Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
Ed in Tampa wrote:I still wish someone would answer my question.
Why do some insist that it is better to pay more than twice the cost of two single routers by buying one of these two base kits?
Also why would you want to mount a fix base router in a router table when you could mount a plunge router there instead?
I don't understand it.
Look at the Dewalt 618PK you can actually buy two 618 plunge routers for the same price or a little more than the 618PK kit that comes with one motor and two bases one fixed and one plunge. With the two separate routers you get two plunger bases and two motors.
Am I missing something????????
Hi Ed,
Who is doing this insisting? I do know that I already have the routers that I will probably have for a very long time. They are Craftsman (knot my favorite), and Porter Cable (these I am very happy with). I like my fixed bases, but if I ever do buy an additional router, you can bet it will be a plunge router!
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
Ed in Tampa wrote:I still wish someone would answer my question.
Why do some insist that it is better to pay more than twice the cost of two single routers by buying one of these two base kits?
Also why would you want to mount a fix base router in a router table when you could mount a plunge router there instead?
I don't understand it.
Look at the Dewalt 618PK you can actually buy two 618 plunge routers for the same price or a little more than the 618PK kit that comes with one motor and two bases one fixed and one plunge. With the two separate routers you get two plunger bases and two motors.
Am I missing something????????
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
BTW some of these routers had the famous AHA feature. (auto height adjust)... and no that is not a good thing.
Ed
OK guys, I know you'll ALL be green with envy with my recent score so just remember, keep a better eye on your local Craigslist as I did!!
Here's my $8.50, 3/4hp beast in all her glory. Don't know if she has the "AHA" feature discussed here but even if she does, it seems it would be an easy fix with some rubber shim stock in between the outside locking collar and motor body.
. If you want to visually inspect router more closely, gohereandhere. Maximize the window and click on the image to enlarge it.
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I understand the desire to have router table setups remain constant.
I also understand the desire to have multiple setups.
What I don't understand is using separate bases.
At one time fixed base bases kept the center line of the router more (key word)constant than plunge routers but both varied to some degree. However with improvements in the plunge mechanisms most high quality plunge routers are capable of going through their full range of depth adjustment without significantly effecting the routers center point. However that is not true for fixed based bases. There is still a fair degree of movement, the thinking on this is once the depth is set it won't change so there is no real need to guard against center movement change in the depth adjustment.
Also tests by independants have shown that each base will center the router motor a tiny bit different than another base. Using multiple motors with multiple bases compound the problem.
To me to have router setups remain constant (as in a router table) would be to mount a high quality plunge router and center it. Since neither the router motor or the base will ever change or be moved the setup should remain constant. Each table setup would remain constant no change.
Using a fixed base router for hand held routing also mystifies me. Again at one time there was movement in the plunge mechanism, but in today's routers it has been eliminated. So my question remains why use a fixed base router.
I don't think that question has been answered.
Personally I think ad hype has overuled our critical thinking and manufactures have learned if they package multiple base single motor routers in a eye catching way they can sell them for nearly same or more that two separate routers with their own bases.
mickyd wrote:OK guys, I know ALL you'll all be green with envy with my recent score so just remember, keep a better eye on your local Craigslist as I did!!
Here's my $8.50, 3/4hp beast in all her glory. Don't know if she has the "AHA" feature discussed here but even if she does, it seems it would be an easy fix with some rubber shim stock in between the outside locking collar and motor body.
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Does the round brownish looking thing allow movement of the '1/32" scale' up/down? What is under the raised nub in the second pix?(anti-rotation pin?) It seems to be a newer version of my movable index(do not know it they were referred to as AHA, but mine is not very useful/accurate.
How is the body raised and lowered into the base?
I am surprised the 'clamp' is not fatigued!
You can turn a replacement knob on the greenie I . . . . . . . . If you can bear to get wood debris on it.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:Does the round brownish looking thing allow movement of the '1/32" scale' up/down? If your looking directly above the scale, the answer is NO. That's just a phil pan machine screw that attach's the scale to the body. If looking somewhere else, direct me better. What is under the raised nub in the second pix?(anti-rotation pin?) I'll have to look and see tonight. It seems to be a newer version of my movable index(do not know it they were referred to as AHA, but mine is not very useful/accurate.
How is the body raised and lowered into the base? In the picture showing the back, you see a brown thumb screw in front of the right handle. You loosen that and it releases the clamping pressure.
I am surprised the 'clamp' is not fatigued! Hopefully it isn't. It will be all over for the router when it does I believe. I will lose my investment.
You can turn a replacement knob on the greenie I . . . . . . . . If you can bear to get wood debris on it.I was planning on doing that. (and....to let you know..... she already has seen debris, just plain old construction debris...nothing worth posting. see exhibit for proof and NO comments about my blade!!!)
If you want to visually inspect router more closely, gohereandhere. Maximize the window and click on the image to enlarge it.
Reible first let me apolgize if I implied you were caught up in ad hype, while I think we all are from time to time I didn't mean to suggest that that was the case with you.
You make some valid points on the use of fixed base over plunge but to me a properly adjusted plunge router feels better to me than fixed based units. Personal preferrence I guess.
As to the test it was a few years back, however a few thousandths one way and few thousandths another add up and can really show up on multi router projects. I know in my case they do.
I will readlly admit you probably have more expertise than me on routers simply because I really don't use mine all that often. Most of my work is remodeling. I use my routers for dado, edging and plowing out hinges.
I do know when I do cabinet or moulding work I set my router up in the table and never change it until ALL the cabinet/moulding work is done. I have had too many problems in the past with my router being just slightly off center. My experience not necessarily something that happens to everyone.
In my case I would never buy a multi base package, having had two that I returned because they simply didn't perform the way I thought they would. I have never tried the PC package though I really like PC routers.
My reccomendation to someone starting out with a router is to buy a "good" plunge router. One that is easy for you to operate the plunge mech. (note plunge router plunge lock mechanisms work differently. On some the normal position is for unlocked plunge and you must move the lever to lock the depth. On others they are locked and you must move the lever to unlock and change the depth) Also some routers come with heavy plunge springs that you must overcome to push the bit deeper on others the spring is adjusted so the motor is almost floating and a slight touch raises or lowers the cutter.
The biggest thing I look for is bit visibility, and easy to change bits. Many have shields that must be removed to get near to the bit to make changes and some have non see through bases.
If I was buying a router for table the only thing I would buy would be a plunge router or just a motor to go into the after market lift.
Hey, Mike! Nice haul on the router. I just hope it is worth what you paid.
Ed & Ed,
I'm sure that, in your exuberance to discuss (argue?) your individual points/beliefs about routers, you don't realize that you have completely ignored the guy who started this thread and have totally hijacked it. Shame on you!
Shame on you!
