Dial Indicator

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:54 am

I suspect that SS gets the dial indicator from iGaging in that I have purchased several dial indicator tip sets from Incramental Tools that come in the same package as the the tips sent with the SS dial indicator. The less expensive dial indicators from Enco or even HF have served my needs with the SS. For me measuring devices are designed to get you close and the dial indicator just gets you a little closer to the desired cut point.
ldh

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:22 am

Howdy,

Coincidence. Today I used the dial indicator to check the blade, adjust the bed and blade parallel alignment, etc. It is really simple to use and provides a nice degree of accuracy. Some folks may think it is over kill, but I liked using it. What would be helpful is knowing how much runout a blade can have and how much a bed can be off in alignment. I found it did wobble in the T tracks a bit, and there was no apparent way to tighten it. That made measurements a bit tedious. I think I'll look for a better T track solution, but keep the dial indicator.

If you want to fill the gap between the bar and miter slot, you could use an appropriately sized feeler gauge behind the bar.

Another way to "fill" the gap is to use a center punch on the side of the bar. Simply tap/strike with a hammer the punch until you raise a "dimple" at several points along the edge of the bar. Put dimples about an inch apart for starters. The harder you hit the punch, the larger the dimple. You may have to do that on both sides of the bar depending on how wide the gap is. You'll also need to use a file to smooth out any rough/sharp surface that may have been created on the sides of the bar, otherwise you might wear the sides of the miter gauge slot, especially since the table is soft aluminum.

Art in Western Penna

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Thu Jan 21, 2010 1:14 pm

friscomike wrote:Howdy,

Coincidence. Today I used the dial indicator to check the blade, adjust the bed and blade parallel alignment, etc. It is really simple to use and provides a nice degree of accuracy. Some folks may think it is over kill, but I liked using it. What would be helpful is knowing how much runout a blade can have and how much a bed can be off in alignment. I found it did wobble in the T tracks a bit, and there was no apparent way to tighten it. That made measurements a bit tedious. I think I'll look for a better T track solution, but keep the dial indicator.

Best,
mike

Use the ZeroPlay bar, it solves the slop problem with the guide slot and can be adjusted for all of your tools.

ldh

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robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:17 pm

dusty wrote: :(I'll be more careful with the photo evidence in the future!

But does the DNA match.

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robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:00 pm

I think Dusty's chosen level of accuracy is a good common sense compromise between a little too sloppy and down right perfection. He chooses to check things with a dial indicator which is fine. I usually check set-ups with a stick... Not that I wouldn't use a dial indicator if one was handy. I have a drawer of them in the other shop by the metal lathe but have just never carried one down to the wood shop. I might do that some day... My only real objection to dial indicators comes from a couple of email list I used to be on where a couple of guys swore that you could not make a decent set-up without one. Of course those same few guys also spent much of their time openly mocking guys that were excited about getting a new lower cost table saw. Talk about constant put-downs. In their opinion any one that didn't have a $1600 table saw was just wasting their time and their wood. That has never been the attitude here. (BTW, they also hated Shopsmiths).

I do like to poke Dusty with a sharp stick now and then to keep him on his toes

and joke about the dial indicator on my hatchet but I don't really have anything against them.
Some where I have some old run-out indicators That are shaped like a narrow piece of pie a couple of inches long and have marks along what would be the crust edge. The pivot on the arm is at the pointed end of the piece of pie. The long end of the arm is the needle pointing to the marks and the short end out past the pivot has a tiny ball shaped follower that is like the contact on the dial indicator. I hope I am describing this well. I looked for a picture but I must have been searching with the wrong terms. Those were very cheap to buy but would serve well for this type of alignment. I "guess" they still make them.

scooters · Post by **scooters** » Fri Jan 22, 2010 10:16 pm

Great info. Thanks!!!
It will be interesting to give it a try. At least I got it on sale.

Website says that, while they had it on sale, it is on backorder. It will be interesting to see how soon it ships.

I could be wrong, but I kinda think that they are lining up someone to produce an item, but SS needs to place a minimum order. They use the sale to beef up sales until they have enough to make the order.

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:56 am

scooters wrote:I just ordered the dial indicator that is on special from SS. Is it worth it??

Simply, in my humble opinion, absolutely Yes.

horologist · Post by **horologist** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 2:48 pm

If you will use it then it is worth it. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but the indicator is most definitely made in China. However, it is of decent quality and certainly is good enough for woodworking tolerances. The package of extra tips is also handy.

While it is possible to buy an indicator for less, you aren't just buying an indicator. The substantial mounting base (likely made in the USA) is well thought out and works well with the Shopsmith. No doubt, if you have access to a mill you can certainly duplicate the whole setup for less. That is as long as you don't factor in the value of your time.

Troy

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 3:51 pm

About 40 years ago, I bought a dial indicator from an auto parts store. It came with attachments to fit spark plug holes. It was used for timing snowmobiles. Our son got it when we pulled up roots from Montana. He still has it and uses it for alignment of bicycle wheels and stuff. I should mention that it came with a nice felt lined case and cost around $35 back then. It was made in the U.S.

A year or so ago, I bought the Shopsmith unit with no apologies to cost. both of these units are almost identical, except for the attachments coming with them. Both of these units have the same accuracy.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 4:57 pm

robinson46176 wrote: Some where I have some old run-out indicators That are shaped like a narrow piece of pie a couple of inches long and have marks along what would be the crust edge. The pivot on the arm is at the pointed end of the piece of pie. The long end of the arm is the needle pointing to the marks and the short end out past the pivot has a tiny ball shaped follower that is like the contact on the dial indicator. I hope I am describing this well. I looked for a picture but I must have been searching with the wrong terms. Those were very cheap to buy but would serve well for this type of alignment. I "guess" they still make them.

F I N A L L Y ! ! ! !

I have been looking for a picture of one of these since I made the post above. This picture is pretty close to the ones I have here "somewhere". Mine are more pie shaped but the principle is exactly the same. I finally found this picture where some were listed as antiques for sale. (OK, I am an antique...)

They are very simple and not much to go wrong as long as you treat them decent. BTW, they are asking $40.00 each for these.
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