Oops....didn't read the message close enough. I primed EVERYTHING except the aluminum parts indicated in this post. So far they are holding up fine BUT....I don't have enough abusive miles on them to make a conclusion.JPG40504 wrote:That is the paint he used! I believe he primed it also!
Where you at Mike?????? You OK????
Restoration Progress On My 1955 Greenie
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- mickyd
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Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
Thanks for the info on the paint. I made the mistake of using paint that I matched at a paint store and painted my whole shopsmith with a brush. Then I got on this sight and saw how it should have been done from Mike. My question is do I have to strip all the paint back off and start over or can I get the correct paint and just paint over what I have already done?
Thanks, Barry
Thanks, Barry
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bshaff wrote: My question is do I have to strip all the paint back off and start over or can I get the correct paint and just paint over what I have already done?
Thanks, Barry
Barry deep down you know the answer to this question. Welcome to the forum and get to stripping.
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Mark
2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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Mark
2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
- JPG
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Citrusstrip!!!!!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Barry, I'm less inclined to suggest stripping your new paint if you feel like you got good adhesion with the brushed-on paint. If you don't feel like stripping the whole thing (I highly recommend Citrustrip) you might get away with wet-dry sanding the brush strokes out of the paint and then apply the Rustoleum spray paint. First, most of those castings (except maybe the miter gauge and trunnion) should be fine with three or four coats of paint without looking thick. Second, the Rustoleum would likely only require one coat. Primer would not be necessary. However, sanding that much paint may be just slightly less work than stripping the whole thing. It will also depend on how thickly you applied the brushed-on paint.bshaff wrote:...My question is do I have to strip all the paint back off and start over or can I get the correct paint and just paint over what I have already done?
The instructionsstate "Preparation: Remove loose paint and rust with a wire brush or sandpaper. Lightly sand glossy surfaces. Clean with soap and water, rinse and let dry."
If you chose to go this route, I would suggest testing an area like the inside of one of the legs and see how it works. Maybe sand off an area and lay on a coat of Hammered Verde Green and by morning you should have a pretty good idea of whether that's the route you want to take.
I think you will definitely be pleased with the result of the Rustoleum product.
- mickyd
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The purist mickyd says..................'Paint over it!!' (My standards are going down the tubes since I've been so busy lately!!)bshaff wrote:Thanks for the info on the paint. I made the mistake of using paint that I matched at a paint store and painted my whole shopsmith with a brush. Then I got on this sight and saw how it should have been done from Mike. My question is do I have to strip all the paint back off and start over or can I get the correct paint and just paint over what I have already done?
Thanks, Barry
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
Thanks for all the help. I think I will try some on the inside of the leg first and see how it turns out. I sure don't like the idea of stripping it all off. I will have to completely tear it all down again in order to paint it properly so that will be enough work.
One more question: I have recently rebuilt the headstock but did not change the bearings in the motor. How would I tell if they needed to be changed. Now when it runs it sounds like the shaft is turning on sand. I have had this machine for some time and used it with no problem. The people I got it from took excellent care of it. Any info will be helpful. If I am going to tear it all apart again I need to know if I should go ahead and change the bearing.
Barry
One more question: I have recently rebuilt the headstock but did not change the bearings in the motor. How would I tell if they needed to be changed. Now when it runs it sounds like the shaft is turning on sand. I have had this machine for some time and used it with no problem. The people I got it from took excellent care of it. Any info will be helpful. If I am going to tear it all apart again I need to know if I should go ahead and change the bearing.
Barry
- JPG
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bshaff wrote:Thanks for all the help. I think I will try some on the inside of the leg first and see how it turns out. I sure don't like the idea of stripping it all off. I will have to completely tear it all down again in order to paint it properly so that will be enough work.
One more question: I have recently rebuilt the headstock but did not change the bearings in the motor. How would I tell if they needed to be changed. Now when it runs it sounds like the shaft is turning on sand. I have had this machine for some time and used it with no problem. The people I got it from took excellent care of it. Any info will be helpful. If I am going to tear it all apart again I need to know if I should go ahead and change the bearing.
Barry
How freely/smoothly does the motor shaft turn by hand? It should be vibration free and exhibit a slight drag(internal grease). If 'gritty', rough, or too free, replacing them would be indicated.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- mickyd
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The Amazon link showing $12 per can is WAY overpriced. I can get it for less than $5 a can here in San Diego. If you can't get single cans at your local Home Depot, buy their 6-pack for $30.ddvann79 wrote:Barry, I'm less inclined to suggest stripping your new paint if you feel ........
If you chose to go this route, I would suggest testing an area like the inside of one of the legs and see how it works. Maybe sand off an area and lay on a coat of Hammered Verde Green and by morning you should have a pretty good idea of whether that's the route you want to take.
I think you will definitely be pleased with the result of the Rustoleum product.
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
Agreed, but if he can't find Verde Green locally, he'll have to source it elsewhere.mickyd wrote:The Amazon link showing $12 per can is WAY overpriced. I can get it for less than $5 a can here in San Diego. If you can't get single cans at your local Home Depot, buy their 6-pack for $30.