Having a welded nut in the tube won't eliminate rotational force at all. That's true. But it gives you much greater clamping forces to the shaft and larger contact surface. You can really reef down on a bolt going through a welded in nut there. To the point you could easily break the aluminum casting.algale wrote:Hmm. What about a series of closely spaced through-holes, just large enough to accept the thread]
Threaded through holes aren't very good. You lose the clamping force entirely, and you have to space the holes further apart on the shaft.
But look at this image.
See how the set screws are tapered at the tip? If the piece they screw into has a tapered hole to match, the screws lock in place. When new, the set screws effectively cut a grove to lock themselves into. After a few uses, they lose that ability and don't hold nearly as well in a new location.
Interesting. Not sure that this would necessarily work since you still have a rotational force.
Tool Rest Arm Rotation
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foxtrapper
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I see from the part numbers, you are using those lever-locks to clamp the horizontal arm to the upright, not the regular setscrews. I don't have any lever-locks so I don't know what the tip looks like, but I took a look at the setscrew on my 510 and it indeed is one of those with a serrated end. It's also likely that these setscrews grip better than the lever-locks because you can apply more torque with the long allen wrench.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
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Serrated, cupped - IMHO both bad. A domed end will grip very securely without scarring the tube(much).
Earlier versions had more of them and very few cupped/serrated screws.
IMHO the biting type are ok for seldom loosened/tightened uses, but where repetitive adjusting is done, the softer ends are mandatory. The quill shaft is the most obvious, the tool rest a much less obvious one.
Earlier versions had more of them and very few cupped/serrated screws.
IMHO the biting type are ok for seldom loosened/tightened uses, but where repetitive adjusting is done, the softer ends are mandatory. The quill shaft is the most obvious, the tool rest a much less obvious one.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Actually, my arm must have been made during the transition between set screws and lever locks; it came with the set screws installed and the lever arms in a bag as an upgrade. Thinking the set screws might work better, I've tried both and found no difference in terms of arm rotation whether I am using the lever locks or the set screws.pennview wrote:I see from the part numbers, you are using those lever-locks to clamp the horizontal arm to the upright, not the regular setscrews. I don't have any lever-locks so I don't know what the tip looks like, but I took a look at the setscrew on my 510 and it indeed is one of those with a serrated end. It's also likely that these setscrews grip better than the lever-locks because you can apply more torque with the long allen wrench.
I agree...not terribly happy about it. I ended up getting a UTR because of the issue, though I think its pretty sad overall. I have had it happen on a number of different shopsmiths, so I know its not just one. However, all were used so I don't really have any recourse I guess.algale wrote:YIKES! You sound fortunate not to have been injured. I hate to say it, but if Shopsmith knows this is an issue with the design of the tool rest they are really asking for another products liability suit someday.
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup
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-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw
-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
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swampgator
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You gents have just scared the pants off me.
Here I was reading up and watching videos on turning with all the safety items to consider. Now, I read this. Will be looking into my systems to see what I can do. Will also be watching to see what solutions you propose and trying to adapt. Thanks for this thread. 
Steve, the old Florida gator
I just love it when she says I can go make sawdust.

I just love it when she says I can go make sawdust.
Have ya cleaned the top of #293? To clean off any oil or wax.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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A What??????damagi wrote:I agree...not terribly happy about it. I ended up getting a UTR because of the issue, though I think its pretty sad overall. I have had it happen on a number of different shopsmiths, so I know its not just one. However, all were used so I don't really have any recourse I guess.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
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Ahhhhh So!beeg wrote:Universal Tool Rest.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
