Jointer Repair

jcraigie · Post by **jcraigie** » Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:19 pm

Anyone ever tried the "alunameld" type of stuff? It''s supposed to be really strong (30,000 #'s). It's a little pricey but not to bad if you look around. I have a cracked carriage that I'm going to try it on so I'll let you know what I come up with.

thegovernor11 · Post by **thegovernor11** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 5:42 am

Can you please post pictures of your situation? I think in may solve my issue that I'm having with the in-feed table not adjusting.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:15 am

jcraigie wrote:Anyone ever tried the "alunameld" type of stuff? It''s supposed to be really strong (30,000 #'s). It's a little pricey but not to bad if you look around. I have a cracked carriage that I'm going to try it on so I'll let you know what I come up with.

I have had good luck using products from http://www.aluminumrepair.com/ to weld aluminum parts. Even and plenty of heat on all parts is what is needed to get a good joint. advoid hot spots. You may need to groove the parts beening welded so there is room for the weld to set beteen the parts. There are Videos at the above web site. No everyone can be a welder.

2bits · Post by **2bits** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:46 pm

Here are a couple attempts at adding photos I am not use to this version of windows photoshop. I will do gooder next time:D [ATTACH]16948[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16949[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16950[/ATTACH]

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 10:02 pm

I think I would start by removing the nut/washers/springs that secure the infeed to the outfeed table. That will allow separating them so as to ascertain why there is no movement and avoid over stressing the adjustment parts.

Oooops! I was thinking of a different thread!

thegovernor11 · Post by **thegovernor11** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 6:06 pm

Thanks for posting those pictures. Figured out my problem. That notch you got going on on your jointer is non existent on mine.

brad_nalor · Post by **brad_nalor** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:21 pm

Cast iron is a bit trickier to weld but is possible using nickel rod to even brazing. The cast iron crack should first be V-ground to get the penetration. I would try nickel in this particular situation. The key is preheating the cast iron and on the cool down cycle after the weld, slow it down by keeping heat to it and at the same rate of the weld / bond joint. Epoxy on this type of repair is not a good idea. Epoxy on cast iron such as in a cracked engine block can work, but not at a mechanical fix point or stress area.

hcbph · Post by **hcbph** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 12:55 pm

Here's an article in CarCraft about repairing a pair of cracks in an engine block. Might help
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html

easterngray · Post by **easterngray** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:13 pm

When my jointer was shipped to me one of the corners of the outfeed table was broken off. I reattached it with JB Weld and sanded the repair smooth and flush. It has held up beautifully. Alec

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Jointer Repair

Welding cast iron