas here, but I used the miter gage extension, clamped everything up, waxed, leveled all the extension tables and still could not control the torque on 60 in pieces until I had a helper to keep a bit of pressure on the outside end.
Even then, I had a couple of " less than acceptable" cuts and a bed that is slightly narrower than planned. ( 1/8 in) That is why I have gone to other methods for really long stock. great thread.
a1gutterman wrote:There is nothing wrong with your choice of tools for that job. No pummelling from me. Mike asked how he could make the cut with his Mark V, and we tried to answer him.
If I wanted to cut out a 3'x5' section of my cement driveway using my Mark V, how would I make the cut??
dusty wrote:The first thing you have to do is get a special table. You don't what to scratch up a good table sliding it across the concrete.
I do not see any blade recommendations! Wouldn't want to scarf up a good carbide tipped thin kerf blade! Maybe an old steel blade would do(if the concrete is NOT too thick!:D
P.S. BTW a speed reducer may help!(maybe two in tandom){100/7 = 14 rpm}
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:I do not see any blade recommendations! Wouldn't want to scarf up a good carbide tipped thin kerf blade! Maybe an old steel blade would do(if the concrete is NOT too thick!:D
P.S. BTW a speed reducer may help!(maybe two in tandom){100/7 = 14 rpm}
Also, take lots of steroids, get yourself a good truss, etc.!!:D
BPR
( 1/8 in) That is why I have gone to other methods for really long stock. great thread.
