Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

[bucksaw]

Mike,

I have followed this thread several times and I don't know if I have kept up adequately with all the posts. I would really like to see the final product. I've made some notes and plan on working on mine just as soon as the temp get above 50 degrees again. Trying to find paste floor wax is a chore around here. When I clean a section or component, I plan to wax it immediately and then move on to the next part. But, it must get warmer around here before the wax will work, I think. That's going to give me time to find the floor wax. I'll try an old fashioned grocery store tomorrow. I think that'll be a winner. Anyway, didn't meant to get into all my stuff. Just wanted to say thanks for your post and clear and methodical documentation. It's a great job and I have learned more from your process than I have learned from the book. I'll keep following, my friend.

the old swampgator in FL:)

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[JPG]

The proper wax is NOT either Finishing wax(found in finish/paint departments) nor FLOOR WAX.

You want the slickness of the ORIGINAL! It was modified to reduce its 'slipperiness' for use on floors(non-skid). The finishing wax is thicker.

The original Johnson Paste Wax will work at low temperatures. It is fairly low viscosity(relatively speaking).

It is a Yellow can with a red diagonal stripe. home depot carries it! They also carry the 'finishing wax' so make sure the words 'The Original Formula' appears on the can.

The UPC code is 4650000202.

[mickyd]

Eight days after realizing my floating sheave 'she not be a floatin', the problem IS behind me now. My last plan was to take it to a shop and have them press it off using a hydraulic press. Well, it was meant to be that that plan fell into the toilet because I was able to do it myself and pocket the $20 the shop was going to charge. PLUS, I got to see first hand how the penetrating oil and 'patience thing' SDSSmith recommended worked out. I truly had run out of patience. zarek shared his similar experience along with some great photos of his speed changer and mentioned the use of PB Blaster. First time I had ever heard of it and ironically, the next day when I was showing the frozen assembly to a contractor that works for my company, he asked if I tried PB Blaster on it. How coincidental is that?? Anyway, he had a can in his truck and let me borrow it for day. Sprayed it on several times, tapping the center shaft from both directions firmly with a hard nylon mallet each time I sprayed. Today I decided to go for it.....full force.

These were my tools of destruction.
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I staged the assembly on two stacked 1-1/4" hex nuts against the outer sheave and put it on the cement floor (it's shown my desk but you get the point) and a 9/16" hex cap screw into the id of the bronze bushing.
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From there, several very SHARP blows with the nylon hammer on the head of the hex cap screw. Then, the sound changed, similar to when I broke the gauge collar!! Immediately looked closely and saw that the pulleys moved . Continued rapping and the center shaft kept moving until it was flush with the lip on the floating sheave. From there, I used the long 1/2" hex cap screw as a punch until the shaft was separated.
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SUCCESS!!
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Tonights project is to get everything cleaned up and polished smooth. What can go wrong with that???

Thanks all for keeping the gray matter exploring and open. It helped me manage the urge to smash the thing!!

p.s. Can't say with any absolute certainty that the PB Blaster did the trick but for $3.98 per can at Home Depot, I'll add some to my collection and send my Kroil to the chemical grave yard. Actually, I should see if they will accept the return. It does have a money back gaurentee if not satisfied. Plus, maybe they would want to quality control check it to see if it is indeed bad.

[bluekayak]

I was really hoping to see something like this tonight. I've been busy the last few days and have not had a chance to check the forum. This was the first thread I wanted to see.

Great job.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

[mickyd]

I was really hoping to see something like this tonight. I've been busy the last few days and have not had a chance to check the forum. This was the first thread I wanted to see.

Great job.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

Thanks Jerry. And good news to boot!! I too have been flat out the past few days with very little forum time. (this place can get addicting!!)

[dlbristol]

GOOD NEWS! "She'll be a floaten soon enough" I don't think I have the patience to do that kind of thing, but I am getting better. There was a time when I could not have even watched you do it.

[mickyd]

The frozen floating sheave.....she now be a floatin'!!!

The axle surface that the floating sheave rides on and the end sheave counterbore were loaded with red rust. Even though the end sheave is made of aluminum, it's counterbore was crusted with red rust. I've concluded that the rust came from rusty water coming off the steel axle surface into the counterbore over a LONG period of time. Remember, this beast lived outside, uncovered. Granted, San Diego doesn't get a lot of rain but there is plenty of daily morning dew.
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First step was to get the axle surface polished up. I mounted it on a piece of threaded rod with washers on each end and nut to hold it. With the Greenie on low speed, I started conservatively using green scotchbrite which did little. Tried using 400 grit sandpaper, nothing. Decided to break out the metal file. With very light pressure, I traversed the surface as it was rotating at low speed and cleaned it up. I would frequently slide the floating sheave onto the axle surface as my gage for determining my progress. I wanted as little material removed as possible. The file removed the oxidation, the set screw raised witness marks, and all other funky unknown surface protrusion flaws. After the file, I went though progressive sandpaper polishing using 150, 220, 400, 600, and finally finishing up with 1000 grit.
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Cleaned the inside of the end sheave counterbore and it's mating male surface on the floating sheave with a small steel wire wheel on a Dremel tool. I would have used brass wire wheel if I had one. The steel left some surface scratches but the surface was quite pitted from the oxidation anyway so it was no big deal.
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Here's the final product. I used a light machine oil on the shaft surface prior to assembly. The center sheave now floats like it's on glass rails!!!

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PLEASE NOTE.... Use the speed changer setup instruction procedure found in the "Maintenance and Repair" section of this thread to properly set up reassemble and align the end pulley faces back to the origianal factory setting. This is a must.

[SDSSmith]

Well done, Grasshopper,

Now you need to go over to the Yahoo site to get the specs on proper positioning of the out board flanges. Yours appear in the picture to be too close together.

[mickyd]

Well done, Grasshopper,

Now you need to go over to the Yahoo site to get the specs on proper positioning of the out board flanges. Yours appear in the picture to be too close together.

Roger......senior grasshopper. I just temporarily reassembled it for the photo shoot. I already have the assembly spec that you referenced. Wasn't even aware of that until Bill Mayo advised me about a week ago. I'll post details of that process for later generations to follow.

[SDSSmith]

Roger......senior grasshopper. I just temporarily reassembled it for the photo shoot. I already have the assembly spec that you referenced. Wasn't even aware of that until Bill Mayo advised me about a week ago. I'll post details of that process for later generations to follow.

I am sure you meantseñor not senior.]