Kerf-Keeper(s) needed

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

Moderator: admin

Post Reply
User avatar
robinson46176
Platinum Member
Posts: 4182
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)

Post by robinson46176 »

SDSSmith wrote:Here is a KerfKeeper picture in Popular Mechanics.


Yes Rob, That is exactly what I have and was trying with limited success to describe not too long ago. Thanks...

I think that the bolt is too big for some thin kerf blades. Maybe that is why they discontinued it?


.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
Top
foxtrapper
Gold Member
Posts: 439
Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:05 am

Post by foxtrapper »

Easily made with some scrap wedge pieces of wood. Not important with plywood usually, because it doesn't pull back on itself. But it can be right handy when cutting along the grain of a board that closes itself.
Top
User avatar
dusty
Platinum Member
Posts: 21530
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Post by dusty »

Side Bar Please:

When ripping a board that closes on itself, what procedure do you follow to get the kerf keeper installed so that you can continue on with the rip?


You cannot pull the partially cut board back at you without begging for a kickback because of the closure.

You could but I don't recommend lifting the board up and off of the blade UNLESS the saw has been turned off.

If you leave the board in place and turn the saw off and then install the kerf keeper, are there any special precautions to take when you turn the saw back on?
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Top
User avatar
wa2crk
Platinum Member
Posts: 3080
Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 7:37 am
Location: Leesburg, Fl

Post by wa2crk »

Why can't you use a tapered shim as a kerf keeper? When I rip some southern yellow pine I put a shim in the kerf and it helps a lot. Packages of shims are available at most home centers.
Bill V
Top
User avatar
dusty
Platinum Member
Posts: 21530
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Post by dusty »

wa2crk wrote:Why can't you use a tapered shim as a kerf keeper? When I rip some southern yellow pine I put a shim in the kerf and it helps a lot. Packages of shims are available at most home centers.
Bill V
Same questions though.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Top
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35598
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:Side Bar Please:

When ripping a board that closes on itself, what procedure do you follow to get the kerf keeper installed so that you can continue on with the rip?


You cannot pull the partially cut board back at you without begging for a kickback because of the closure.

You could but I don't recommend lifting the board up and off of the blade UNLESS the saw has been turned off.

If you leave the board in place and turn the saw off and then install the kerf keeper, are there any special precautions to take when you turn the saw back on?

I see that as a safety problem also! I think I would prefer a stationary one near the back of the blade.

Perhaps somebody got hurt trying any of those methods you suggested and went to court. That would explain its current absence.


Ever notice what an x-ray tech does just prior to 'turning their machine on'?:D
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Top
User avatar
wa2crk
Platinum Member
Posts: 3080
Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 7:37 am
Location: Leesburg, Fl

Post by wa2crk »

Dusty
#1 use a tapered shim

#2 Don't do that

#3 Don't do that either

#4 stop the machine and back the board out of the cut a few inches and install the shim. Restart the machine and continue the cut. The saw should start without binding if it is properly aligned

If the board is very long a helper is useful to install the shim. Don't use a lot of pressure just enough to keep the kerf from closing
Bill
Top
User avatar
robinson46176
Platinum Member
Posts: 4182
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)

Post by robinson46176 »

One thing that I believe has not been covered on the Pony Kerf-keeper is that it was I believe originally made for power hand saw applications and much more than keeping the kerf from closing it served to keep the cut off piece (often sheet goods) from dropping as the cut progressed. Did that make sense? If you lay a sheet on a table with say 12" hanging over the side of the table and start cutting that 12" X maybe 8' off of the sheet by the time you get 2/3rds of the way along the cut the cut off part behind you will start to sag and has to be supported either by something else of you reach back and hold it up. With the Pony Kerf-keeper it physically clamps the cut off part to the original sheet. Keeping the kerf open is less important with a hand saw than supporting the cut piece.

BTW, I use wedges at the table saw like several others

.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
Top
User avatar
robinson46176
Platinum Member
Posts: 4182
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)

Post by robinson46176 »

OK, here is a question for the group... If I am a woodworker with a woodshop why on earth would I go buy wooden wedges??? :D If I can't cut a few wedges what kind of project am I going to be able to make? :rolleyes: :)

Sorry, had to ask that one. :)


.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
Top
User avatar
beeg
Platinum Member
Posts: 4790
Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2007 2:33 pm
Location: St. Louis,Mo.

Post by beeg »

robinson46176 wrote:OK, here is a question for the group... If I am a woodworker with a woodshop why on earth would I go buy wooden wedges??? :D If I can't cut a few wedges what kind of project am I going to be able to make? :rolleyes:

Sorry, had to ask that one. :)


.
But Farmer what wood you use, power tools or hand tools to cut em. :D
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.
Bob
Top
Post Reply

Return to “Woodworking Tool Review”