1962 Goldie Disassembly

Forum for Maintenance and Repair topics. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

Moderator: admin

User avatar
ddvann79
Gold Member
Posts: 403
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:34 am
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

Casting Defect

Post by ddvann79 »

Notice anything? Anybody see any future problems here? I'm assuming it came from the factory this way.

[ATTACH]11858[/ATTACH]
Attachments
IMG02353-20110208-1819.jpg
IMG02353-20110208-1819.jpg (134.17 KiB) Viewed 3758 times
Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
User avatar
SDSSmith
Platinum Member
Posts: 1940
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:35 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Post by SDSSmith »

ddvann79 wrote:Notice anything? Anybody see any future problems here? I'm assuming it came from the factory this way.

[ATTACH]11858[/ATTACH]
I have seen quite a few machines. I have never seen an arm casting like that. I would install the back way tube first to use as a reference for the front way tube. I would also make sure that you have your set screws tight (no need for a cheater, just tight). Must have been a bad casting that was machined on a Monday or a Friday. Or (can't tell) did the machinist just bore the hole for the front way tube too deep?
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
User avatar
ddvann79
Gold Member
Posts: 403
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:34 am
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

Post by ddvann79 »

SDSSmith wrote:... did the machinist just bore the hole for the front way tube too deep?
[/font][/SIZE]
Don't think so. It appears to me to be either a broken casting or an incomplete pour. It didn't look like the rough, textured edges of a break to me. A very small part of the seat is there but not much. When the tube is inserted, it feels like it bottoms out all at once instead of sliding against uneven sides so maybe it's fine. Dad never mentioned it and I bet he never knew.

EDIT: I solved the casting problem in the base arm by measuring the depth of the stop in the good side and measured the depth in the bad one. I marked the tube with a pencil and made sure it seated to the same depth in the bad casting side. There was just enough of a seat left in the casting that it bottomed out at the correct position.
Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 31883
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (WILDCAT territory)

Post by JPG »

Measure the bore depth to the 'stop' on both bores. If the stop remnants are dimensionally correct I totally agree with rob. Keep in mind that loose tube setscrews are a common 'manufacturing defect'. Just be sure to snug them down.

Looking REAL good!!!

P.S. BTW the endcastings have countersink holes. Original had oval head screws(like flat head with curved top). Also internal tooth lock washers recommended there(not used originally, but current models do). How cum the pan head(used what was 'available'?)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
ddvann79
Gold Member
Posts: 403
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:34 am
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

Almost Done

Post by ddvann79 »

JPG,

Yes, I had the pan heads on hand so that's what I used. I'm very ready to be done with this project.

Here's what I got done last night. All that's left is the new motor and finish assembling the miter gauge. Then... sawdust! Well, clean up the shop, then sawdust.

[ATTACH]11910[/ATTACH]
Attachments
Almost Done.jpg
Almost Done.jpg (160.12 KiB) Viewed 3742 times
Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 31883
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (WILDCAT territory)

Post by JPG »

ddvann79 wrote:JPG,

Yes, I had the pan heads on hand so that's what I used. I'm very ready to be done with this project.

Here's what I got done last night. All that's left is the new motor and finish assembling the miter gauge. Then... sawdust! Well, clean up the shop, then sawdust.

[ATTACH]11910[/ATTACH]
She's really looking good! BTW the original bench tubes were painted gray hammertone!:rolleyes: I understand yer impatience. I gots three in process!:(
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 31883
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (WILDCAT territory)

Post by JPG »

ddvann79 wrote:JPG,

Yes, I had the pan heads on hand so that's what I used. I'm very ready to be done with this project.

Here's what I got done last night. All that's left is the new motor and finish assembling the miter gauge. Then... sawdust! Well, clean up the shop, then sawdust.

[ATTACH]11910[/ATTACH]
She's really looking good! BTW the original bench tubes were painted gray hammertone!:rolleyes: I understand yer impatience. I gots three in process!:(
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
ddvann79
Gold Member
Posts: 403
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:34 am
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

Post by ddvann79 »

JPG40504 wrote:... BTW the original bench tubes were painted gray hammertone!
I noticed that before I stripped the bench tubes but I didn't like the dull finish. I thought about using the chrome Rustoleum paint but was concerned about chipping. So I may apply a few coats of enamel but I don't think I'll paint them. From my limited experience, spray paint just doesn't hold up like factory finishes, even with careful prep work. For now they are polished with paste wax.
Dalton
Fort Worth, Texas
1962 MK 5 #373733 Goldie
User avatar
robinson46176
Platinum Member
Posts: 4166
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)

Post by robinson46176 »

ddvann79 wrote:I noticed that before I stripped the bench tubes but I didn't like the dull finish. I thought about using the chrome Rustoleum paint but was concerned about chipping. So I may apply a few coats of enamel but I don't think I'll paint them. From my limited experience, spray paint just doesn't hold up like factory finishes, even with careful prep work. For now they are polished with paste wax.


That reminds me. I was wondering if the "new" Mark VII has chromed tubes? One picture I saw looked like it did. Or would chromed way tubes be too slick for the locks? Might be nice to get bench tubes chromed... There is a bumper plating business here in town that I assume could do them. Might be too pricey.


.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 31883
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (WILDCAT territory)

Post by JPG »

robinson46176 wrote:That reminds me. I was wondering if the "new" Mark VII has chromed tubes? One picture I saw looked like it did. Or would chromed way tubes be too slick for the locks? Might be nice to get bench tubes chromed... There is a bumper plating business here in town that I assume could do them. Might be too pricey.


.

The 'new' one is a Mark 7! I know yer old one(Mark VII) also says that.:D

I think 'slick highly polished chrome' would be less than ideal. My old Goldie supposedly has chromed way tubes, but it be far far away from 'smooth and polished'. Still has visible grinding marks from original mfg after all these years. Wax works!

Those I have 'restored' are much smoother. Carriages and headstocks slide much easier. Will be interesting to see how those Goldie tubes 'polish up'(when its time comes:o).

I have noticed a difference in the metal used in the old Model 10(I assume raw steel) and the 'newer/thinner' ones. I believe they are plated, but shine up real nicely.

Shiney polished bench tubes would require using tinted safety glasses if working out doors on a sunny day!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Post Reply