Dremel vs Sears vs multimaster

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

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still_waters_43
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Post by still_waters_43 »

a1gutterman wrote:Do you think you will get it back?:rolleyes: At least you know what you can get him for Christmas!:D
Oh I hear you Tim! :p well so far he has been good about returning things.

My son-in-law however is the blackhole of borrowing, I loan him the things I was planning on replacing. :D
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

still_waters_43 wrote:Oh I hear you Tim! :p well so far he has been good about returning things.

My son-in-law however is the blackhole of borrowing, I loan him the things I was planning on replacing. :D
That 's funny!!!
Tim

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paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

dusty wrote:Does that depend on what was used to nail the tack strip to the concrete floor?

One difference between the various brands is the blades available and their cost. Fein has the most accessories and they cost the most, some brands share blades with other brands and some have adapters to use other brand blades. What you need to do is find the blade you need and then pick a unit that will accept that blade. Every brand has most of the standard blades (sanding, cutoff, tile...) but only Fein has virtually all of them.

If the strip was nailed it may be easiest to just patch the divots, but if you don't want to do that I would use the cutoff blade to get rid of as much wood as possible and expose the nail head, then clip or cut it off and then use the carbide sanding disk to level the head with the concrete.
Paul Cohen
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A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

I would use a reciprocating saw to remove the tack strips before I messed with one of these saws. That nails of those tack strips are high carbon tough steel. I think one of those vibrating saw blades would take a while to get through.

On the other hand you can get a bimetal saw blade for a recip saw and slice right through them.
Ed in Tampa
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markap
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Post by markap »

Ed in Tampa wrote:I would use a reciprocating saw to remove the tack strips before I messed with one of these saws. That nails of those tack strips are high carbon tough steel. I think one of those vibrating saw blades would take a while to get through.

On the other hand you can get a bimetal saw blade for a recip saw and slice right through them.
This is probably what I'll have to do. The wooden sections of the strips are gone leaving these very sturdy nails ever 3 or 4 inches around the perimeter of the room. Wasn't sure the multi tools had the power to cut through these without spending a lot of time on each of a great many nails.
SS MV 520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, belt sander, mortise unit, biscut jointer, speed reducer, tool rest upgrade, sliding cross cut table, DC3300
bpeterson
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Dremel

Post by bpeterson »

I have a Dremel Multi-Max and I used it to remodel a bathroom and some small project in the garage and I am very happy with it. I have not used any of the others but I have seen them used and I would say I am just as happy if not happer with the Dremel. The blades are not to expensive in my opinion.
BP
psf513
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Dremel vs Fein vs Craftsman

Post by psf513 »

With the cordless tools, what is the experience with battery life? I'd like to buy one but just not sure if batteries will last or will I be left high and dry in the middle of a job?

THANKS
Pete

1990 500 w/ band saw, jointer, scroll saw, dust collector, androuter table
sswoodworker48
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Dremel

Post by sswoodworker48 »

I removed a hardwood floor using the Dremel Multimaster. I was reinstalling it in another room so needed to not destroy the tongues. The Dremel metal cutting blade slid underneath and clipped the 2" staples at the floor with little effort. I also used it for shortening the trimwork around doors in the room the floor went back down in. Works like a charm.

The original project was a great excuse for a new tool but at $99 is a great addition to the arsenal. :)
Rick
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510, 520, belt sander, strip sander, jointer, scroll saw, band saw, dust collector, OPR, Flatmaster sander.
cocacola1012
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Post by cocacola1012 »

curiousgeorge wrote:Yep! I used the Harbor Freight version to replace some tiles on my bathroom floor. It worked great for removing the grout as well as smoothing off after removing the old tile.
I have some broken tiles in my kitchen and foyer. Last year I took up tile in the bathroom. I broke it loose with a hammer and chisel. Then I used an air hammer thingy to get the thinset up. This was noisey and dusty. Was your way dusty and noisey?
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

cocacola1012 wrote:I have some broken tiles in my kitchen and foyer. Last year I took up tile in the bathroom. I broke it loose with a hammer and chisel. Then I used an air hammer thingy to get the thinset up. This was noisey and dusty. Was your way dusty and noisey?

If your doing a large area is it going to dusty and noisey. If your just replacing a few tiles there are many ways to do it without all the dust and noise.
I had 700+ sq ft of tile removed in October and we are still finding tiny tiny pieces of tile. Most interesting place was sliver stuck in a curtain in a room that did not have tile. How it got there I have no idea.

Way we removed our tile was using a Bosch hammer drill that had a setting for hammer only (not rotatation of the bit). The unit is about 8-10 lbs and did an excellent job.
Ed in Tampa
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