Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10
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- mickyd
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[quote="etc92guy"]I think this really works. And what works about it is the headstock color ties in with the aluminum table.
This would probably work with burgundy too. ]
Burgundy with silver headstock....
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[ATTACH]6519[/ATTACH]..[ATTACH]6526[/ATTACH]
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I think that I am really starting to feel the "Greenie" version that heathicus proposed (with the Verde green color!!!)
This would probably work with burgundy too. ]
Burgundy with silver headstock....
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[ATTACH]6519[/ATTACH]..[ATTACH]6526[/ATTACH]
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I think that I am really starting to feel the "Greenie" version that heathicus proposed (with the Verde green color!!!)
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- burgundy silver.jpg (36.68 KiB) Viewed 5400 times
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- Greenie ER 500.jpg (34.83 KiB) Viewed 5394 times
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
- robinson46176
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I REALLY like that green. 
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
- JPG
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This like I remember!
[ATTACH]6527[/ATTACH]
Notice the motor is grayer(less blue).
[ATTACH]6527[/ATTACH]
Notice the motor is grayer(less blue).
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- 10er hs color.jpg (28.67 KiB) Viewed 5270 times
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- mickyd
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Finsih recipe and procedure - Tung oil / gloss spar urethane application method
I'm adding coats to my bench boards from the finish recipe Nick suggested of 1C tung oil, 2T gloss spar urethane. I'm up to 5 coats, wiping on each with a folded cloth.
My primary task is to make sure the wood is sealed. The first coat I applied had high gloss areas where it didn'tsoak in, on knots and growth ring lines, and then other areas that were not glossy at all since the wood was absorbing the finish. (This is 24 hrs after application). This told me the I should expect the final finish to be glossy. I wasn't' really sure since I didn't know how the high amount of tung oil would effect the measly 2T of urethane.
The following 3 coats acted the same. FYI - In between coats, I'm doing a scratch only sanding with 220 grit on a finishing sander followed up with a compressed air blow down (especially in the knots which I haven't filled with the epoxy yet) followed up by a wipe down with a mineral spirits soaked cotton rag. The 5th coat that I applied last night is almost entirely glossy. My guess is one or two more to go and it will be uniformly glossy, accomplishing my primary task.
Now I have to decide when to stop!!!:eek: The finish is just starting to develop some depth. I'm now having visions of the antique wooden boats with the 60+ coats of spar varnish applied!!! I know you none cosmetic woodworking guys are shaking your heads saying "Please make some sawdust soon!!!". Just had to share my thoughts. Time will tell what direction I'll take!
My primary task is to make sure the wood is sealed. The first coat I applied had high gloss areas where it didn'tsoak in, on knots and growth ring lines, and then other areas that were not glossy at all since the wood was absorbing the finish. (This is 24 hrs after application). This told me the I should expect the final finish to be glossy. I wasn't' really sure since I didn't know how the high amount of tung oil would effect the measly 2T of urethane.
The following 3 coats acted the same. FYI - In between coats, I'm doing a scratch only sanding with 220 grit on a finishing sander followed up with a compressed air blow down (especially in the knots which I haven't filled with the epoxy yet) followed up by a wipe down with a mineral spirits soaked cotton rag. The 5th coat that I applied last night is almost entirely glossy. My guess is one or two more to go and it will be uniformly glossy, accomplishing my primary task.
Now I have to decide when to stop!!!:eek: The finish is just starting to develop some depth. I'm now having visions of the antique wooden boats with the 60+ coats of spar varnish applied!!! I know you none cosmetic woodworking guys are shaking your heads saying "Please make some sawdust soon!!!". Just had to share my thoughts. Time will tell what direction I'll take!
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
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osx-addict
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Hmm.. Your comments reminded me that a local wood finisher guy likes to call me every year to see if I can hand him some money to come over and reapply a clear coat to my front doors.. I turned him down this year.. I'll have to admit that after doing some coating in my kitchen, I'm tempted to do the regular finish maintenance on my own..
MickeyD -- please do make sure you put these machines thru their paces soon! By the way, did you see the Craigslist ad for someone in Oceanside selling a bunch of brand-new (still boxed) SS stuff for "best-offer" prices? Too bad I don't have some extra $$ floating around!!!
MickeyD -- please do make sure you put these machines thru their paces soon! By the way, did you see the Craigslist ad for someone in Oceanside selling a bunch of brand-new (still boxed) SS stuff for "best-offer" prices? Too bad I don't have some extra $$ floating around!!!
Rick
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
- mickyd
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I've stopped looking at craigslist altogether, primarily because of the fear of what I might see, like the ad you mention. I mean I already have my next project, (operation code name "pinkie") hiding under my boat!!osx-addict wrote:Hmm.. Your comments reminded me that a local wood finisher guy likes to call me every year to see if I can hand him some money to come over and reapply a clear coat to my front doors.. I turned him down this year.. I'll have to admit that after doing some coating in my kitchen, I'm tempted to do the regular finish maintenance on my own..![]()
MickeyD -- please do make sure you put these machines thru their paces soon! By the way, did you see the Craigslist ad for someone in Oceanside selling a bunch of brand-new (still boxed) SS stuff for "best-offer" prices? Too bad I don't have some extra $$ floating around!!!
You know that last part of your forum name......I am afraid that I might be developing the ShopSmith version of it. I need to focus on what I have vs. what I could have, you know what I mean. However, I do THANK YOU for bringing the ad to my attention. Thanks for the pain!!
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego