Headstock Lubrication - '79 Mark V

damagi · Post by **damagi** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 7:26 pm

Picked up a used shopsmith. I watched all the sawdust session videos and went through the process of cleaning everything. I just want to double check to make sure that I am doing the necessary lubrication before I start to use it.

Quill assembly - 30w Motor oil on the shaft and wax on the teeth
Motor shaft - 3-in-1 oil
Idler shaft - 3-in-1 oil
Speed changer worm gear - grease

Way tubes - Paste wax

Is that correct?

mbcabinetmaker · Post by **mbcabinetmaker** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 7:48 pm

damagi

Welcome to the forum. You are good on the lube but a lot of us use turbine oil instead of the 3 and 1 or 30 wt, however I believe the process of routine oiling and waxing is more important than the type of oil. Johnson's original wax is the one to use.

Glad to have you join.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:57 pm

A problem with grease is that saw dust sticks to it and cakes up. Graphite is a worthwhile 'choice' for the geared parts and the quill. It needs to be 'replenished' more often however.

bffulgham · Post by **bffulgham** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:55 am

Do you folks have an opinion about using The Dry Lube from Blasteras an option for lubing the areas where we would normally use graphite?

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:32 am

bffulgham wrote:Do you folks have an opinion about using The Dry Lube from Blasteras an option for lubing the areas where we would normally use graphite?

Try it and let us know. I use a similar product LPS Force-842 Dry Moly Lubricant from http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/pro ... ductid=148 in place of graphite. More costly than the Dry Lube. I will look for a can and see how it works. Thanks. I find really light coats are needed as it can run and dries fairly hard. I use it on items that have rusted after I wire brush them and it holds up fairly well. It leaves a nice metalic looking finish on the metal. I use it on the Speed Control Assembly parts. When I use it on the quill housing, I have to buff the housing to make it fit again. Also, I use it on the quill advance gear and quill teeth.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:20 pm

I'll still favor grease on my pork chop/worm gear location. Yes it could accumulate a bunch of sawdust, however as I lube my headstock monthly, no sawdust accumulates. It is a simple matter to wipe off the excess grease and any dirt with it -- then apply a little new grease with a finger tip.

A month in my shop is equivalent to about 10 hrs of running time.

P.S. I've never found other than very little sawdust inside my headstock. The 'dirt' inside my headstock comes from the drive belt.

Turning creates the most sawdust that falls onto the headstock.

bffulgham · Post by **bffulgham** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:42 pm

billmayo wrote:Try it and let us know. I use a similar product LPS Force-842 Dry Moly Lubricant from http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/pro ... ductid=148 in place of graphite. More costly than the Dry Lube. I will look for a can and see how it works. Thanks. I find really light coats are needed as it can run and dries fairly hard. I use it on items that have rusted after I wire brush them and it holds up fairly well. It leaves a nice metalic looking finish on the metal. I use it on the Speed Control Assembly parts. When I use it on the quill housing, I have to buff the housing to make it fit again. Also, I use it on the quill advance gear and quill teeth.

I took the opportunity to use the Dry Lube on a couple of the places where graphite is normally used. It has a very thin, quick drying carrier and leaves a film that looks a lot like graphite. Seems like it is going to be OK. The only issue I have with it is the typical over-spray, but, that's a side effect of any aerosol in my experience.

bffulgham · Post by **bffulgham** » Sat Oct 08, 2011 6:57 pm

I did a clean and lube job on the SS today and thought I would revive this thread for a bit.

I've been using The Dry Lube from Blasterin select spots for the last year or so, and have been happy with it as a substitute for graphite. I've also been using it on the speed control area with good results as well.

I recently found a Blaster product I think I'm going to like even better on the "pork chop". The Garage Door Lube. It is silicone based, so keep it off surfaces where it can rub off on your wood.

Info from the above link :[INDENT]A unique formulated lubricant which is a suitable replacement for grease, specially designed for the commercial and residential roller doors

[/INDENT]Works like a charm on squeaky garage door rollers as well:rolleyes:

athomas01 · Post by **athomas01** » Sun Oct 09, 2011 4:47 am

damagi wrote:Picked up a used shopsmith. I watched all the sawdust session videos and went through the process of cleaning everything. I just want to double check to make sure that I am doing the necessary lubrication before I start to use it.

Quill assembly - 30w Motor oil on the shaft and wax on the teeth
Motor shaft - 3-in-1 oil
Idler shaft - 3-in-1 oil
Speed changer worm gear - grease

Way tubes - Paste wax

Is that correct?

Where is the "necessary lubrication" sawdust video???

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Oct 09, 2011 6:48 am

athomas01 wrote:Where is the "necessary lubrication" sawdust video???

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS111/SS111_Mark_V_Maintenance.htm