Using the router collet on the SS

scollins · Post by **scollins** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 6:38 am

I am ready to expand my knowledge of the various set up options on the SS. I have a plunge router and a table mounted router so unless I decide to do some pin router work I don't anticipate a need to purchase a separate router set up for my SS. Dados and mortises will probably be done on one of my other tools. So what would be easier to do with the router collet on the SS?

I make small boxes so at the moment I am thinking that there has to be a way to use the SS to mortise the hinges safely. I have been hand cutting the mortises as the stock is usually 3/8 - 1/2" thick. I am still trying to remember that I can run the table back and forth to fine tune set ups in the drill press position.

Any help in shortening the learning curve will be greatly appreciated. I am trying to watch some of the videos, but I am really looking for advanced uses of the SS. Once I figure out how to safely perform a task, I leap frog on to the really fun stuff. The third pen that I turned was from a banksia pod to give you an indication of my mind set. I am not scared to dive in just scared of tearing up body parts and pretty wood.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 7:26 am

I don't know enough about your set up to give much advise but routing mortises in smaller items should not be a real problem. It really depends on what you have for fences and hold downs.

When doing mortises, so very little wood is being removed that control of the work piece is not difficult. However; don't get complacent as that spinning blade can take even a small piece of wood any from you and launch it.

I don't do this on the Shopsmith though. I don't know why but I instinctively turn to the router table for this work.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 10:48 am

To rout hinge mortises on the Shopsmith, simply attach a sacrificial wood fence to the rip fence (you don't want to run the bit into the aluminum fence) and then attach two stop blocks in order to limit movement of your box as you cut the mortises. You space the stop blocks equal to the width of the box plus the width of the hinge, taking into account the width of the bit you are using. By way of example, if your hinge is 2" wide and the router bit is 1/2" and the box is 10" wide, then the stop blocks would be 11 1/2" apart, or 10 plus 2 minus 1/2.

You will need two spacer blocks -- one of 2" width and one of 1 1/2" width. (The 2" block is the distance you want to position the hinge in from the corner of the box and the 1 1/2" spacer bloc is the width of the hinge minus the width of the router bit we're using.)

First, drop the bit to near the surface of the table and place the 2" spacer adjacent to the bit on the left side, then temporarily clamp a stop block next to the spacer, then remove the spacer and raise the bit. Now using the box, place the left size of the box against the stop block and clamp the other stop block to the right of the box. This sets the position where the bit will start to cut the mortise.

Next, remove the box and that stop block you temporarily attached earlier that was to the left of the box and also lower the bit again near the table surface. Place the 1 1/2" spacer blocks adjacent to the bit and on the left side of the bit, and then clamp the stop block to the left of the spacer. This sets the position where the bit will end the mortise.

Reverse the procedures to cut the second hinge mortise.

If you're mortising both the box and lid, don't forget to cut a mortise in the box and then the opposite one in the lid before you adjust any stop blocks. If you use a spacer block for set-up, they'll align perfectly. It's easier to do this with a spiral bit. Set the depth of cut according to the thickness of the hinge. Don't cut the mortise so deep that it doesn't allow the lid to close at the front of the box.

You'll need to use a chisel to clean up the corners of the mortise to fit the square hinge.

You can do this on a router table just as easily.

damagi · Post by **damagi** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:18 am

overarm pin router?

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 4:21 pm

It would work exactly the same with an overarm pin router, but on a regular router table it's simply inverted.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 5:04 pm

OOPS!!!!! After giving this a second though just now, I can see that the placement of the stop blocks doesn't allow you to cut a mortise where you would want it. So I'll edit the original post and repeat the correction here.

Given the same box, hinge, and bit as used in my example (10", 2", and 1/2" respectively) and wanting to set the hinges 2" in from the box corner, you will need two spacer blocks -- one of 2" width and one of 1 1/2" width. (The 2" block is the distance you want to position the hinge in from the corner of the box and the 1 1/2" spacer bloc is he width of the hinge minus the width of the router bit we're using.)

First, drop the bit to near the surface of the table and place the 2" spacer adjacent to the bit on the left side, then temporarily clamp a stop block next to the spacer, then remove the spacer and raise the bit. Now using the box, place the left size of the box against the stop block and clamp the other stop block to the right of the box. This sets the position where the bit will start to cut the mortise.

Next, remove the box and that stop block you temporarily attached earlier that was to the left of the box and also lower the bit again near the table surface. Place the 1 1/2" spacer blocks adjacent to the bit and on the left side of the bit, and then clamp the stop block to the left of the spacer. This sets the position where the bit will end the mortise.

Reverse the procedures to cut the second hinge mortise.

Sorry for the earlier error.

scollins · Post by **scollins** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 6:33 am

I have the stock Mark 5 set up. I could and have done this type of operation on my router set up, but I like the idea on small stuff of being able to see the line and exactly what is happening. With the right set up it should be a pretty slick operation.

I am thinking maybe a piece of plywood with a couple of tracks. The stop blocks could run in one set and the other would hold a featherboard. Using an up cut bit might be a good improvement. The one time that I expermented with cutting a hinge mortise on the SS I had more chatter than I wanted.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 6:48 am

I would not expect any chatter while cutting hinge mortises.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:36 am

Y'all cutting with the 'side' of the bit or the 'end'? I would use the 'end' for this.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:13 am

For what I described, I'm using the Shopsmith in drill press mode and the bottom of the bit to cut the mortise. You can either lock the bit in place and then pivot the box into the cutter to begin the cut or position the box against the fence, lower the bit into the wood, and then slide the box along the fence to complete the cut. There's so little wood being removed (less than half the thickness of a box hinge) there isn't likely to be any chatter, nor is there a need for a featherboard. Using spacers and stop blocks also works well for accurately drilling the holes for barrel hinges.