Pro Planer Conversion

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ryanbp01
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Pro Planer Conversion

Post by ryanbp01 »

How difficult is it to convert a Pro Planer from one mounted to a Mark V to one mounted on it's own stand?

BPR
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kartoffelkopf
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Post by kartoffelkopf »

45 minutes. Done.
Kartoffelkopf… because no one expects much from a potato head.

SS 520, Power Station, scroll saw, Pro Planer, DeWalt 746 Table Saw w/ Jointech cabinet maker's system, Jet JJ6CSX jointer, Jet 22-44 Closed Base Drum Sander, Grizzly G0513P Bandsaw, Powermatic PM1300 Dust Collector
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

ryanbp01 wrote:How difficult is it to convert a Pro Planer from one mounted to a Mark V to one mounted on it's own stand?

BPR
Very interesting question. My gut reaction was that it could not be hard. All one would have to do is apply power; presumably from a motor via a belt drive and of course create an appropriate stand.

I'll be watching this thread for tips.
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pennview
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Post by pennview »

Here are a couple of photos of a planer attached to a simple stand. The top measures 24 x 24" and it stands about 32" high including the casters. The motor is a Harbor Freight 2 HP, 3450 RPM.

The top is two thicknesses of particle board glued and screwed together, with the lower one being about 22 1/2" x 22 1/2", which allows for screwing the legs to the top.

Each leg is made from two piece of hardwood about 3/4" thick, one is 3 1/4" wide the other 4" and they're glued together in the form of an "L". The motor is attached by bolts to a piece of plywood that in turn is hinged to a horizontal brace that runs between two of the legs. All of this is sized and located according to motor, pulleys and belts you use.

The planer itself bolts to the top with two bolts. A slot is cut in the top for the belts.

That vertical piece of wood under the motor is simply there to prop up the motor when not in use. When removed, the weight of the motor puts tension on the belt.
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8iowa
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Post by 8iowa »

I purchased a MK V mounted planer back in '84, one of the early models. It is now in the Upper Peninsula mounted to a Shopsmith power stand. Getting the motor situated so the pulleys are in the same plane, with one directly over the other is a little tedious, but the more accurately you can do this the less vibration you will incur.

The Shopsmith stand comes with steel sheaves. I eventually had a problem with the motor sheave throwing it's key. Replacement with cast iron sheaves was a big improvement.
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