Basic or not so, general interest??
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Super Project!
So far it is looking GREAT!!!! Can't wait to see the finished project, Ed. I fully understand the interuptions in progress! No problem! It's the same here!
However, As yet, can't understand the need for all the precise measurements and all the math.
However, As yet, can't understand the need for all the precise measurements and all the math.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
It would be nice if his 'design' fit any ss model. All those early ??? were to try to make it come out that way!charlese wrote:So far it is looking GREAT!!!! Can't wait to see the finished project, Ed. I fully understand the interuptions in progress! No problem! It's the same here!
However, As yet, can't understand the need for all the precise measurements and all the math.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I started out with all good intentions of making a lot of progress today. That lasted for a little while.
First my order arrived with my new set of centering drills, a set of 1-4 + two loose ones, a #5 and #6. I figured a few of you who didn't know what they were would look them up and a few would not. So for those who did not this is what they look like:
[ATTACH]8613[/ATTACH]
These do come in other angles so if you are wanting a set for using with your lathe live center and it is 60 degrees then you want the matching 60 degree center drills.
I did get the two rectangular sections attached, using screws at this point in case I need to disassemble and make some modifications when fitting the top.
I also assembled the hinge parts. The only problem here was that I lost the screws for the hinge. I ended up using a #6 rather then the #4 or #5 that came with the hinge. It is not a big deal because the hinge will never close in the screw to screw position. To make it easier to mount the hinge I routed a shallow rabbet to fit the hinge into. Sorry it doesn't show up well in this picture... please feel free to imagine you see it.
[ATTACH]8614[/ATTACH]
That was as far as this project got. My middle son showed up needing a ladder so we had to dig it out of the garage, then the wall standoff from the shed and the U bolts from the garage... Oh yea he needed my van to carry it in... After lunch I was about to get back at it and before I get out the door my son is back so we have to put things back. But wait, now he wants to get the two motorcycles out from behind the shed so he can pick them up this weekend. (This is actually good news as they have been back there for a while now.) Who knew the tires would be flat... we all did right? Then started the pushing, one has a drum brake on the back that is stuck in place. The good news it is the one without the engine. I then realized that it was 82 degrees and this is becoming a workout.
The engine was stuck back at the deep end of the shed with everything stacked in front of it... Anyway the stuff is now all ready to be picked up and I'm exhausted. A good job done (if it gets picked up this weekend).
The bad news was that he was not working today because business is in another down turn and he is working 4 days a week starting this week. Nice to have the time off but...
So the plan for me is to start on the most difficult part of the project next, that being the top. Several tricky things have to come together like they do in sketchup... if I did them right in sketchup. The other problem is the large box sitting in the hallway with the new attic ladder I should be working on...
See:
http://www.amazon.com/Werner-AA8-Televa ... 064&sr=1-1
Ed
First my order arrived with my new set of centering drills, a set of 1-4 + two loose ones, a #5 and #6. I figured a few of you who didn't know what they were would look them up and a few would not. So for those who did not this is what they look like:
[ATTACH]8613[/ATTACH]
These do come in other angles so if you are wanting a set for using with your lathe live center and it is 60 degrees then you want the matching 60 degree center drills.
I did get the two rectangular sections attached, using screws at this point in case I need to disassemble and make some modifications when fitting the top.
I also assembled the hinge parts. The only problem here was that I lost the screws for the hinge. I ended up using a #6 rather then the #4 or #5 that came with the hinge. It is not a big deal because the hinge will never close in the screw to screw position. To make it easier to mount the hinge I routed a shallow rabbet to fit the hinge into. Sorry it doesn't show up well in this picture... please feel free to imagine you see it.
[ATTACH]8614[/ATTACH]
That was as far as this project got. My middle son showed up needing a ladder so we had to dig it out of the garage, then the wall standoff from the shed and the U bolts from the garage... Oh yea he needed my van to carry it in... After lunch I was about to get back at it and before I get out the door my son is back so we have to put things back. But wait, now he wants to get the two motorcycles out from behind the shed so he can pick them up this weekend. (This is actually good news as they have been back there for a while now.) Who knew the tires would be flat... we all did right? Then started the pushing, one has a drum brake on the back that is stuck in place. The good news it is the one without the engine. I then realized that it was 82 degrees and this is becoming a workout.
The engine was stuck back at the deep end of the shed with everything stacked in front of it... Anyway the stuff is now all ready to be picked up and I'm exhausted. A good job done (if it gets picked up this weekend).
The bad news was that he was not working today because business is in another down turn and he is working 4 days a week starting this week. Nice to have the time off but...
So the plan for me is to start on the most difficult part of the project next, that being the top. Several tricky things have to come together like they do in sketchup... if I did them right in sketchup. The other problem is the large box sitting in the hallway with the new attic ladder I should be working on...
See:
http://www.amazon.com/Werner-AA8-Televa ... 064&sr=1-1
Ed
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{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Today I made a bit more headway on the project by cutting the new top to size, and marking it up for future operations.
