mickyd wrote: . . .have to admit it was fun trying it out on my newly restored Stanley chisels I've had since I was 18. Used 'scary sharp' method to bring the edges back.
I would appreciate help with two questions:
1. Is there a way to do a Forum search for a phrase like "scary sharp"? All I can get is results for each separate word.
2. Would someone be so kind as to point me to the thread that discusses the "scary sharp" process?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
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Bob
There are really no degrees of sharpness.In a wood shop, a tool is either sharp or dull. If it is not sharp - it's dull! I will agree there are degrees of dullness. these go all the way from rough/tough cutting to nicked and chipped.
Actually the term scary sharpness is very misleading! A sharp tool is much safer than a dull one. Perhaps the "scary" term was born from the obligatory warnings of tool makers that their blades are sharp and give you a warning to not cut your self.
Responsibility of handling woodworking tools belongs to the user, and he/she would be a lot safer to use only sharp tools/blades.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Completed phase II of the pegboard storage rack assembly. These are the two door frames assembled and rabbeted on both sides side to accept the pegboard.
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The doors are mounted to the arms of the frames using the bolt, T-nut, and bushing shown in this post above
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The inside door has to be an inch narrower than the outside door in order to clear it as it swings open.
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You can see the 6" steel scale toward the bottom that shows the gap between the doors when in the closed position. There is about a 5" separation between the door surfaces which will be plenty for any taller tools.
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Next steps will be adding the top and bottom plywood panels into the dados on the horizontal arms (glued with screws) and then adding the pegboard to the door frames, both of which will add rigidity to the assembly.
Anyone want to chime in on my finishing options for this project? I feel like I am finish challenged. All I know is paint, tung oil, urethane, and vanish. Since this is a workshop cabinet, cosmetics obviously aren't important so I was thinking straight tung oil??? What say you?
mickyd wrote:Thanks Chuck. Keeps me out of mischief.
Anyone want to chime in on my finishing options for this project? I feel like I am finish challenged. All I know is paint, tung oil, urethane, and vanish. Since this is a workshop cabinet, cosmetics obviously aren't important so I was thinking straight tung oil??? What say you?
Considering all the knots, shellac may be prudent!
I did not say 'good' or pretty.
A dark stain first will help 'disguise' them.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
