What saw blade (s) should one have to begin woodworking?

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mickyd
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What saw blade (s) should one have to begin woodworking?

Post by mickyd »

Deep pockets would say to order the ~$250 specialty saw package though ShopSmith as a starter set. For a 3/4 hp model 500, what is a more economical choice / selection to start off with?
Mike
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paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

Options in order of decreasing cost.

Option 1: Get the new Pro headstock
Option 2: Get with a new motor, and then buy any blade you want from anyone you want.
Option 3: Buy two carbide thin kerf blades (rip and crosscut), I would not use a full width blade.
Option 4: Buy one combination thin kerf blade

A good thin kerf blade cuts will even with battery operated motors.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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shipwright
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Post by shipwright »

Get an arbor for 5/8 mount blades and the world is your oyster. There are LOTS of good blades out there for the industry standard 5/8 arbor. If you insist on being a true SS man, your blades will cost you more than your machine did. (initial cost)
Get a general purpose (combination) blade for starters. They are just that.

Paul M
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

Hi;
I just saw a 80 tooth 10" crosscut blade manufactured by Amana at a Lowes for about 60 bucks. Also a good quality dedicated ripping blade for sizing stock is also a requirement IMHO. Get an arbor for each blade from SS or the internet but 5/8 " arbors for the 510 or 520 seem hard to come by on E-Bay. If you do not need a dedicated cross cut blade then a good quality combination blade is good too. The dedicated cross cut blade is more of a requirement for fine cabinet work or picture frames and crown molding.
Of course these are only MY opinions, others may feel differently.
Bill V
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

Get a combo, and rip blades. Just be sure you buy QUALITY blades.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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reible
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Post by reible »

Hi,

This is usually the place that starts us off on all sorts of tangents but hey who know were it will go this time.

I like to spend more for blades, not to waste money but to get what I imagine as higher quality. I'm just impressed enough with the upper line of blades to recommend staying to the high side.

Of course depending on what you are doing a $15 blade maybe just fine, like making a dog house, bird house, garden trellis but when I get to some work that I feel needs the nicer, smoother, and less sanding required I step up in price. For me a blade in the $50 range on sale for $35 or so is a cheap blade but I have never purchased a blade for over $100, well maybe with tax...

I have had very good luck with Infinity's line of router bits and saw blades. Over the past few years all of my blades and most of my router bits come from them. Just today in my email they mentioned that their top of the line Super General (comb) blade is on sale for I think it was $90 (normally $109). They also have various other blades that I can recommend, both the thin kerf and 1/8" glue line rip blades and the combo max. You can take a look at them here:
http://www.infinitytools.com/SAW-BLADES-PACKAGES/departments/1026/

They also now carry a set-up "blade" that I would buy if I didn't already have a master plate, you can see that here:
http://www.infinitytools.com/Set-up-Sanding-Disk/productinfo/SSD-010/

Also check the "overstock" area for more blade deals.

I have always found that the easiest way to better sawing was with better blades.

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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nuhobby
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Post by nuhobby »

Hi,

Adding this reference especially since you're at a 3/4-hp setup:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3067

PS I met one guy with a 3/4-hp 500. He was in good contact with a sharpener, and he kept some non-carbide blades 9" sharpened as well. In some cases, if you could accept the quicker edge-wear, the steel could be made sharper than carbide (fresh off the sharpening).
Chris
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Post by sliver »

I've always used mid priced combo blades, but I recently bought a Craftsman sliding compound saw with a 60 tooth blade and I love it. Very smooth cuts in everything I've tried it on, mostly cross cutting mind you. I still have a 40 tooth and 28 tooth combo too but I'm sold on the 60. It's not the thin-kerf variety but neither is the price. My two cents worth (a nickle with inflation!).
That's as close as damn is to swearin'.
foxtrapper
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Post by foxtrapper »

shipwright wrote:Get an arbor for 5/8 mount blades and the world is your oyster.
Agreed. This is the way to go.
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