Pen Turning

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:40 pm

navycop wrote:This brings me to the post "Staying on subject". How did we go from pen turning to bifocals??

Easy! Bifocals, even trifocals are a very necessary part of turning!:D At least for some of us. In fact they are needed for all woodworking!

mikelst · Post by **mikelst** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:15 pm

true dat...

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 11:34 pm

fjimp wrote:Interesting question. When I first added the mid range viewing ability to my glasses the optician explained the proper way is for the distance (like driving distance) be at the top as that makes for a wider range of field of vision. The mid range (for Computer work) is in the middle or below the distance placement as this is the normal progression far to closer items. The reading adjustment is at the bottom or in the third position. This has worked beautifully for me. I do a great deal of driving and like having the greater sized field at the top of my lenses be for distance viewing. The other two progressions also work very well. I am so thankful my glasses are arranged in that way. Prior to trifocals I changed my glasses numerous times daily when using the computer and felt my close vision was suffering in the bargain. As I write this I remember that the closer vision field was made a bit closer in the trifocals due to the creation of the mid range field which was a true blessing for reading. The only time I change them now is if I am out in the sun. Incidentally for sun glasses I always insist on polarized lenses. This offers a far superior visual experience when dealing with glare and also enables me to see below the surface of water when boating.

Unfortunately since the move to plastic lenses, the optical 'industry' has gone to predefined bi/trifocals. These areas are molded in and only the far vision is ground to prescription. Cost effective, but not effective for the wearer. Though far more expensive, ground safety GLASS type lenses can be ground as the wearer needs. This includes spacing and location(vertically) of each separate correction. The drawback is that the 'area' is all across the lense and an abrupt line separates the areas.

My driving sunglasses are mid(distance to dash) where a normal reading area is and the rest is far vision. Polarized as well! Again I take them off to read!

To the subject police, this seems a reasonable continuation to the branch off the tree we are currently on.

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:00 am

JPG40504 wrote:
To the subject police, this seems a reasonable continuation to the branch off the tree we are currently on.

Ah I keep learning "JPG" I think is trying to explain to this rather dull fellow (me) that he is the subject police?! I am I right or as usual incorrect and still confused?

As to the bifocal/trifocal wandering question. For this simple minded fellow it seems safety as it relates to being able to see what one is doing is closely related to any and all woodworking or Shopsmith service/repair operations.

As to the grinding and placements of sections of lenses. Prior to plastic lenses my Bifocals were ground into the glass in the appropriate areas. My safety glasses were trifocals, glass and the prisms were ground into the glass. Further for prisms to function appropriately requires they meet the dimension, shape and location within the lenses for them to accomplish the goal of being able to see clearly. As simple as this may sound I discovered by having an ophthalmologist prescribe incorrectly, just how frightening it can be to have the prisms configured incorrectly. Now let us return to pen turning. fjimp:eek: Disclamer.... If my attempt at humor is offensive I apologize. I am feeling a bit that we taketh ourselves far too seriously.

scottss · Post by **scottss** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 1:48 pm

Guys and gals what pen mandrel are you using and where did you get it.

tom_k/mo · Post by **tom_k/mo** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 1:51 pm

scottss wrote:Guys and gals what pen mandrel are you using and where did you get it.

I use THISone...

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 2:25 pm

I use one that came with a Jet pen turning kit and another that I think came from Woodcraft.
The one from Woodcraft was just a shaft and bushings while the one from the Jet kit had a #2 Morse taper on it. If you happen to have one with the #2 Morse taper, the tapered section can be removed for use on a SS.
Just double nut the threaded (with hex nuts) end where the brass thumb wheel goes and hold the nut in a vice and you will be able to unthread the Morse taper end to use the mandrel in the SS drill chuck

mikelst · Post by **mikelst** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 3:59 pm

I'm using the same one Tom is.
Pennstateind shopsmith version.
I got the starter kit to start.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 4:06 pm

mikelst wrote:I got the starter kit to start.

GOOD thing ya did knot get the ending kit to start.

rkh2 · Post by **rkh2** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:08 pm

I use the same mandrel that Tom & Mike mentioned from Penn State and use my original gouge which came with my SS for roughing my square blanks and a oval skew from Sorby for finishing my blanks. If I am working an acrylic blank which usually is already rounded, then I just use the skew until I get it down to the sanding size. Just finished a olivewood pen & pencil set and used the micro mesh dry sanding method(1500 to 12000 grade) after using abrasive roll sanding from 150 grit to 600. This is a picture of them.[ATTACH]6146[/ATTACH]