The coating on this material looks pretty thin so I wasn't sure how well the material would cut. I hinged my bet a bit and taped the cut location and went with my crosscut blade rather then one of the comb blades. As it turned out it cut cleanly and would not have needed the tape.
I made the cuts so I could best save the left overs for other projects. In this picture you can see what it looked like before going to the saw.
[ATTACH]8643[/ATTACH]
The one cut off is still a good size for another project or maybe 2. The thinner one will also serve some purpose... Anyway this is what was left:
[ATTACH]8644[/ATTACH]
I established which corner had a nice 90 degree corner and used the adjacent sides against the fence to make the cuts. I also used that for the rest of the measurements in doing the layout. One of the next operations will be to cut a slit where the sanding drum will sit. The initial cut will be done from the top using a router. Not much room for error when this cut is made. Still other features will appear only on the underside and these will need to be cut from the underside. When flipped over to do these markings left and right change sides so you have to keep in mind just want you are doing or else it will take you to a bad place. I think I have it right but decided not to do any of the cuts today but rather wait until tomorrow and then recheck what I have marked...
The material is so dark that it is hard to see the pencil lines so I've been using tape to make it easier to see. It ends up looking a bit odd but should work fine, here is a picture of the underside:
[ATTACH]8645[/ATTACH]
Ed
The coating on this material looks pretty thin so I wasn't sure how well the material would cut. I hinged my bet a bit and taped the cut location and went with my crosscut blade rather then one of the comb blades. As it turned out it cut cleanly and would not have needed the tape.
I made the cuts so I could best save the left overs for other projects. In this picture you can see what it looked like before going to the saw.
[ATTACH]8643[/ATTACH]
The one cut off is still a good size for another project or maybe 2. The thinner one will also serve some purpose... Anyway this is what was left:
[ATTACH]8644[/ATTACH]
I established which corner had a nice 90 degree corner and used the adjacent sides against the fence to make the cuts. I also used that for the rest of the measurements in doing the layout. One of the next operations will be to cut a slit where the sanding drum will sit. The initial cut will be done from the top using a router. Not much room for error when this cut is made. Still other features will appear only on the underside and these will need to be cut from the underside. When flipped over to do these markings left and right change sides so you have to keep in mind just want you are doing or else it will take you to a bad place. I think I have it right but decided not to do any of the cuts today but rather wait until tomorrow and then recheck what I have marked...
The material is so dark that it is hard to see the pencil lines so I've been using tape to make it easier to see. It ends up looking a bit odd but should work fine, here is a picture of the underside:
[ATTACH]8645[/ATTACH]
Ed
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{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35457
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
reible wrote:Today I made a bit more headway on the project by cutting the new top to size, and marking it up for future operations.
The coating on this material looks pretty thin so I wasn't sure how well the material would cut. I hinged my bet a bit and taped the cut location and went with my crosscut blade rather then one of the comb blades. As it turned out it cut cleanly and would not have needed the tape.
I made the cuts so I could best save the left overs for other projects. In this picture you can see what it looked like before going to the saw.
[ATTACH]8643[/ATTACH]
The one cut off is still a good size for another project or maybe 2. The thinner one will also serve some purpose... Anyway this is what was left:
[ATTACH]8644[/ATTACH]
I established which corner had a nice 90 degree corner and used the adjacent sides against the fence to make the cuts. I also used that for the rest of the measurements in doing the layout. One of the next operations will be to cut a slit where the sanding drum will sit. The initial cut will be done from the top using a router. Not much room for error when this cut is made. Still other features will appear only on the underside and these will need to be cut from the underside. When flipped over to do these markings left and right change sides so you have to keep in mind just want you are doing or else it will take you to a bad place. I think I have it right but decided not to do any of the cuts today but rather wait until tomorrow and then recheck what I have marked...
The material is so dark that it is hard to see the pencil lines so I've been using tape to make it easier to see. It ends up looking a bit odd but should work fine, here is a picture of the underside:
[ATTACH]8645[/ATTACH]
Ed
What's the white thing on the shoulder of the belt cover in the second pix? A magnet? What is it fer?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Yes it is a magnet, one of those rare earth types with the one just a bit bigger then the other so the item on the small end should come loose before the larger magnet comes loose from what ever it is stuck on.JPG40504 wrote:What's the white thing on the shoulder of the belt cover in the second pix? A magnet? What is it fer?
It happens to be a handy place to stick the universal allen wrench. Why on the back side of the headstock? It comes in handy when working with the 5++ rails and legs and assorted out feed table arrangements when you are working on the back side.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
- JPG
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- Posts: 35457
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I used to stick a speaker magnet(and frame) on the front and stick the wrench in between the magnet and frame. It also left room for a pencil with a slip on eraser.reible wrote:Yes it is a magnet, one of those rare earth types with the one just a bit bigger then the other so the item on the small end should come loose before the larger magnet comes loose from what ever it is stuck on.
It happens to be a handy place to stick the universal allen wrench. Why on the back side of the headstock? It comes in handy when working with the 5++ rails and legs and assorted out feed table arrangements when you are working on the back side.
