Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
paulmcohen wrote:I think you can only change the speed or turn it off. My concern it turning it off. I have been cutting heavy oak for the past few days and I hate letting it go (even with outfeed tables) and then hunting for the off switch under the table.
I'm actually quite surprised that even with the new headstock the off switch is so hard to find.
It would be really nice to have a remote for the headstock. Maybe one day I will bust out a logic analyzer and figure out what signals the keypad is sending. Not today though, and certainly not in the next few weeks
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup
There is a difference between turning it off(keypad) and removing power(switch).
Removing power requires resetting everything on power up.
Turning off at the keypad, merely stops/starts it(all settings are retained).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:There is a difference between turning it off(keypad) and removing power(switch).
Removing power requires resetting everything on power up.
Turning off at the keypad, merely stops/starts it(all settings are retained).
Absolutely. And there is a difference between standby and physically off on your DVD player. I think you are getting a little too much into the semantics here.
Its not about subtleties, its about user experience and user intent. Having to reach under the table to turn off the saw is not a great user experience. I shouldn't have to turn the unit completely to use a knee switch. further, once you are using an spt the power switch is even farther away.
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup
damagi wrote:Absolutely. And there is a difference between standby and physically off on your DVD player. I think you are getting a little too much into the semantics here.
Its not about subtleties, its about user experience and user intent. Having to reach under the table to turn off the saw is not a great user experience. I shouldn't have to turn the unit completely to use a knee switch. further, once you are using an spt the power switch is even farther away.
Sure! But for old fogeys like me that is a subtle difference to which we are not accustomed. Way back in ancient times, off was off. There was no microprocessor monitoring a switch that then turned the gadget 'on'.
I raised that point here since the 'simplest' fix is to add a more accessible power switch in series with the power cord. That however will introduce the re-setup issue. This has been previously discussed as it is the same as plugging the ss into the planer power switch for the ss mounted model(s).
Realize other folks be listening, and they may not be aware of the off/standby 'feature' of the power pro.
I totally agree the location of the 'controls' is less than best and that requires pre-planning if stopping/powering down is needed.
IMHO it is better to consciously prevent the conditions that create 'hazards' that are typically the reason powering down is recommended prior to workpiece removal from the saw etc.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I don't know if you are familiar with x-10 technology, but you plug the shopsmith in to an appliance module and turn it and/or the DC on/off with a small keychain pocket remote, or a remote mounted on the headstock.
Ron309753 wrote:I don't know if you are familiar with x-10 technology, but you plug the shopsmith in to an appliance module and turn it and/or the DC on/off with a small keychain pocket remote, or a remote mounted on the headstock.
Sincerely,
Ron309753
It is a neat product for some applications but I want one that will handle 20amp. I have not found one.
I use something similar in the shop to turn on/off the over head lights. I keep the clicker hanging on the wall by the door into the house.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
The do have a 20 AMP Heavy Duty applaince module rated at 20 amps, 220v. The part # is HD245. I am not sure their normal appliance module will run the shopsmith or DC. I'll give it a try when I get the shop power squared away (hopefully by the end of next week).
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
dusty wrote:It is a neat product for some applications but I want one that will handle 20amp. I have not found one.
I use something similar in the shop to turn on/off the over head lights. I keep the clicker hanging on the wall by the door into the house.
Most of those things I see are too light for a serious (2 HP) dust collection system.
The auto-on units will work if you are using one machine and one dust collector but if you have a bunch of machines sharing one dust collection system using a series of blast gates or even if running say 4 machines and using two dust collectors they are kind of pointless.
In my old shop I was planning a long over-head (ceilings were a little low) rod the length of the work area that would operate a heavy knife switch disconnect from anywhere along the length of the area. I would have never been much more than a step away from the rod anywhere. The main machine floor area was a 12'X30' and the rod would have been along the length of it. I had thought of providing for an "L" leg to one side by using a bellcrank to turn the movement of a second rod 90 degrees.
That just is not practical in the new shop since a 24'X24' section in the center is cathedral ceiling. I could span the high area of course but would then lose the advantage of being able to flip a long board end for end vertically in that high area.
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
We have gotten way off topic, the Nova remote is small, wireless, controls speed, powers OFF and is cheap, it would be great is it was available for the PowerPro.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
