Dresser drawers
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- dusty
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A Dado, A Groove or A Rabbet?
A Dado, A Groove or A Rabbet?
I think it is all a matter of terminology but then I am not well schooled in these matters.
If it fits tight, looks good and lasts a long time then it is a good joint.
But, as always, there is still another way to do some of this but may necessitate a new purchase. I prefer Charlese' approach which can be done with either a dado bit/blade or the saw blade.
I think it is all a matter of terminology but then I am not well schooled in these matters.
If it fits tight, looks good and lasts a long time then it is a good joint.
But, as always, there is still another way to do some of this but may necessitate a new purchase. I prefer Charlese' approach which can be done with either a dado bit/blade or the saw blade.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I am of the same mind as Tom on drawer construction. Admittedly, I've never cut a dove tail but I have made finger joints. It can be time consuming, so if you are just looking to make some shop drawers sturdy and functional, why not use screws and but joints? I did that with a chest of drawers in our bedroom and it looks great. For the front of the drawers, I ran a few stretchers across the top and bottom and screwed the front of the drawers on from the back of these stretchers and attached it to the drawers with screws from the back side. Quick, easy, strong.
Many thanks guys! I think I've got most of the drawer construction concepts down - except one...
The bottom of the drawer will be made of 1/4" ply. It will ride in a 1/4" x 1/4" groove that will be cut in the front, sides, and back of the drawer. Where exactly is this groove located? Should it be 1/4" up from the lower edge? 1/2" up from the lower edge? Is there a general rule of thumb for this groove, like maybe leave as much material under the groove as the groove is thick, or something like that? (Does that make any sense?).
The bottom of the drawer will be made of 1/4" ply. It will ride in a 1/4" x 1/4" groove that will be cut in the front, sides, and back of the drawer. Where exactly is this groove located? Should it be 1/4" up from the lower edge? 1/2" up from the lower edge? Is there a general rule of thumb for this groove, like maybe leave as much material under the groove as the groove is thick, or something like that? (Does that make any sense?).
JPG40504 wrote:Yeah I'se confused alright. I was thinking of a rabbet re the open sided 'dado'...
P.S. I also have had a problem with stiles and mullions and rails as well!
It has now dawned on me that I referred to the drawer joint in Post #6 as a dado and tongue. It would have been more correct to refer to the joint as a dado and rabbet. Gotta admit I was thinking of the 1/4" insert as a tongue. Actually it is just the part of the board left over from the rabbet. I guess a true tongue is made by making two rabbets.
As long as we are talking about drawer joints, there is also the locking dado, or double dado joint.
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Stiles are vertical - rails are horizontal - mullions are structural pieces that separate elements - maybe you were thinking of muntins. A muntin separates the "lites" or panes of glass. They are also called grids, glazing bars, etc.
These doors are structurally sound with the vertical stiles and horizontal rails. The horizontal glass separators are muntins. So are the shorter vertical ones.
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Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Underdog wrote:Many thanks guys! I think I've got most of the drawer construction concepts down - except one...
The bottom of the drawer will be made of 1/4" ply. It will ride in a 1/4" x 1/4" groove that will be cut in the front, sides, and back of the drawer. Where exactly is this groove located? Should it be 1/4" up from the lower edge? 1/2" up from the lower edge? Is there a general rule of thumb for this groove, like maybe leave as much material under the groove as the groove is thick, or something like that? (Does that make any sense?).
The bottom of the groove should be at least 1/4" from the bottom of the sides and the front. 1/4" is a more or less standard, however if you will be having more weight, maybe 3/8" might be more practical.
If you are going to use 1/4" plywood please be knowledgeable that it will fit loosely into a 1/4" groove.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- JPG
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charlese wrote: . . .
Stiles are vertical - rails are horizontal - mullions are structural pieces that separate elements - maybe you were thinking of muntins. A muntin separates the "lites" or panes of glass. They are also called grids, glazing bars, etc.
. . .
I was thinking of a paneled door, however I have tended to refer to all three(stile,mullion,muntin) as stile(bad habit caused by early ignorance).
Thank You for forced late understanding.
BTW Didja notice the correct reference to dado and groove in the you tube film?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Tue May 09, 2017 1:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Glad that photo inspires you, (I think). Anyway, the cabinet is 100% red oak. The finish which gives that color is Watco Golden Oak Danish finish followed by Varathane water based polyurethane clear floor finish. About 5 coats. Here's the whole thing.
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Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA