Refurbing a Scroll Saw

[JPG]

http://www.tc-11.com/index.html

No current distributers!

George doesn't do Paypal!

George is located in a risque neighborhood(Keakap doesn't want to return there!:eek:)

Used to be in Ace, True Value, Do It Best. Very limited current availability at DIB(while supplies last at one warehouse!)

Too bad since I think it is a superior product!

http://www.doitbest.com/Cleaners+and+pr ... 580074.dib

[jayp413]

Great pics and progress! You do top notch work!

[JPG]

Now the fun begins. Taking it apart. The first pix shows all the parts removed from the lower base assembly. The pix following are details encountered as it was disassembled. The sheet metal cover(s) removal was uneventful so no pix were taken of removing them. Neither were the removal of the front trunion clamp nor the blade alignment jig. I assume it was the PO who attached it to the base.

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Once the flat plate was removed, the air pump was free to be removed. Simple pump with no valves. The piston leather seal allows air in when it is 'retracted' and forces air out the bottom when pushed into the bore.
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Not expected was the one tooth offset of the counterbalanced gears. Not sure that was intentional.(?) I'll decide at reassembly whether to keep them that way.
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The shafts were retained by a small retaining ring. The outer bearings have a larger retaining clip also, but they did not need to be removed since once the shaft was free to move(in), the shaft and bearings were pushed out the back. The spacers on the shaft maintained the spacing between the inner and outer bearing on each shaft.
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A surprise was what appears to be a shim washer behind the left rear bearing. EDIT I need to mention that there was a shim washer on the back of the right rear bearing also! (5-20-2011)(5-21-2011)
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An additional surprise was that all the bearings are NOT metric!

The six drive shaft/cam/counterbalance bearings are all 1/2"id x 1 1/8"od x 3/8"wide. 1616ZZ

The two connecting rod bearings are 3/8"id x 7/8"od x 11/32"wide. 16042RS EDIT (2RS) not (ZZ) Sealed not shielded. (5-21-2011)

All the bearings are rubber sealed. EDIT The six drive shaft(s) bearings were 'shielded', not sealed. (6-7-2011)

They all appear to be in good condition so I may reuse them. Only the connecting rod bearings seem to have a slight amount of 'play;.

[holsgo]

http://www.amazon.com/Industries-400003 ... B000LNYA7K

I'll keep looking for the spray.

[holsgo]

http://www.supremehardware.com/servlet/ ... TOR/Detail

[JPG]

http://www.amazon.com/Industries-400003-TC-11-Rust-Control/dp/B000LNYA7K

I'll keep looking for the spray.

I do like the container, but almost $50/pint! Fortunately for penetrating oil, the container is quite stingy! Also fortunately a little gets it done.

I believe all these folks are selling 'old new stock'.

[JPG]

After a couple days soaking in almost depleted Evaporust(it is reusable but definitely loses 'potency') the what I concluded to be badly rusted cast iron parts were taken out. One was put back in for further 'treatment'. The other one was removed and cleaned up. It is interesting to note that the cast iron acquired a blackish 'patina' while the originally black oxided shaft became 'unoxidized'. All parts were waxed prior to reassembly(actual final assembly awaiting arrival of new bearings).

The counter weight and shaft were reattached to the gear in their original locations. The gear is secured to the counter weight by three screws with split tooth lock washers. These need to be tightened securely!
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This pix shows the assembly sequence of parts on the shaft. The pix following show the sequence I followed. The large retaining clip fits into a groove in the base casting bore. It prevents the bearing(and shaft etc.) from coming out the front of the bore. The small retaining clip fits in a groove in the shaft. It prevents the shaft from moving out the back of the rear bearing.
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The rear bearing is inserted into its bore. The bearing is inserted from the front as the back of the bore has a lip which prevents the bearing from moving out the rear. The shim washer is placed on the shaft, and the shaft is inserted into the bearing from the rear. We shall see whether this is possible with new bearings!
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The front bearing is inserted into the front bore from the rear(the presence of paint or the retaining ring makes that necessary). Originally the area between the retaining ring groove and the front was unpainted - tis now(intentionally). We shall see with new bearings if that will remain!
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The spacer is slipped onto the shaft and the shaft is pushed through the front bearing. Both retaining rings should now be installed.
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The simple reassembly stuff(things which are secured by a couple of screws/washers are not detailed here.

I would mention that there was a plastic 'tube seal' that covered the top of the air pump. The center hole of that plastic seal had worn to an elongated slot shape. I added a sheet of mylar(folded to cover both top and bottom of the original seal) with a hole that barely(almost) cleared the pump piston shaft. The pump sits in a depression in the base and a sheet metal cover placed over it that holds it in place.(see next post)

[JPG]

Reserving space for next post

[JPG]

While the counter weight were 'soaking' the base was prepped for 'recoloration'. Only the outer surfaces were painted over the original gray 'undisolvable' original splattered gray paint. Various other parts were painted to match.

If you do not know already, the paint being used is Rustoleum Hammered Coppertone. The upper assembly will be painted Rustoleum Hammered Gold.
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The label was initially masked off prior to painting. When I peeled the masking tape off, the label came with it leaving a very pretty gray area where the label once was. Had to repaint over that!:eek: The label may or may not stay put, but I am hoping an afternoon in the sun will make the adhesive stick. If not, more effort required.

All parts will be adjusted for fit and alignment as a final step.

Next is tearing down the upper assembly. Expect delay!

[jayp413]

Looking good. Sharp color!