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1962 Goldie Disassembly

ddvann79

horologist wroteTime to walk away from it for a while. ...

Wise words. Thanks for the direction, all, and taking time to view that video. Those mental farts come from time to time. You know, when is doesn't dawn on a person that spinning the barrel with the wind direction of the spring is a bad thing to do.

JPG, your technique of reducing the ID of the spring around the shaft is precisely what I was thinking.

I should have taken the time to re-read theinstructions for rebuilding the quill feed. But they never say to keep tension on the spring (page 17). I supposed I assumed it would lock into place.

Can't wait to see those videos on the dustywoodworker channel!

JPG

ddvann79 wroteWise words. Thanks for the direction, all, and taking time to view that video. Those mental farts come from time to time. You know, when is doesn't dawn on a person that spinning the barrel with the wind direction of the spring is a bad thing to do.

JPG, your technique of reducing the ID of the spring around the shaft is precisely what I was thinking.

I should have taken the time to re-read theinstructions for rebuilding the quill feed. But they never say to keep tension on the spring (page 17). I supposed I assumed it would lock into place.

Can't wait to see those videos on the dustywoodworker channel!

Troy said the same thing!

Re Dustywoodworker channel - I do not think they will allow him to post 3 hours of frustration! Sorry Dusty, I could not help myself!;)

[deleted]

ddvann79 wroteIs that it? Keep tension on it? Good grief.

Great video. As dusty suggested, the only procedure your missing is keeping the spring tension preloaded once you've got it on.

ddvann79

Thanks to all of you for your help. I got the quill back together and here's the video on my method for reattaching the quill feed spring correctly. This one's 1:15 long (unlike the last one).

Quill Spring Vid

EDIT: The correct solution to keeping the spring in place on the shaft is to simply hold it in place while inserting the assembly into the headstock. Once assembled, the spring will stay in place. On newer springs the slot is tighter and has better tendency to stay on the stud on the shaft.

Now on to other questions...

ddvann79

When I inherited this SS, there was no flat washer behind the feed stop dial. Just the knurled washers. I added one and the dial is separated from the headstock by about 1/4". Without it, there is still a separation of about 1/8". Is this normal? This is the order in which the quill feed is assembled.

wannabewoodworker

Just read a bunch of your posts on your rebuilding journey. Brings back memories of last winter doing my Mark VII and Mark V. You are doing beautifully and soon you will be finished. When I got my Mark VII and started rebuilding it I learned many of the things you are going through now although I did not have trouble with many of the things you experienced as I used to be a mechanic and this stuff kind of just gets in your blood. The quill feed was an interesting contraption to tackle but once I noodled the design a little bit I figured it out quickly and put that headache to rest. I was going to offer you another spring as I had to purchase another one for my Greenie which had a snapped off spring retaining pin and i did not need the spring from the one I purchased off of Ebay but it looks like you have it back in business. Keep up the good work you are progressing perfectly and soon you will be making dust. I just acquired a band saw today that is in need of some TLC so i will screwing around with it in the coming days.

JPG

ddvann79 wroteWhen I inherited this SS, there was no flat washer behind the feed stop dial. Just the knurled washers. I added one and the dial is separated from the headstock by about 1/4". Without it, there is still a separation of about 1/8". Is this normal? This is the order in which the quill feed is assembled.

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Mickyd's is normal except for all that shine!

We need to see inside the dial. Does the retaining clip clear the housing by about 1/16"? Is the flat 'washer' thin?(.040") Take a pix with the washers and dial etc. removed. Is the flat washer hitting the inside of the dial?

ddvann79

JPG40504 wrote
...We need to see inside the dial. Does the retaining clip clear the housing by about 1/16"? Is the flat 'washer' thin?(.040") Take a pix with the washers and dial etc. removed. Is the flat washer hitting the inside of the dial?

Here's the quill feed without the washer.

And the resulting spacing. This looks "normal" to me compared to photos of other SS.

Here's with the washer.

And the resulting spacing.

Here's the washer. It's 3/32" thick. It was one I had in the shop and filed the ID down to fit. Again, when I picked up the SS it didn't have a washer.

No Washer Stop.jpg

Washer Dial.jpg

No Washer.jpg

nuhobby

FYI, I've seen a few Mark V's working without the washer there, into 1980s vintage. I'm not convinced they were always used -- maybe at least being dropped during a rebuild some time.

Your fabricated washer is certainly thicker than the factory ones. The factory ones are definitely thin.

Sharp looking machine there!

JPG

Notice the washer is nearly as thin as the retaining ring

I noticed something else! Need to 'fix' that!

ddvann79

JPG40504 wroteNotice the washer is nearly as thin as the retaining ring

I noticed something else! Need to 'fix' that!

Fix what?!

wa2crk

Is there a crack in the spring housing or is it one of my "optical delusions"?

Bill V

JPG

ddvann79 wroteFix what?!

I needed to fix the original post where you got that pix. The index mark is not positioned properly(in my pix).

ddvann79

JPG40504 wroteI needed to fix the original post where you got that pix. The index mark is not positioned properly(in my pix).

Well, that depends upon where it was originally, right? Or is it supposed to always be straight up? If I recall, Nick talked about marking it's location on the headstock and putting it back where it was. Incidentally, mine's not.

Bill V,

I did a double take after posting that photo. It does look like a crack but it's actually a stain where the barrel sat in some REALLY old Evaporust that didn't cover the whole assembly. It's a "high water mark" as it were and I didn't feel compelled to sand it off.

JPG

ddvann79 wroteWell, that depends upon where it was originally, right? Or is it supposed to always be straight up? If I recall, Nick talked about marking it's location on the headstock and putting it back where it was. Incidentally, mine's not.

