Corner shelf cutting woe
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As an alternative to the router and straight edge, you could use a hand-held circular saw and straight edge to cut the shelves. One of those 18 volt saws with a fine tooth blade does a nice job or plywood, giving you little or no splintering. Regarding the router bit, it's all in the quality of the bit and in keeping it clean and sharp with one of the diamond paddles.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
- dougclutter
- Silver Member
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 9:10 am
- Location: Ceresco, MI
Thanks for the reminder about Shopsmith's miter track! It's one of those things I know...and always seem to forget.dusty wrote:Be aware that not all sleds will work on the Mark V. There is that small matter of the miter track not being the same width and height. I believe Incra is your best bet - but not just any Incra. Make sure it is Shopsmith compatible what ever you get.
Then there is always the home built version.

Doug:
The Shopsmith cross cut sled at a little over $100 (sometimes it is on sale) is probably the cheapest way to go, although the fence will have to be installed (screwed on) the base and adjusted to 45 degrees with something like a large drafting triangle. Returning it to 90 degrees will involve reversing this process.
I have Incra's miter sled 5000 (Shopsmith version) and this is perhaps the ultimate cross cut accessory as it can be quickly adjusted to any angle within 1/2 degree. However this sled costs over three time as much and perhaps cannot be justified for occasional usages.
There are precision miter gauges, such as Incra's V120, but I think you will get better results using some type of sled for larger boards.
The Shopsmith cross cut sled at a little over $100 (sometimes it is on sale) is probably the cheapest way to go, although the fence will have to be installed (screwed on) the base and adjusted to 45 degrees with something like a large drafting triangle. Returning it to 90 degrees will involve reversing this process.
I have Incra's miter sled 5000 (Shopsmith version) and this is perhaps the ultimate cross cut accessory as it can be quickly adjusted to any angle within 1/2 degree. However this sled costs over three time as much and perhaps cannot be justified for occasional usages.
There are precision miter gauges, such as Incra's V120, but I think you will get better results using some type of sled for larger boards.
- dougclutter
- Silver Member
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 9:10 am
- Location: Ceresco, MI
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm leaning toward the 5000.
Shhhhhh...don't tell my wife I have to justify my woodworking expenses!8iowa wrote:...and perhaps cannot be justified for occasional usages.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm leaning toward the 5000.
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- Gold Member
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- Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2007 8:33 am
- Location: Royal Oak Mich.
Hello guys
Incra and Shopsmith have made a table sled in the past. perhaps thay still do?
the part no. was 522161A for Incra miter gauge/sled 2000 or 522163A for the Miter sled 5000.
If you buy the SS cross cut sliding table dont forget to also buy the auxillary table for the opposit side of the table. there numbers are 555535 (for the 510-520) and the aux. ins 555526
good luck on you project.
C.A.G.
Incra and Shopsmith have made a table sled in the past. perhaps thay still do?
the part no. was 522161A for Incra miter gauge/sled 2000 or 522163A for the Miter sled 5000.
If you buy the SS cross cut sliding table dont forget to also buy the auxillary table for the opposit side of the table. there numbers are 555535 (for the 510-520) and the aux. ins 555526
good luck on you project.
C.A.G.
- dougclutter
- Silver Member
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 9:10 am
- Location: Ceresco, MI
- dougclutter
- Silver Member
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 9:10 am
- Location: Ceresco, MI
Couply things: the center widening screw obviously effects only the one area. Miter bars/slots do Not necessarily fit equally in width thru the full range. When running the workpiece thru, concentrate on applying horizontal pressure (slight) also, either to left OR right as long as it's consistent, all the way. An extremely tiny slop in the slot can actually produce a "rounded" cut if the pressure varies from side to side. [Experience.]dougclutter wrote:...
I can't seem to duplicate the 45 degree cuts. Am using the SS Miter Gauge with squeeze-grip. Have tried adjusting it as follows:Doesn't seem to matter what I do, I can't duplicate the cut. Something seems to shift out of alignment and then the cussing starts.
- Adjusted center widening screw till gauge is snug in channel
- Checked and rechecked all table clamps...everything seems snug and solid
Sandpaper (repeat) on the miter face (gauge or auxiliary) even with the squeeze-grip. The clamp is good, but less reliable as work size increases.
Use the stop-rod if at all possible, too.
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On the miter slots: my two slots are NOT equal, and not consistent from back to front. I've "adjusted" (I salute the inventor of the ball peen hammer) my bar to best fit the right slot, and have taken the habit of always putting slight pressure toward the blade (w/ gauge or sled) all the way thru, including during setups & test cuts, just like one does while testing with the micrometer.
Btw, the INCRA SS miter bars have multiple fine-width tuning screws that work very well, without the extra attention. [Miter Express]
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one last thot: if the plywood is run thru to get a slightly oversize piece, can the edge be "fine-tuned" by running it thru again and taking off only, say, 1/32"? (In other words, do you get the error if removing only a teeny sliver?)
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;