Pin Router you can make in an hour.. almost FREE

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Thu Sep 09, 2010 6:51 pm

I've been intrigued by the pin router concept for years but never really had a use for one. Recently some of the posts here have tipped me over the brink to where I started thinking what I might use one for and came up with "finer veneer tuning than I could do with the cheap inlay set I've been using". So I looked up DIY pin routers and finding them too complex and time consuming ( I want to spend my time using it, not making it) I decided to try to make one "freehand".
This is what I came up with from shop scraps in about an hour.

[ATTACH]10339[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]10340[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]10341[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]10342[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]10343[/ATTACH]

And it works really well.(so far) Now that I know the concept works, I will spend a little more time and make a "keeper" model.

Paul M

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Thu Sep 09, 2010 8:28 pm

Slick approach to pin routing, Paul. I see you're using a laminate trimmer for the router. Have you considered mounting the trimmer to a table insert and skipping the plywood structure? I've been thinking of mounting a trimmer to an insert for some light-duty work with dados or grooves, etc., but haven't gotten around to it yet. And, the pin routing would give it additional functionality.

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Thu Sep 09, 2010 9:11 pm

pennview wrote:Slick approach to pin routing, Paul. I see you're using a laminate trimmer for the router. Have you considered mounting the trimmer to a table insert and skipping the plywood structure? I've been thinking of mounting a trimmer to an insert for some light-duty work with dados or grooves, etc., but haven't gotten around to it yet. And, the pin routing would give it additional functionality.

The box is easy to make, install and remove and it's big advantage is alignment. You put the box on the table with a bit or pin in either the chuck or the collet, I used a bit in the collet, and then lower the quill and either fit the pin in the collet or clamp the chuck on the protruding bit shank, as I did, then clamp the box to the table. Voila, perfect alignment. Release the chuck, add the pin , raise the quill to allow parts in, and lower it again. You're ready to go.

That said you may be right, an insert seems at first glance to be cleaner. I'll give it some thought.

Paul M

gregf · Post by **gregf** » Thu Sep 09, 2010 9:40 pm

Clever idea!
Thanks for sharing.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:10 pm

Paul, I was thinking that if one mounted a blank insert in the table, then drilled a hole the size of a template guide bushing in the insert, and then mounted the guide bushing on the trimmer sub-base, that would allow aligning the trimmer under the drill chuck so that the trimmer could be mounted accurately to the table insert. But then again, it might not be accurate enough for pin routing the next time it's installed in the table.

Stitch · Post by **Stitch** » Sat Sep 11, 2010 8:21 am

The suggestion to do pin routing without having a pin router has me in a dither. I have to give this a lot more thought. I am trying to figure out what I MUST purchase to get into this hobby and pin routing is one of the processes that I think I would be interested in. I do hope there are more pictures to follow. PLEASE

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Sat Sep 11, 2010 10:32 am

This one was just a quick and dirty concept tryout. As such it works very well. So, having passed that test I will refine it into a usable tool. The main concepts tried out here were just the use of two chucks (chuck and collet) to hold the bit and pin and the idea of having the router "float" for easy alignment and then clamp down for use. As I say these ideas work. What needs refinement is mostly about router access for bit changing etc. That just means making the inner box wider. Easy. I'm also thinking that the box could accommodate a drop in router lift. (mine is Jess-Em but any would work) I like what I'm seeing in pin routing potential so I will definitely be refining this one and will post photos when I do.

Paul M

rlkeeney · Post by **rlkeeney** » Sat Sep 11, 2010 5:25 pm

You could use a piece of drill rod the appropriate size (1/4 or 1/2 inch) and long enough to mount in the router and the router. Tighten them up and clamp the table. Alignment complete.

A piece of drill rod would probably make a better pin. Smooth and hard.

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Sat Sep 11, 2010 6:44 pm

rlkeeney wrote:You could use a piece of drill rod the appropriate size (1/4 or 1/2 inch) and long enough to mount in the router and the router. Tighten them up and clap the table. Alignment complete.

A piece of drill rod would probably make a better pin. Smooth and hard.

Never was the piece of ready rod seen as a realistic pin. It was handy for the concept tryout. I am now using the smooth end of drill bits which conveniently come in a wide variety of sizes. The inlay system can be simulated by cutting two patterns, one with a 1/8" pin and one with a 3/8" pin, both with a 1/8" cutter. This will give you two patterns, one female for the field and a separate male pattern for the inlay piece. This is an improvement over the router bushing inlay sets in that both "keeper" pieces are protected under the pattern as opposed to the inlay piece being vulnerable in the bushing operation. I'm in the middle of testing this at the moment but I know it will work. I'll post when I get it done.

Paul M

efmaron · Post by **efmaron** » Sun Sep 12, 2010 9:07 am

What you have so far looks good for a quick try out, looking forward to see your finished product.