Crosscut Sled

[JPG]

Now I must be more careful. I had never been warned about losing a carbide tip while cutting aluminum and though I cut very little on the table saw, I do on occasion.

I usually use the bandsaw.

Do I read you right..shipwright..are you saying that I can safely cut aluminum using a steel blade is I use oil????

Small teeth(plywood blade) messy oil resharpen blade often. Yes but be wary of harder alloys of aluminum. The old reynolds 'hobby' aluminum was touted as being sawable with wood blades, however it was very soft as aluminum goes.

Workpiece control becomes critical!!!!!

I would be leery of trying this with a combination large toothed set toothed blade.

I would also only do this as a last resort! There are better ways to cut metals.

[shipwright]

Now I must be more careful. I had never been warned about losing a carbide tip while cutting aluminum and though I cut very little on the table saw, I do on occasion.

I usually use the bandsaw.

Do I read you right..shipwright..are you saying that I can safely cut aluminum using a steel blade is I use oil????

Yes. I once built a 53 foot aluminum sailboat hull, deck and cabin for the owner of an aluminum welding shop. I laid out, cut, and fitted the pieces and then whistled for one of the welders to come and tack it in place. All the cutting was done with skill saws to get close to the line and finished to perfect welding seam fit with a mini grinder. The steel blades will cut fine with or without oil but the teeth will plug up with aluminium if they're not oiled. Bees' wax did the same for the discs.

Paul M

[shipwright]

Small teeth(plywood blade) messy oil resharpen blade often. Yes but be wary of harder alloys of aluminum. The old reynolds 'hobby' aluminum was touted as being sawable with wood blades, however it was very soft as aluminum goes.

Workpiece control becomes critical!!!!!

I would be leery of trying this with a combination large toothed set toothed blade.

I would also only do this as a last resort! There are better ways to cut metals.

What are they?

Paul M

[JPG]

What are they?

Paul M

Band saws, jig saws(hand held or 'stationary'), hacksaws, files, all with a proper blade and lubrication of course. Lathes also come to mind for bar stock.

P.S. Abrasive cutoff wheels(work better with steel than aluminum).

[shipwright]

Those aren't going to get the big pieces cut out. The shop I was working at built aluminium boats. The pieces could be 1/4" aluminium in 20' x 6' sheets. it was circular saws all the way. We did use a 14" bandsaw for little pieces.

Don't want to be argumentative, I just think we're talking about different scales of jobs. The question was can you do it? I'm just saying yes, you can.

Paul M

[JPG]

Those aren't going to get the big pieces cut out. The shop I was working at built aluminium boats. The pieces could be 1/4" aluminium in 20' x 6' sheets. it was circular saws all the way. We did use a 14" bandsaw for little pieces.

Don't want to be argumentative, I just think we're talking about different scales of jobs. The question was can you do it? I'm just saying yes, you can.

Paul M

No argument, just further understanding!:)

[burkhome]

For the record there are now carbide circular blades designed specifically for cutting metal. One co mpany markets a full line of chop saws and circular saws that cut wood, plastic, and metal with the same blade. They slow the RPM to 3500 and have a special grind. I have used their equipment and they cut very smooth with no heat marks. Evolution products is the company. Not believing the claims, I took a 1" grade 8 rod and cut it off with a resin blade on my shop chop saw. I then took the evolution circular saw and cut again. The evolution saw cut with no heat marks and as smooth as silk. After further use I found that after cutting 30 or 40 steel pipes, the blade cut lumber smoother than most brand new saw blades. Very interesting equipment.

[horologist]

2) When sanding or grinding aluminium use bees wax on the disc to prevent gumming up the grinding medium. I refer to angle grinder type discs here, I've never tried bees wax on an expensive grinding wheel (and I wouldn't)

Paul M

The best way to be banished from a shop is to try to grind aluminum on a grinding wheel. It loads up the wheel which then can shatter. Extremely dangerous, ruins the wheel and possibly your day.

In clock work there is no call for aluminum. However while in school I machined a bunch of the stuff. As Paul notes, most alloys do just fine, pure aluminum was a soft, gummy, and frustrating experience though.

Troy

[mickyd]

Yes. I once built a 53 foot aluminum sailboat hull........ The steel blades will cut fine with or without oil but the teeth will plug up with aluminum if they're not oiled. Bees' wax did the same for the discs.

Paul M

phenomenon known as 'galling'. Common when aluminum contacts steel, under even the slightest pressure. Localized areas of the two materials bond together through molecular attraction. This is seen often when inspecting aluminum holes diameters with steel gage pins. The pin is sliding into the hole effortlessly then 'BAM', it's frozen solid and has to be forced out. Aluminum traces remain stuck to the steel and has to be removed mechanically (scotchbrite, razor blade, etc). As Paul mentioned, lubing is the way to avoid it. Even trace amounts of lube works. No need to flood.

[dusty]

I love the sled but it needs to be checked occasionally. Here is how I check mine.

http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/five_cut_method_swf.htm

This particular presentation is from: http://lumberjocks.com/thewoodwhisperer/blog/22879