I finished some maple breadboard finger pulls with a Minwax honey oak stain, sealer and finish. I wasn't real happy with the results, as it appeared blochy, kind of like pine without a pre stain sealer. Now a couple of months later, the color and finish appears to be gone. Any suggestions on the staining of maple? Would a darker color of stain be better?
Bob
San Diego
Finishing maple
Moderator: admin
is it figured? check out these 2 videos on staining figured maple:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32- ... the-maple/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWCptCxNx4I
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32- ... the-maple/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWCptCxNx4I
JC
Hampden Twp, PA
Bought, restored and sold a 520 before I knew what I had (and should have kept) - Now I found religion and I'm working on restoring a 500 and a 10E.
Hampden Twp, PA
Bought, restored and sold a 520 before I knew what I had (and should have kept) - Now I found religion and I'm working on restoring a 500 and a 10E.
- Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 5834
- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
Having lived and died staining maple cabinets for my Master bath I have learned many lessons. The first with maple before you do anything give it a coat of shellac. Bullseye makes a shellac primer that is dewaxed (avail at Lowes and Home Depot) that is perfect for this.
The Shellac primer coat seems to prevent the blotchiness and seems to make the stain more uniform and easier to apply.
Another lesson I learned was to give each coat of finish plenty of drying time. I mean a day between coats. Even the shellac which dries almost instantly was better if left for a full day before I tried staining or applying a finish.
If you are using Minwax polystain (good luck) apply very very light coats allow them to completely dry and then apply the next. If you don't allow enough drying time the second coat will lift the first. If you apply any coat too heavy you will end up with streaks that are almost impossible to get out without stripping the wood down to nothing and starting over.
Ask me how I know? I played around with the finish on my cabinets for almost 6 weeks. I know I stipped everything off of them at least twice. Resanded and began again.
The Shellac primer coat seems to prevent the blotchiness and seems to make the stain more uniform and easier to apply.
Another lesson I learned was to give each coat of finish plenty of drying time. I mean a day between coats. Even the shellac which dries almost instantly was better if left for a full day before I tried staining or applying a finish.
If you are using Minwax polystain (good luck) apply very very light coats allow them to completely dry and then apply the next. If you don't allow enough drying time the second coat will lift the first. If you apply any coat too heavy you will end up with streaks that are almost impossible to get out without stripping the wood down to nothing and starting over.
Ask me how I know? I played around with the finish on my cabinets for almost 6 weeks. I know I stipped everything off of them at least twice. Resanded and began again.
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!