Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

[mickyd]

I am sure you meantse&#241]

I guess I am the only one that knows whether or not that assumption is accurate, huh?

[heathicus]

If PB Blaster worked better tthan Kroil, then you definitely have a bad can of Kroil! On maybe it's California and their crazy regulations and Kroil has to change their formula?

[swampgator]

Thank you for clairfying about the waxes. Amazing, the big box stores seem to stock items which appeal to the area in which they operate. There are 3 Home Depot's here and two of them don't carry it. I'll check the other one next week. I did my ASSuming again. I assumed that the paste wax was the same wax I have used on my hardwood floors for years. Silly me. Thanks again for this clarification.

the old swampgator

[mickyd]

I go into this weekend with what I pray will be my last task involving self-torture. It involves removing the two snapped screws on the worktable that are used to hold the table insert in place.
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The "correct fix" it to drill out the broken fastener and use a thread chasing tap (aka thread cleaning tap) to clean out the old threads that remain in the hole thus exposing the original threaded hole. Since I don't have thread chasing taps, I'll use a standard thread cutting tap. From a purist standpoint, a threaded hole should only have a thread cutting tap run through it ONCE. Running it through more than that cuts and removes additional material that can compromise the pullout / stripping force of the hole. Since this application is only to hold a table insert in place, it doesn't matter!!! It ain't rocket science.


For those following my previous snapped screw adventures first shown in this post, the problem I had when originally starting the pilot hole was getting the pilot hole centered. I had eyeballed the center...quite accurately I thought. If the pilot hole isn't centered darn near perfect, running the tap through gets really funky since it will be cutting new threads on one side and leaving old fastener material in the other side while cutting new threads into the left over fastener material.

The second attempt used the geometry method shown in this thread which resulted in pretty good hole placement as shown in this post but the method was crazy time consuming.

This time to find the center, I am going to use the hinge bit drill set that a contractor told me about. They're designed for use when drilling door hinge holes. For them to work, they need to pickup a countersunk hole to get a center referenced correctly. Since the table insert has countersunk holes, it should work fine. I'm afraid however that there might be way too much slop in the table insert though hole and it may require some brain work / mods prior to drilling. We'll see. I picked up a set of 3 hinge bit drills at Harbor Freight for $5.99. (awesome price as usual). These things can be VERY pricey elsewhere.....$10 each. If they last me long enough to get these two holes done, they will have paid for themselves. If not, they'll get returned.
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Wish me luck.....I'm due for a slam dunker sometimes here.

I just thought of this. The threaded holes in the worktable that are used to mount the table insert are left of center (liberals / progressives). Do they have to be for any application reason?? If not, if I run into issues drilling out and re-tapping the original holes, I could always just put in new holes that are on the right of center (effectively turning them into conservatives) and just flip the table insert 180 degree.

[------------------------]

Hey Mike!
ER 56112 has both sets of holes pre-drilled, while CR 5010 only has one set of holes. I would think to put a little Liquid Wrench on them and then heat the table up at the broken screw and drill. That aluminum should expand pretty quick, I would be suprised if they didn't spin right out when you drilled them.
Mark

[zarek]

Nice work on the speedchanger Mike, with all that rust it's no wonder it was so hard to get apart. I'm glad you liked the PB Blaster, I only found out about it around five years ago. Previous to using the PB I had used Kroil in my work as an airplane mechanic at United in San Francisco. I had pretty much equal results with both of them. I can't even begin to guess at how many broken screws I've removed over the years. They get easier the more you do. I have found that a good centered hole, penetrating oil, and an easy out usually suffice. Once you drill the center of the bad fastener out it almost always becomes looser in the hole. It's as if the tension holding it in is relieved. If the easy out removes the fastener at that point there is no need for a tap at all. If somehow the holes get screwed up in the table you could have them fill welded, or install heli-coils. You've got lots of options.
Pat

[mickyd]

Hey Mike!
ER 56112 has both sets of holes pre-drilled, while CR 5010 only has one set of holes. I would think to put a little Liquid Wrench on them and then heat the table up at the broken screw and drill. That aluminum should expand pretty quick, I would be suprised if they didn't spin right out when you drilled them.
Mark

I had to laugh Mark where I read "....I would be surprised if they didn't spin right out....". Boy would that be a hoot!! When I used heat earlier, (prior to the heads getting snapped off) I found that the aluminum dissipates / conducts the heat so rapidly that it is almost impossible to do effective localized heating. It reminded me of the trick you can do where you drape a dollar tightly over a piece of copper tubing and put a propane touch to the bill. It won't even scorch the bill, never mind burn it. The copper pulls the heat away sooooo quickly. Well, the aluminum kind of acts the same way.

Interesting that one of your twi ER's has the twin set of threaded holes. I wonder why??? Manufacturing normally doesn't perform operations for no reason. Hopefully someone can shed some light here.

[JPG]

I Noticed the multiple set screw tracks! Hopefully you will add only one new set!
'Somebody' was not following earlier posts(heat)!!!!!

Be sure to inform us how well the drill bits(intended to be making pilot holes in wood) work on steel screw remnants. I Would use them to locate only(while still sorta sharp) and drill through with good quality bits(progressive diameters).

[mickyd]

I Noticed the multiple set screw tracks! Hopefully you will add only one new set!
'Somebody' was not following earlier posts(heat)!!!!!

Be sure to inform us how well the drill bits(intended to be making pilot holes in wood) work on steel screw remnants. I Would use them to locate only(while still sorta sharp) and drill through with good quality bits(progressive diameters).

Are you addressing the first 3 sentences to me? If so, 'no entiendo' either one of them.

Drill bits in hinge bit set are standard replaceable high speed steel bits. They are for use on wood, metal, and plastic.

[a1gutterman]

Are you addressing the first 3 sentences to me? If so, 'no entiendo' either one of them.

Drill bits in hinge bit set are standard replaceable high speed steel bits. They are for use on wood, metal, and plastic.

I agree completely!