Bill V,

I did a double take after posting that photo. It does look like a crack but it's actually a stain where the barrel sat in some REALLY old Evaporust that didn't cover the whole assembly. It's a "high water mark" as it were and I didn't feel compelled to sand it off.

Surprise!!! I checked my Goldie. Guess what! No skinny flat washer!!!!!!P.S. My original manual shows one!!!!!!!!!!!!!

???? I do not know why Nick said to mark??? To me it is a matter of visibility in both the hor and vert positions.

ddvann79

She came back to life tonight but there is still a problem. I turned it on and she ran beautifully. Everything sounded pretty smooth. I turned the speeddial up and it was smooth and easy to turn. I got up to high speed and WHACK! The control sheave hit the back of the pork chop. I powered it down quickly and I don't think there is any real damage. The dial is stiff now. I think that's because the worm screw is now pushed to one side of the rack - probably the side that's worn.

I figure the quadrant fingers are now bent and I'll have to pull it out and see what I can do. In this photo, you can see where it hit the control sheave. Also, you can see how off centered the pork chop is.

Here's avideoof the SECOND time I powered it up. Please let me know what you think is going on here. I have not yet made the high speed adjustment.

When I installed the dial, it would stop at "slow" but wouldn't go all the way around to "fast" when turning the shaft by hand. I think I installed the dial incorrectly and that allowed the quadrant to travel too far but I'm not sure yet. I was a bit concerned about where that groove in the back of the dial was placed when I assembled it but I haven't really found any instructions that clearly explains where it should be placed in relation to the speed indication mark. In other words, the groove in the back of the dial doesn't travel all the way around and I wasn't sure which side of the groove the retention spring was supposed to go. You can see in the last photo below the speeddial is clearly not in the right place for being at the low end of the speed range.

Here's some shots of the headstock mostly put together.

dusty

Your Goldie looks great, Dalton. It doesn't sound bad either.

You need to do a "High Speed Adjust". The stop is set at the wrong location and it allows the speed control to cause the sheave to travel too far.

As for being harder to turn at some locations, you might need to clean, lubricate or even file smooth some of the teeth in the pork chop. The worm gear is hardened steel. The pork chop is not. Therefore when their is a collision, the pork chop losses.

BTW - I love this video insert approach (YouTube) for communication this sort of information. You've got the process nailed.

I'm almost there. I need to develop the ability to improve the audio. I have Audacity on my computer but have no yet learned how to use it.

JPG

You need to do a high speed adjustment.(limits high speed position of control sheave)

You can do a rough setting by adjusting the jam nut/stop screw so the top of the screw is flush with the top of the jam nut.

The dial position is the last thing done during the high speed adjustment.

Your dial is mispositioned since the slow limit(the closest the control sheave can be 'pushed') indicates 'down' past the slow position on the dial.

I assume you have seen this, but in case not, begin about 09:30.

ddvann79

Thanks, Dusty and JPG.

I'm very pleased at how it sounds. I took the time to file down rough edges, dents and irregularities as well as smoothing out the casting and carefully lubricating. I was concerned about how well the motor would run since there were a few burn marks on the stator, and it still has yet to be put under a load. There are several things I would like to have done differently, given more experience and additional time. All things considered, I'm quite pleased with the headstock thus far, especially since the most experience I have with machinery is changing a timing belt or "bailing wire" fixes on farm equipment.

JPG,

No, I hadn't watched Sawdust Session #17. I mostly hung out around 21 - 24. I did, however have access to these instructions on replacing the speed changer, and this one on the high-speed adjustment.

So here's what I think I need to do, if I understand correctly:

Assess and remedy any damage to the quadrant
Adjust the height of the set screw relative to the jam nut
Align the speedial correctly.

Will that rough adjustment of the set screw keep the control sheave from contacting the quadrant assembly during this process?

Speed Changer Diagram.JPG

JPG

ddvann79 wroteThanks, Dusty and JPG.

I'm very pleased at how it sounds. I took the time to file down rough edges, dents and irregularities as well as smoothing out the casting and carefully lubricating. I was concerned about how well the motor would run since there were a few burn marks on the stator, and it still has yet to be put under a load. There are several things I would like to have done differently, given more experience and additional time. All things considered, I'm quite pleased with the headstock thus far, especially since the most experience I have with machinery is changing a timing belt or "bailing wire" fixes on farm equipment.

JPG,

No, I hadn't watched Sawdust Session #17. I mostly hung out around 21 - 24. I did, however have access to these instructions on [url=http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:void%28window.open%28%27/svcadv/replacingthespeedchanger.PDF%27,%20%27%27,%20%27width=640,height=480,resizeable,scrollbars%27%29%29]replacing the speed changer[/url], and this one on the [url=http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:void%28window.open%28%27/svcadv/howtodoahighspeedadjustment.PDF%27,%20%27%27,%20%27width=640,height=480,resizeable,scrollbars%27%29%29]high-speed adjustment.[/url]

So here's what I think I need to do, if I understand correctly:

1. Assess and remedy any damage to the quadrant

2. Adjust the height of the set screw relative to the jam nut

3. Align the speedial correctly.

Will that rough adjustment of the set screw keep the control sheave from contacting the quadrant assembly during this process?

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No Guarantees from me, however that is the 'factory setting' when new. You should be able to run it up under manual power to determine amount of 'clearance'. Wear is a factor regarding 'guarantee'! When correct(also depends on belt length/width/wear) it should stop close to or just past slow going down in speed.

BTW that groove on the rear you mentioned earlier. The anti rattle spring should provide 'extra' drag as it is adjusted above saw-joint. That is where the groove 'ends'.

P.S. Yer links above are 'broken'!

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