Double tilt

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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

JPG40504 wrote:Made a few 'alterations' to an end casting.
[ATTACH]12494[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]12495[/ATTACH]
Knob is a damaged 10E with new screw inserted.

[ATTACH]12496[/ATTACH]
Hinge pin drilled/tapped 1/4-20, ftat washer and screw(5/32) hex.

[ATTACH]12497[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]12498[/ATTACH]
The casting wall is thin, I will add a tapped plate to beef it up.

Less said about the 'extra' hole the better!:rolleyes: It will secure the beef plate!:D
One down, one to go. Then you get to cut the teeth on the other side of the table support legs. Or once tilted the other way, you could remove and reverse the carriage.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

I drove out the tapered pins that secure the table support legs to the table bar and rotated the support legs.

Would not want to do this every time I wanted to change tilt direction but it worked once.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

SDSSmith wrote:One down, one to go. Then you get to cut the teeth on the other side of the table support legs. Or once tilted the other way, you could remove and reverse the carriage.


Orrrr two carriages!:D

Orrr two tables(one with reversed posts).

Actually this has been an exercise to see what could be done. I do not have a reversing headstock. Future reference!!!!!! When I refurb the Goldie, a reversible motor may be in its future.:)

One of the goals was to not modify the casting in away that would make it not able to go back to normal function.

BTW the old pin hole in the hinge pin can be used as a way to prevent rotation of the pin while tightening/loosening the (new) end screws.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
BigSky
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Post by BigSky »

How about a "Mark 7 Upgrade Kit"?
MarkFive510
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

How about a picture of a Mark 7 or a conversion sat at left tilt with a sanding disk on it and a average height person standing next to the headstock? :cool:

(with the legs on it) :-)


.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

robinson46176 wrote:How about a picture of a Mark 7 or a conversion sat at left tilt with a sanding disk on it and a average height person standing next to the headstock? :cool:

(with the legs on it) :-)


.

Whose 'average'? Not u n me!:D

I'm about the length of a band saw blade! ;>}
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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peterm
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Post by peterm »

JPG, could you provide these two dimensions. tia!
[ATTACH]13223[/ATTACH]
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Image6.jpg
Image6.jpg (62.07 KiB) Viewed 5291 times
Peter
a 510,a Mini, dedicated SS drillpress, SS spt's, home made SS belt grinder, SS piston air system, Southbend 10k lathe, mill/drill, Taig
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

prmindartmouth wrote:JPG, could you provide these two dimensions. tia!
[ATTACH]13223[/ATTACH]

1/2" from the edge. Centered L-R.

The knob was a Model 10 table height lock that had a broken brass stud. I removed the brass stud and replaced it with a steel cut off 3/8-16 screw. the conical end was ground/filed.

I would not use this without beefing up the thin web that the screw is in presently. It served as a prototype/conceptual experiment. My thinking is a 1/4" aluminum(or steel) plate that continues the threads already in the web.

P.S. The 'extra' tapped hole was a 'goof'!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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peterm
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Post by peterm »

Nice execution of your "experiment". It got me thinking.
Buy a hinge section for,say, $20 incl shipping off you know where and convert one of my two 510's permanently.
Or buy an extra table and reverse it's legs, likely cost $150 plus. Or, cheaper yet, make the legs of one existing table easily reverseable, perhaps not that easy to do. Any advise on that thought?

Or probably best of all, order the real Mccoy from Shopsmith, who seem to have done an excellent job of designing this extra capability for the SS.
So many projects, so little time!;)
Peter
a 510,a Mini, dedicated SS drillpress, SS spt's, home made SS belt grinder, SS piston air system, Southbend 10k lathe, mill/drill, Taig
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

[quote="prmindartmouth"]Nice execution of your "experiment". It got me thinking.
Buy a hinge section for,say, $50 incl shipping off you know where and convert one of my two 510's permanently.
Or buy an extra table and reverse it's legs, likely cost $150 plus. Or, cheaper yet, make the legs of one existing table easily reverseable, perhaps not that easy to do. Any advise on that thought?

Or probably best of all, order the real Mccoy from Shopsmith, who seem to have done an excellent job of designing this extra capability for the SS.
So many projects, so little time!]

Reversing the legs is not difficult. Simply drive out the pins, rotate the legs and reinsert the pin. I recommend a new pin though I have changed mine twice using the same pin.

The number of times that you can do this is, IMO, limited.

Without a reversible motor, I see very little utility in the left tilt; all you gain is an under the table router (which I have now).
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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