Ed
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Got a couple of hours of work done on the project today. Got back from my trip and had all sorts of little things that needed my attention first including the hole in the ceiling where the ladder is. The "cover" is made and after I put the primer on I had some "free" time to work on some things I wanted to do, including the project at hand.
As you may recall a few posts and weeks ago I was about to work on the top... That is what I did today. I got the hole made for the drum and the inside work needed to clear the pillow blocks. It seems to function fine at this point so I'm happy with today's progress.
I had predetermined the top side opening so I set up some hardboard strips so I could use my plunge router, guide bushing and spiral bit. Several depth settings later I had routed out the opening.
[ATTACH]8765[/ATTACH]
The remainder of the work was then then done to the other side of the top. In the next picture you can see the top as it will be when the project is finished. All of the routing was done and checked out. (Note the top is brown...)
[ATTACH]8766[/ATTACH]
Here is a shot of the underside of the top.
[ATTACH]8767[/ATTACH]
This last shot is the final router bit that I used. Just to make sure you are still reading this posts how about someone telling us what this type of bit is called??? Note that the bearing was used to control the operation and was running on the original opening I had made in the top. Actually only about 1/2 the bearing was making contact but there is no problem doing it that way.
[ATTACH]8768[/ATTACH]
Some of you Jointech users might have noticed that the base shown is one of theirs.
For some of you new to woodworking and routers this is a common practice to use the base plate out of the table in this manner. No need to remove the router from the plate and put the original base plate back on the router.
Next on the burner is the oak trim for the table top... ohhh maybe that was a bad way to word that.... Might be a couple of days before that happens if the forecast for rain is correct.
Ed
As you may recall a few posts and weeks ago I was about to work on the top... That is what I did today. I got the hole made for the drum and the inside work needed to clear the pillow blocks. It seems to function fine at this point so I'm happy with today's progress.
I had predetermined the top side opening so I set up some hardboard strips so I could use my plunge router, guide bushing and spiral bit. Several depth settings later I had routed out the opening.
[ATTACH]8765[/ATTACH]
The remainder of the work was then then done to the other side of the top. In the next picture you can see the top as it will be when the project is finished. All of the routing was done and checked out. (Note the top is brown...)
[ATTACH]8766[/ATTACH]
Here is a shot of the underside of the top.
[ATTACH]8767[/ATTACH]
This last shot is the final router bit that I used. Just to make sure you are still reading this posts how about someone telling us what this type of bit is called??? Note that the bearing was used to control the operation and was running on the original opening I had made in the top. Actually only about 1/2 the bearing was making contact but there is no problem doing it that way.
[ATTACH]8768[/ATTACH]
Some of you Jointech users might have noticed that the base shown is one of theirs.
For some of you new to woodworking and routers this is a common practice to use the base plate out of the table in this manner. No need to remove the router from the plate and put the original base plate back on the router.
Next on the burner is the oak trim for the table top... ohhh maybe that was a bad way to word that.... Might be a couple of days before that happens if the forecast for rain is correct.
Ed
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{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Velcro time. I know I was thinking of doing the top trim but then thought better of doing that as when that happens the access to the underside of the table top with a router will be gone. If I had an error in judgment or woodworking and had to make adjustments I'd be sorry....
The velcro I purchased was in a sheet form, why sheet form? All having to do with cost. In this first picture you can see that the width needed to be trimmed. This is not very critical but you will want to be close.
[ATTACH]8789[/ATTACH]
The next cut needed was to get it to match the circumference of the drum. For this I used some waxed twine wrapped around the drum and marked as shown in the next picture.
[ATTACH]8790[/ATTACH]
I was cutting the velcro with a scissors but if I had to do it again I think I would have gotten a lot closer using a blade and straight edge. As it was I had to do a little trimming after it was stuck in place... Check out the picture.
[ATTACH]8791[/ATTACH]
Next needed to cut the sandpaper to fit. There is a way to get the angle needed but we can't give away all the secrets today.
Once cut to size and wrapped it looked like this:
[ATTACH]8792[/ATTACH]
I'd like to keep going on this project but I promised to work in the garden for a while today. Maybe tomorrow I'll get to the trim boards???
Ed
The velcro I purchased was in a sheet form, why sheet form? All having to do with cost. In this first picture you can see that the width needed to be trimmed. This is not very critical but you will want to be close.
[ATTACH]8789[/ATTACH]
The next cut needed was to get it to match the circumference of the drum. For this I used some waxed twine wrapped around the drum and marked as shown in the next picture.
[ATTACH]8790[/ATTACH]
I was cutting the velcro with a scissors but if I had to do it again I think I would have gotten a lot closer using a blade and straight edge. As it was I had to do a little trimming after it was stuck in place... Check out the picture.
[ATTACH]8791[/ATTACH]
Next needed to cut the sandpaper to fit. There is a way to get the angle needed but we can't give away all the secrets today.
Once cut to size and wrapped it looked like this:
[ATTACH]8792[/ATTACH]
I'd like to keep going on this project but I promised to work in the garden for a while today. Maybe tomorrow I'll get to the trim boards???
Ed
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{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]