Chuck, I may have to try the belt sander for use with the Sharpening Jig.
Now I am coming up with another question regarding sharpening. I have always when sharpening with a grinder, even back in the day when grinders were foot crank powered, they always turned toward the item being sharpened, always on the down stroke of wheel.
Reading on the strip sander it says, cannot sharpen chisels using a power station, because rotation is wrong, must be used using on the quill end of power head. This puts rotation to the up stroke with the belt on the strip sander.
Am I loseing my mind with this sharpening thing or just missing something?
sharpening guide use
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I get it!!! Considering a recent goof I made, (the one about sanders - not another one) I understand why you asked the question. He! He!fjimp wrote:Chuck are you suggesting "Belt Sander" or "Strip Sander?" Jim

However, as previously said - I really meant the Belt Sander.
Two unique things about using the belt sander is the table is lower and you can stand directly next to the right side of the jig, while looking down on the operation.
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Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Bob, normally all SPTs are mounted on the left side of the ShopSmith and driven by the drive hub on the left side of the Headstock. Mounted on the left side of the MkV, the strip sander works great for sanding. The rotation of the headstock causes the belt to be pulled down through the worktable which works fine for sanding items.
When using the Strip Sander to sharpen Chisels, you need the belt to turn in the opposite direction, UP and into the top of the unit so that the abrasive is running from the heel-to-edge on the chisel. This requires you to mount the Strip Sander on the RIGHT side of the MkV, where the Tailstock for lathe operations normally mounts. You'll need to either take the 4-spline drive hub off the left side of the quill shaft and mount it on the right side to drive the Strip Sander in this mode, or (as I did) purchase a second 4-spline drive hub from SS for these instances.
On the Chisel Sharpening attachment for the Strip Sander is a yellow warning label warning you that the rotation of the belt MUST BE UP when using this attachment. Unfortunately, when I got mine the label was affixed to the attachment upside down
Called Linda at Customer Service and she fixed me up with a new label in return mail.
When using the Strip Sander to sharpen Chisels, you need the belt to turn in the opposite direction, UP and into the top of the unit so that the abrasive is running from the heel-to-edge on the chisel. This requires you to mount the Strip Sander on the RIGHT side of the MkV, where the Tailstock for lathe operations normally mounts. You'll need to either take the 4-spline drive hub off the left side of the quill shaft and mount it on the right side to drive the Strip Sander in this mode, or (as I did) purchase a second 4-spline drive hub from SS for these instances.
On the Chisel Sharpening attachment for the Strip Sander is a yellow warning label warning you that the rotation of the belt MUST BE UP when using this attachment. Unfortunately, when I got mine the label was affixed to the attachment upside down

ShopSmith MarkV-520 with Belt Sander, Jointer, Band Saw, Strip Sander, Scroll Saw and Biscuit Jointer SPTs and a DC-3300...
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Black Powder Shooter (love the smell of burning sulfur).
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Further discussion of grinding direction.
Grinding wheels - You are correct that they should be rotating toward(down) the tool rest. The wheel is an immovable object so to speak and considerable pressure may be pressed against it. The grinding will be from the upper edge toward the 'bottom' against the tool rest.
Strip sander - The belt motion needs to be AWAY(up) from the item being ground. The belt is thin and excessive pressure of the upper edge of the item being ground places the belt in danger of being cut if it WERE moving down into the upper edge. With the belt moving away(up) from the upper edge(the edge of the tool being sharpened) a different sharpening method is employed. The sharpened edge is created as the belt LEAVES the tool edge. The tool is secured in the holder(even when rotating the tool). The angle of the grind is controlled by the tool holder. The grinding is done slowly compared to the grinding wheel(less rapid removal of tool material). The waste material is expelled from the edge being sharpened.
Grinding wheels - You are correct that they should be rotating toward(down) the tool rest. The wheel is an immovable object so to speak and considerable pressure may be pressed against it. The grinding will be from the upper edge toward the 'bottom' against the tool rest.
Strip sander - The belt motion needs to be AWAY(up) from the item being ground. The belt is thin and excessive pressure of the upper edge of the item being ground places the belt in danger of being cut if it WERE moving down into the upper edge. With the belt moving away(up) from the upper edge(the edge of the tool being sharpened) a different sharpening method is employed. The sharpened edge is created as the belt LEAVES the tool edge. The tool is secured in the holder(even when rotating the tool). The angle of the grind is controlled by the tool holder. The grinding is done slowly compared to the grinding wheel(less rapid removal of tool material). The waste material is expelled from the edge being sharpened.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Tom, JPG, Chuck, thanks for advise on sharpening with the belt sander and the strip sander. You have all given me excellent answers to my deliema and will have to try some of this advise and make it work for me. Thanks again I appreciate the help.
I keep finding little windows on this forum, that I don't really know what they do. So sometimes I experiment. Probably shouldn't do that, I know in my shop it can get me into trouble.
Bayside Bob
Bayside Bob
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Hope your butt heals!;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange