I have someone that wants me to build them a small folding computer table for a large RV. The top would be around 36"x18"
He also wants a shelf below.
Kinda stumped on how to go about this.
Like to see any photos\ or plans of like table.
Small folding table
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- cincinnati
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- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
I have a small, rolling computer table that I picked up cheap as part of an auction lot. it is roughly that size. the design could be converted to folding in a couple of different ways depending on how they wanted to store it. I'll see if I can get a usable picture of it tomorrow.cincinnati wrote:I have someone that wants me to build them a small folding computer table for a large RV. The top would be around 36"x18"
He also wants a shelf below.
Kinda stumped on how to go about this.
Like to see any photos\ or plans of like table.
it does not have a shelf, though, and I do not know how one could add a useful shelf without destroying the ergonomics.
can you tell us more about what he wants that shelf to do for him?
also, when it is folded, is he expecting 36"x18"x4" (everything folds inward and flat) or 60"x18"x6" (top, sides, and shelf form a parallelogram with 4 hinges) or does the RV have a cuddy that it needs to fit into?
Ivan
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
ER10 awaiting restoration
hmm, after thought: is this for a laptop or a desktop computer?
I have some old computer carts that were sized to hold a PC AT when you turned it up on its side. the monitor cantilevered on a post attached to the back edge and the keyboard stored on top. when you wanted to use the computer, you rolled it over to the desk and put the keyboard on the desk or pull-out. the opening is not wide enough for a modern tower chassis and it is overkill for a slimline, but...
if he wants the shelf to hold the computer, you could build a box that is sized (and ventilated) for his chassis and do the table work-surface as a drop-leaf.
we used to put lead bricks on the bottom shelf so that it wasn't so prone to tip over when we rolled it around. if you go this way, you'll want to provide some way for him to latch it to a wall when driving the RV.
I'll see if I can get a picture of one of these tomorrow, also.
Ivan
I have some old computer carts that were sized to hold a PC AT when you turned it up on its side. the monitor cantilevered on a post attached to the back edge and the keyboard stored on top. when you wanted to use the computer, you rolled it over to the desk and put the keyboard on the desk or pull-out. the opening is not wide enough for a modern tower chassis and it is overkill for a slimline, but...
if he wants the shelf to hold the computer, you could build a box that is sized (and ventilated) for his chassis and do the table work-surface as a drop-leaf.
we used to put lead bricks on the bottom shelf so that it wasn't so prone to tip over when we rolled it around. if you go this way, you'll want to provide some way for him to latch it to a wall when driving the RV.
I'll see if I can get a picture of one of these tomorrow, also.
Ivan
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
ER10 awaiting restoration
- cincinnati
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1172
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2007 6:40 pm
- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
I couldn't dig out the roll-around chassis box today, but it sounds like that one is not appropriate anyway.
the pictures I took of the table did not turn out very well.
as it stands, the table is 36"wx18"dx26.5"h including the casters. it is a good height for a keyboard since the chairs that I am using with it are a little short. I suspect that the table was originally used for an old-fashioned illustrator's typewriter in an executive suite (if it is as old as I think it is, you had to be a division chief or higher to be allowed wooden furniture back then). the welded metal end pieces and metal cross-braces are overkill for laptop use.
if the customer likes the top and 3 sides of a box concept, you could hinge the back directly to the underside of the top, put a vertical piece for one side piece long enough to clear the folded-up back and then attach the side piece with a hinge, and repeat that for the other side piece but make the attached part tall enough to clear both the folded-up back and other side piece. put cleats on the side pieces for the back to lock in to when it folds down (rare earth magnets are rather neat for that) and cleats for the shelf to hook into. if they don't want the back, you could use some folding table type braces (on the corners away for the knees) or you could put a backing board on the shelf (horizontal shelf with a vertical board at the back so things don't fall off) and use the vertical to provide extra bracing.
it seems to me that making the shelf part removable rather than folding really simplifies the design issues. it may also make it more compact to store when driving. if you go with the vertical backing board on the shelf, you can also hinge that joint so the shelf folds flat.
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the pictures I took of the table did not turn out very well.
as it stands, the table is 36"wx18"dx26.5"h including the casters. it is a good height for a keyboard since the chairs that I am using with it are a little short. I suspect that the table was originally used for an old-fashioned illustrator's typewriter in an executive suite (if it is as old as I think it is, you had to be a division chief or higher to be allowed wooden furniture back then). the welded metal end pieces and metal cross-braces are overkill for laptop use.
if the customer likes the top and 3 sides of a box concept, you could hinge the back directly to the underside of the top, put a vertical piece for one side piece long enough to clear the folded-up back and then attach the side piece with a hinge, and repeat that for the other side piece but make the attached part tall enough to clear both the folded-up back and other side piece. put cleats on the side pieces for the back to lock in to when it folds down (rare earth magnets are rather neat for that) and cleats for the shelf to hook into. if they don't want the back, you could use some folding table type braces (on the corners away for the knees) or you could put a backing board on the shelf (horizontal shelf with a vertical board at the back so things don't fall off) and use the vertical to provide extra bracing.
it seems to me that making the shelf part removable rather than folding really simplifies the design issues. it may also make it more compact to store when driving. if you go with the vertical backing board on the shelf, you can also hinge that joint so the shelf folds flat.
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Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
ER10 awaiting restoration
How about folding legs and removable shelf. Dado the legs for the slide in shelf. A raised edge on three sides of the top would nest the removable shelf for travel. You could add a strap, or two, with snap fasteners to hold the shelf. Or, you could build the folding legs in such a way that they would fold in on the removable shelf to hold it for travel.cincinnati wrote:Thanks,
The table would be for a laptop. The shelf will be used for???
I think he wants it to fold because it is right beside the passenger seat and he needs the extra room when traveling. He tends to go to one place and camp for many weeks at a time.
Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton