shipwright, shipwright, shipwright.....I'm not at all interested in getting the glass to fit perfectly. It just needs to fit. The rabbet (if your calling the groove in the bottom rail a rabbet where the glass thickness seats) is not an issue at all. It's the 5 cuts that have to be made to ultimately determine the inside width of the lantern where the glass needs to fit into. To appreciate it, you need to consider making 5 cuts who's cumulative error can be no more than minus 1/32" if you are making the project to the plan. Fitting the wood to the glass is the obvious non debatable answer but you don't even know the design is so closely toleranced unless you first calculate that.shipwright wrote:Mickyd, Mickyd,Mickyd... Why would you want the glass to be an exact fit anyway? Admittedly I haven't looked at the plans but as I understand it (and I know you'll correct me if I'm wrong) the glass is in a rabbet and you don't get to see the edges of it, no? I would fit the wood to the glass planning anywhere from 1/8 to 3/16 play room for the glass. I would also have the glass cut that much undersize if I had already finished the woodwork. They are different materials and have different properties. On a bigger project tightly fitted glass could be broken by expanding wood or in a small one the joints could be opened up by the same action in the wood.
As for the critical dimensions, stop looking at the plans and look at the pieces. Dont measure one piece and then measure and mark the other. Put one piece against the mating piece and mark where the cut goes. That way you don't even need a ruler and accuracy is all about how sharp your pencil is. Capisce?
Bottom line is really relax and enjoy and if it dosen't work you learn something. You're doing great but you're working way too hard at it.
Good luck
Paul M
As far as not looking at the plans instead, look at the pieces, I can only give this example. When you first start to drive, you have to look at the speedometer (the plan) to know how fast your going. As you gain experience, you start to look at the surrounding (the pieces) to know how fast your going. Same thing with woodworking I say.
I'm aware already that you don't measure and cut a piece then measure and mark the next piece. That's were proper staging / fixturing / and positive stops come into play. Measure, cut, and measure the first piece for accuracy then cut additional pieces and the only difference will be the repeatability of the setup which could be good or could be bad.
Right now, I am working at a OK pace....slow but understandable. I am having to 'look down at the speedometer often to make sure I am on track'. I like your feedback and appreciate your interest.
p.s. I'm glad you used the word capisce'. Used to be my dads (first generation US from canuck heritage) favorite closing comment to me after our 'discussions'. I've wanted to use it but didn't know for sure if it was actually a French word or if it was just a saying he had. Thought it was spelled 'copeach' and was thus unsuccessful looking it up in a French to English dictionary. So yes, 'capisce' but.....my position is still have to throughly understand the plan, the required accuracy, and the proper measuring device before making a bunch of sawdust (and glass scratches also:D ) Ta-ta!!
but I just wanted to say first off Heath, great job so far on the lanterns. Secondly, enjoy doing what you do, and remember part of being a craftsman is doing it your way, putting your mark, your style and your soul into it. One thing I've learned over the years when building everything from adjustable shaker floor lamps to canopy beds, is that the recipient sees the time and care you put into your projects. As I told my four children from the time they were old enough to understand, "anything worth doing, is worth doing well". With that said, doing it well doesn't necessarily mean doing it the same as someone else, just arriving at an end product you can be proud of.
