turning observations....

brick1 · Post by **brick1** » Sun Jul 03, 2011 9:51 pm

Hi All! finanlly getting the shop in the condition i want. i'm getting to play, turn and build while cleaning up some location issues with tools and the like.

i've turned several small projects and put a small log in now and then to just practice. i'm finding that i need to go very slow and use smaller tools for finish work as the quill seems to vibrate a lot if the hand is too heavy with the turning tools. are others of you finding the same thing?? with the roughing gouge it still needs to go slow or i have a lot of tear outs. and the skew, which i rounded off the sharp corners of the bar of, catches if the pressure in is just a little more than soft. the practice is working out good because i can now turn closer to the final shape without a great amount of sandpaper involved. i also detected a loose fitting tailstock part holding the morse taper ball bearing point, so i'm going to figure out how to tighten up the clearances in that part, tomorrow.

anyway, please dont take this as a put down, but rather as a learning and sharing information thread for those of us that love turning.......

i found an associate club of the American Association of Woodturners, here in Titusville, Fla. They meet the third wednesday of each month at the Holy Sprit Catholic Church on Holder Rd, at 7:00 pm. i showed up as a visitor for the June meeting and they published my project on the website!! Great Folks!!
http://www.brevardwoodturners.org/show&tell.html this is the link to my little vessel....

take care and looking for help always!!! bill

camerio · Post by **camerio** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:05 pm

Hi,

Which one is yours ? There are many pictures with different names, you said vessel but that could discribe a few of those shown on the website ... ?

peterm · Post by **peterm** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 6:19 pm

I think it is Bill Woodward, since the post is signed "bill"

camerio · Post by **camerio** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:48 pm

Thanks, I still dont see the name Bill in the post, but I beleive you.
And nice work Bill.

brick1 · Post by **brick1** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 9:46 pm

it was the cedar vessel and the name bill woodward should be close. it was a hand full doing the turning with very small tools and very soft touch.....

thanks, bill

jbooher · Post by **jbooher** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:48 am

Bill

Great job on your cedar bowl. Joining a turning club is a good idea. They will help you master the turning craft.

You said you were having problems with move out. Are you using a single bearing quill? If so purchasing a double bearing quill will make huge difference. Last year I purchase and refurbished a 500. Did not think I needed a two bearing quill. Last week I was getting the 500 ready to give to my son and tried using the table saw and turning. The saw cut were poor and turning was almost imposible. Took the double bearing quill out of my 520 and made a major difference. Should receive my new quil this week.

Good luck

James

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 1:29 pm

Looks good Bill. below are some thoughts I have on the problems you mention.

Just food for thought.

brick1 wrote: i'm finding that i need to go very slow and use smaller tools for finish work as the quill seems to vibrate a lot if the hand is too heavy with the turning tools.

Nothing wrong with going slow! Quill vibration could be several things: Too much pressure while cutting, tools not sharp enough, worn quill bearings, even the type of wood comes into play here.

with the roughing gouge it still needs to go slow or i have a lot of tear outs.

Definitely check the sharpness of your tools, softer woods and green woods can be prone to tear out. especially if the tools are not sharp enough. Also consider tool position. The gouge is a shearing tool and as such the bevel should contact the wood slightly above the center line of your turning. Remember, "ride the bevel".

and the skew, which i rounded off the sharp corners of the bar of, catches if the pressure in is just a little more than soft.

Skews are one of the trickiest chisels to learn to work with and many prefer an oval skew to a square one. Nothing wrong with rounding off the corners. Sharper tools are better of course. Lots of practice with the skew is also required. Skew work is a perishable skill, it needs to be practiced and worked often as it is a very fine motor skill. Gouge and scraper work on the other hand is a larger motor skill so the adage "Like riding a bicycle" comes in to play.

the practice is working out good because i can now turn closer to the final shape without a great amount of sandpaper involved.

Eventually with more practice especially with a sharp skew your expense in sandpaper will be reduced.

i also detected a loose fitting tailstock part holding the morse taper ball bearing point, so i'm going to figure out how to tighten up the clearances in that part, tomorrow.

The loose fitting tails stock could be the source of your vibration problems. I've had mine loosen up while turning. This is a unique problem with the Shopsmith that conventional lathes do not have. Logs and other out of balance object can create significant vibrations when starting off. these vibrations can lead to the eccentric and tool rest loosening up while turning. Check for tightness often when working with larger heavier items or when you begin to experience vibrations. WARNING do not over tighten the eccentric in the tail stock, it is aluminum and the steel set screw can damage it. Some blue loctite on the set screws can help also.

PS. Did I mention that sharp tools are critical to good results? Most turners I know are also pretty darn good lapidaries as sharpening often and well is required for turning.

Best of luck and keep up the good work.

Terry

brick1 · Post by **brick1** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 9:59 pm

Thank you James and Terry!! I'll check the bearing issue and fix as needed. last year when i got the machine, I took the quill out to polish, wax and do a good cleaning, but I didn't check how many bearings are there. it felt tight last year, and may be getting worn as i've turned many a piece of wood so far.

Terry, i'm going to put up a "flight check" list so i dont forget the really important things you mentioned! everytime i start to turn, i feel the edges and do a quick hone with a smooth small stone, but i may need to do a touch up before the quick hone? I've been using an older high speed grinder until this past weekend, when my lovely bride bought me a new woodcraft low speed grinder with the white stones. now i will learn this one.......
i agree the skew is a lot more involved, learning wise, than a gouge. all i've ever used until last year was gouges. i started in jr high wigh gouges and had never touched a skew until last year. its definately an experience. i've watched many videos and am now starting to see how one is used. but lots of wood shavings help in the practice area!!

the other tool she bought me was a 3/8 detail spindle gouge which i am using now to finish a widget out of cedar and maple.....hope the colors work together..??

thanks guys!!! bill

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 7:44 am

I'll just add that skews work best with spindle turning. Trying to use a skew on a bowl taking a shearing cut will likely get you a serious catch. Gouges are a much better choice.

The edges of the Shopsmith skew and others should be rounded over with a file. Otherwise they will nick the surface of your tool rest whenever you have a catch, leaving it rough and making it difficult to obtain a smooth surface on your turnings.

brick1 · Post by **brick1** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 10:24 am

thanks pennview! i haven't tried a bowl with the skew yet, and dont think i will now.......first i'm going to make sure the quill is right, then get down to serious business......i have a supernova 2 chuck that took a lot of the vibration out of turning, but it still needs to be a little tighter. between the quill and the tailstock, i should have the situation under control.

take care, bill