dusty wrote:You are correct in all you say. The dust can really be dealt with in another way. In Junior High School shop class, the first tools we were taught to use and the ones I excelled at were the dust pan and broom.
But you ask why - because the dust collector is suppose to do that for me.
Maybe you don't have saw dust like I do and hopefully you don't have the tracking problem that I do. My shop is directly outside the back door into the house. Dusty foot prints in the laundry room get me in trouble regularly.
SO Why did Mrs Dusty take up the 'welcome mat'. Get another one(welcome mat NOT Mrs!) and wipe yer dusty feet off prior to re-entering the laundry room!:D
Or slip those crocs off & go barefoot in the house. Make sure your shop pet does not take up residence in one of them b4 putting them back on if you leave them IN the shop.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Interesting discussion! So much concern about a little sawdust! Yes!, some sawdust lands on the carriage and way tubes and floor. So?...........
Perhaps that's why Shop smith offers the two floor sweeps!
One thing that puzzles me is all the references to the lower saw guard's proximity to the tie bar, but no reference to the Tie Bar Guard (514115). Have we all thrown ours (that part) away? It is useful in helping to avoid escaped sawdust.
In regards to having a fixed (width) lower saw guard -- Seems to me it would have to be fixed at the widest position to allow for dado blades. I wonder if this would allow other saw blades to center in the table insert?
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
I thought that the adjustable panel was just for making room for something like a dado head set wide. Since I rarely use any of mine for sawing I haven't paid a lot of attention do just how clean it catches heavier chips. I feel that my Ridgid TS-3650 does an excellent job of collection.
The dust collector on my hatchet doesn't pick up the heavy chips well either.
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Actually I have never paid much attention to the heavy stuff and until recent years not even the fine stuff. Now I do want to get every bit of the fine stuff I can and if it sucks in as much as possible of the coarser chips that is OK too. Having a floor sweep sure makes cleanup more fun.
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All I have ever had for the ultra fine stuff (the stuff that hangs in the air like smoke) is a 20" box fan with a pair of 20" x 20" furnace filters duct-taped to it. That or open doors and fans. Not too bad but I am ready to set up something better.
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Sadly this summer shop time has been almost non-existent in either shop. I keep thinking fondly back to before I retired when I seemed to have more time...
I have an event at a living history museum next week and I have two engine rebuilds for someone else that I absolutely must get done this month then other than a couple of family things I "think" the rest of the winter is mine.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
robinson46176 wrote:then other than a couple of family things I "think" the rest of the winter is mine.
UNTIL the "Family" finds ya have time.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
.
Bob
Ed in Tampa wrote:Dust
I think the lower saw guard is adjustable so you can change blades or move to disk sanding both without having to remove the guard.
...loosen the hex nut holding the lower guard to quill to allow the blade/sanding disk the room to slide on or off the arbor.
I position mine so it is very close to tie bar yet still misses it when I lower the table. Having an upper vaccum port via the Saw Shark (oem upper blade guard) pretty much collects all my dust.
... hang a heavy fabric (like canvas) attached to the four corners of the table
Some very interesting ideas.
I especially like the idea of doing away with the annoying lower guard adjustment and instead slipping it down the quill for blade replacement. MUCH easier to do that! I am going forthwith to my SS and locking the lower guard adjustment permanently in place.
"Saw Shark"-- availability??
table skirt-- very nice. localize the mess that can't be grabbed above.
charlese wrote:Interesting discussion! So much concern about a little sawdust! Yes!, some sawdust lands on the carriage and way tubes and floor. So?...........
Perhaps that's why Shop smith offers the two floor sweeps!
One thing that puzzles me is all the references to the lower saw guard's proximity to the tie bar, but no reference to the Tie Bar Guard (514115). Have we all thrown ours (that part) away? It is useful in helping to avoid escaped sawdust.
In regards to having a fixed (width) lower saw guard -- Seems to me it would have to be fixed at the widest position to allow for dado blades. I wonder if this would allow other saw blades to center in the table insert?
For what I have been doing with the dust collector, the tie bar and tie bar guard are almost in the same vertical plane and therefore establish the same lateral position of the lower saw guard.
As for width of opening - placing the lower saw guard up against the tie bar or tie bar guard (as a point of reference) is about as far open as you can go. If you open any further, the lower saw guard impedes the table when you attempt to lower it.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
charlese wrote:One thing that puzzles me is all the references to the lower saw guard's proximity to the tie bar, but no reference to the Tie Bar Guard (514115). Have we all thrown ours (that part) away? It is useful in helping to avoid escaped sawdust.
Rats!
A possible "Aha! maybe this'll help" moment turned into a "Oh, that" letdown.
I had to rush down and see if mebbe I had removed the TB Guard for some reason and forgot to put it back on, but alas, when I looked-- the Guard is riveted to the tie bar, so there's no question it will always be there, but I'd forgotten about it because it does appear to be part of the tie bar, not a separate item.
(I may have to spend a few seconds wondering why the parts listing shows screws fastening the Guard to the tie bar, when I have rivets. )
And I see I need to make a correction. I'd earlier reported I used painter's tape to seal the gap between the tie bar and the table underside, well, it's the Guard what gets the tape, of course. And sealing that gap does help, a lot.
On my 510 the Tie bar guard is attached with screws. Didn't know there was another way. I remove the plastic guard in order to use dust collection from below while using the insert with the round hole (router/molder insert). Often, I forget to put the guard back on.
The only times I adjust the width of the lower saw guard is when changing from a saw blade to a dado blade.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
The Tie Bar Guard is attached to mine with screws also. I didn't know that they were permanently attached.
Gotta think on this awhile. How does that effect Charlese approach.
I also gotta go mount a dado blade and see what I am missing there. It seems to me as though my dado blade comes up in the center of the insert opening and that I adjust the lower saw guard the same way as with a regular blade.
That'll have to wait until tomorrow though. I gotta take a nap. I've had a house full of grand kids and kids all day.
This is the saw dust that I am trying to get rid of via the dust collector rather than broom and dust pan. What you see here is the result of one pass through a piece of 1" MDF about 4' long.
This is not a lot of saw dust but if you cut up a couple sheets for a project you got a lot of sweeping to do.
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"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I have been trying to figure out exactly what Dusty showed in his photographs. I attached a cardboard cutout to the inner guard assembly that filled in the front of the lower sawguard, raising the effective height to the table regardless of where the height of the table was set. This did not really stop the small cuttings from landing on the carriage. It seemed that most of the cuttings were coming out past the top of the tie bar guard, which does not come all the way up to the table to allow for table tilt. Keacaps solution to put tape from the top of the guard to the table seems to have met with good success.
I am thinking about attaching a second hose port to the front of the lower guard assemble, something like the model 500 upgrade sawguard has. Has anyone tried something like this?
