Paint stripper

scooter61 · Post by **scooter61** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 3:54 pm

Just got an old armoir that someone painted white. Whats the best paint stripper out there?

kd6vpe · Post by **kd6vpe** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 5:18 pm

Owww,
I can't wait to see this thread. I just got an old rolltop desk that needs alot of work and replacement wood. I used a can of old QRP stripper that did an OK job. My wife bought it on an infomercial about 6 years ago and hadn't used all of it yet. It is environmentally safe. She is really into that stuff.I will try to post pics of the project as I go along Can't wait to see what all of you have to say about this subject.

garys · Post by **garys** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:08 pm

I've yet to meet a chemical paint stripper I like. Hopefully someone here has an answer for us.
Whenever possible, I strip old finishes with a small orbital sander. For the odd shaped pieces, I use chemical stripper, but it always has been an awful mess to clean up after stripping.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 9:14 pm

I like cirtusstrip. Environmentally friendly, works reasonably fast. Safe to touch!

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 11:03 pm

I second Citrusstrip. Had great results from it when I was working on my Mark V. I haven't used it on wood, but I don't know if that would make a difference.

michaeltoc · Post by **michaeltoc** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 6:12 am

I've never used Citrusstrip - i've only used the nasty stuff with methylene chloride. Whatever you choose, the important thing is to get a "semi-paste". Liquid is too thin and dries out before it has a chance to work.

jimsjinx · Post by **jimsjinx** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:27 pm

I am a proffessional paint stripper. I have a small shop that my specialty is chemical stripping. A word of caution here. Most good strippers contain Methelyne Chloride, a nasty but effective stripper. In the old days, caustic soda and hot water was used to soak the finish off the wood. Damage was usually quite bad from this chemical. Even though cheap and effective for antibellum heart pine doors, we don't use it for furniture anymore, due to damage to glue joints, darkening the wood considerably, and warpage. Most of us now use what is called a "Flow-Over" system. This involves a rapidly evaporating solvent with Methylene Chloride, alchohol, and acetone. A surfactant, or "soap" is added, to aid in rinsing the residue off the wood, as it must be gently power washed to neutralize the stripper. Also, a parrafin or wax is added to slow down evaporation. This solvent stripper is poured into a 5 gallon bucket, to charge the explosion proof pump, and then it is pumped through a chemical resistant hose with a scrub brush on the end. The furniture is placed in a slanted 4'X8' tray, with a drain in the deep end. As the stripper does its work, it flows through the system, all the time you add stripper to compensate for evaporation and absorbsion into the wood. This stuff will hurt like the devil if you get it on you, and if not washed off immediately, will burn tissue badly! ( ask me bout' the time I lifted a grandfather clock case out of the tank, and soaked my junk with this stuff!!!) The stuff I use is about $70.00 for 5 gallons, and some states won't even let you bring it into your state anymore! A standard dresser, with drawers can take 10 to 15 gallons. If you want something done that is valuable, or has veneer on it, this is the most effective and safe way to do it. (safe for the wood, that is!) If you must use a paste stripper available to the public, I'd reccomend Clean Strip brand, in the can labeled "Fastest". About $27.00 a gallon around here. (Another brand, is Bix Strip, but it is very weak, and not for paint.) You brush it on an area, and let it cut the finish, and carefully scrape the residue off with a VERY DULL putty knife. To get the paint out of the grain, you must scrub it out with an "afterwash". You can mix it up yourself using acetone, denatured alcohol, and mineral spirits. A brass bristled brush works well, but scrub with the grain. You will have to add acetone as it evaporates, and it is easy to tell when you need more. It won't cut the paint! If I had to give you GOOD advise, I'd tell you to take it to someone who does this sort of work every day. There are tons of nice strip jobs done with DIY chemicals, but it is very labor intensive, and I have seen pieces that could not be saved due to many DIY rush jobs. Drop me a PM if I can help you more on the phone. Please wear goggles and long sleeves, and, of course, chemical proof gloves! Latex and nitril gloves won't last 2 minutes! jimsjinx

jimsjinx · Post by **jimsjinx** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:35 pm

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that you can use planer chips to scrub off the stripper paste after it has done most of its job. Just grab a handfull of chips, and scrub the surface. It will not look like it's gonna work at first, but keep scrubbing, and grabbing more chips, and as the paste gets thicker from evaporation, the slime will start to adhere to the chips. I learned this from Ed Feldman, one of the "Furniture Guys" on HGTV years ago.(He's a Nut!) Joe Larario was the other half of that great show. I think they had a show called "Two men in tool belts", as well. Two very smart resto guys in Philly. Good luck, and PM me anytime! jimsjinx

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:29 pm

Orrrrr you can use oven cleaner(lye/caustic soda)!:D

Me I'll stick with oj acid(citrusstrip)!

scooter61 · Post by **scooter61** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 11:57 am

Thanks for the ideas havent started yet will let everyone know how it turns out.
Thank you jimsjinx for the offer to pm you when I start will probably do that once again thanks.

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