Bandsaw blade guide adjuster very sticky

mikemmk · Post by **mikemmk** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 11:21 am

Hello everyone,

I've searched the forum a couple of times and haven't been able to find anything on this issue. When changing blades, the knuckle busting adjustment knob on my bandsaw is very difficult to turn. I'd be tempted to put a pair of vice grips on it if there was room to do so. Both the upper and lower guides are difficult to turn.

I've just started my annual maintenance on my '82 Mark V and was considering tearing the blade guides down to take a look. I wonder if anyone has any suggestions or can reference a previous thread on this subject.

Thanks!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:14 pm

mikemmk wrote:Hello everyone,

I've searched the forum a couple of times and haven't been able to find anything on this issue. When changing blades, the knuckle busting adjustment knob on my bandsaw is very difficult to turn. I'd be tempted to put a pair of vice grips on it if there was room to do so. Both the upper and lower guides are difficult to turn.

I've just started my annual maintenance on my '82 Mark V and was considering tearing the blade guides down to take a look. I wonder if anyone has any suggestions or can reference a previous thread on this subject.

Thanks!

Tell me about it!:( I have the same problem and I have had it all apart looking for a permanent fix that has alluded me.

The bad thing - sometimes I don't readjust the bandsaw like I should.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:22 pm

I just finished an overhaul...sorta....on mine. Replaced the bearings, added dust collection and sprayed some dri-lube on the shafts of the adjuster and on the threads. It helped a little.
Made my own guides from oil soaked oak, too. Way cheaper.
Gene

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:38 pm

mikemmk wrote:Hello everyone,

I've searched the forum a couple of times and haven't been able to find anything on this issue. When changing blades, the knuckle busting adjustment knob on my band saw is very difficult to turn. I'd be tempted to put a pair of vice grips on it if there was room to do so. Both the upper and lower guides are difficult to turn. ...
Thanks!

Mine too! Here's my fix. Put a little turbine oil on the screw then - using two hands, turn the knob and at the same time push or pull on the block's side. They will loosen up!

Don't the screws have screwdriver slots?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 5:20 am

charlese wrote:Mine too! Here's my fix. Put a little turbine oil on the screw then - using two hands, turn the knob and at the same time push or pull on the block's side. They will loosen up!

Don't the screws have screwdriver slots?

Yes, they do have screw driver slots. But do you think these adjustment screws are suppose to be so difficult to adjust? The mechanism isn't that complex. It just seems like this should be easier.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:30 am

dusty wrote:Yes, they do have screw driver slots. But do you think these adjustment screws are suppose to be so difficult to adjust? The mechanism isn't that complex. It just seems like this should be easier.

I cannot resist jumping in here. I use my favorite "Kroil" to loosen the crud/dust that jams the sliding part and the screw threads. I use a spray on dry moly lubricant after freeing up everything as I believe any oil left on will collect more crud/dust and have the same problem next time you try to move the guide blocks. I stock the ceramic guide blocks if anyone is interested.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 9:57 am

billmayo wrote:I cannot resist jumping in here. I use my favorite "Kroil" to loosen the crud/dust that jams the sliding part and the screw threads. I use a spray on dry moly lubricant after freeing up everything as I believe any oil left on will collect more crud/dust and have the same problem next time you try to move the guide blocks. I stock the ceramic guide blocks if anyone is interested.

I also can not resist. What crude? I thought that you might be right, Bill, so I pulled it apart, lubed and put it back together but it is still hard to move.

I must say, I don't understand why. The Guide Block Bracket (75) simple slides back and forth in the Upper Guide Bracket (80) and is restricted from movement only by the pressure applied by the Guide Block Spring (78). Three little parts should not be so much trouble.

Does it make a difference on which side the spring is placed. My spring is on the side opposite where it appears in the IPB?

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 11:58 am

Perhaps these threads are purposely made to an interference fit so that they don't vibrate loose while operating the saw. If so, that would explain the difficulty in making adjustments.

Art in Western PA

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 12:11 pm

The threads on the adjustment/retaining screw are not the issue. You can completely remove the screw and the knurled knob, leaving only the upper guide bracket, guide block spring and guide block bracket. The guide block bracket can be moved without the aid of the screw and knurled knob but the stiffness is still apparent.

Thankfully, this adjustment doesn't need to be made very often (unless of course you changed blade frequently).

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:28 pm

mikemmk wrote:Hello everyone,
... When changing blades, the knuckle busting adjustment knob on my bandsaw is very difficult to turn. I'd be tempted to put a pair of vice grips on it if there was room to do so.
[[[ NOooooooooooo...]]]
Both the upper and lower guides are difficult to turn.
...and was considering tearing the blade guides down to take a look.Thanks!

Ah, so, familiar problem I see.
I went for it- took the whole mess apart. Mysterious as to what makes it so "tight".
But I made sure the surfaces that move against each other were very very smooth (thank goodness for Super Fine diamond hones!) and very clean, applied dry graphite lube (spent 20 minutes on this alone to make sure the pieces whut wanted it got it-- in, out, in, out...), made the other contact surfaces smooth (thank goodness for mini-files!), and "re-calibrated" the tension of the springs. (The screws are the "parking brake" type.)

Heck of a lot of work for such a small piece of work, and I don't know how long it'll last (so far 6 blade changes no change) but the difference was well worth it. If I were ten years younger I might consider doing it again if necessary.

It's a simple enough job to take apart and put back together. Use lotsa light.
and good luck