2 Bearing & Poly V upgrade

sandyj · Post by **sandyj** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 7:06 am

Sandy From NZ....
I have just spent half of my Easter Monday Upgrading the Quill and Drive for my 47yr old SS and the question I ask is - Why did I wait so long?
What a BIG difference.
Apart for a slight change in the gap between the table saw insert slot and blade alignment, everything just fitted. The machine runs smoother and quieter. I feel like I have a "new machine".
I pondered over a motor upgrade (3/4hp to 1 1/8hp) but I gave the motor a thorough inspection when it was out of the headstock and everything is just dandy. There is no play on the bearings and the motor fan seems to be doing its job just fine, maybe the switch is needing a replacement as it is a wee bit sloppy.
Workmanship alone makes me believe that this is one of the best products I have come across.
No I am not a stock holder but I do vote with my wallet. I will continue to buy SS, new replacement parts & accessories, and with the deals that come out from time to time, beats the cost and risk going the ebay way.

Happy Easter from Down Under
Sandy

pinkiewerewolf · Post by **pinkiewerewolf** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 9:21 am

Sandy, it sounds like your day was well spent.
In fact, it almost seems like you are preparing for a project.

Happy Easter from Nor-Cal.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 11:41 am

From all my experiences, I find that the older 3/4 HP motors are just as powerful as the 1 1/8 HP motors. Insuring that the alignments is right on helps for either motor. I am still using the 3/4 HP motors and/or Gilmer drives in most of my Shopsmiths. Rebuilding the Gilmer clutch helps prevent destroying the Gilmer belt most of the time if the quill is suddenly stopped. I do not use the Gilmer belt Shopsmiths for any sawing or drilling operations. Replacing the bearing in the Gilmer quill with a higher quality bearing really helps the quill accuracy.

I would recommend installing the Poly-V system for anyone with a Gilmer drive Shopsmith when possible. Replacing a damaged Gilmer belt can ruin a good day or two. I see no real reason to replace the 3/4 HP motor unless it is bad. Of course, these are only my opinion.

Bill Mayo

sandyj wrote:Sandy From NZ....
I have just spent half of my Easter Monday Upgrading the Quill and Drive for my 47yr old SS and the question I ask is - Why did I wait so long?
What a BIG difference.
Apart for a slight change in the gap between the table saw insert slot and blade alignment, everything just fitted. The machine runs smoother and quieter. I feel like I have a "new machine".
I pondered over a motor upgrade (3/4hp to 1 1/8hp) but I gave the motor a thorough inspection when it was out of the headstock and everything is just dandy. There is no play on the bearings and the motor fan seems to be doing its job just fine, maybe the switch is needing a replacement as it is a wee bit sloppy.
Workmanship alone makes me believe that this is one of the best products I have come across.
No I am not a stock holder but I do vote with my wallet. I will continue to buy SS, new replacement parts & accessories, and with the deals that come out from time to time, beats the cost and risk going the ebay way.

Happy Easter from Down Under
Sandy

chrispitude · Post by **chrispitude** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 11:42 am

When I bought my 500 used ten years ago, it came with the old 3/4hp headstock with single bearing quill. I purchased a new headstock from Shopsmith a few years ago to get the dual-bearing quill and it was a huge improvement in smoothness over the old headstock. I needed it to use the Shopsmith router to round over a piece of stock. (Boy it was scary turning that speed dial up! I only ever used it in saw or drill press mode before.)

It's a very noticeable improvement over the old headstock, or at least it was for me.

- Chris

eartigas · Post by **eartigas** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 1:58 pm

I am planning to convert from Gilmer to Poly one of my Greenies that looks in poorest condition.

I understand that to do such upgrade the following is needed:

New Quill
Poly-V Belt
Drive sleeve assembly (518145)
Idler Shaft Assembly (504177)
Eccentric Bushing assembly (515616)

I am not sure why my old Eccentric Bushing would not work in the new configuration, so I will appreciate any help to confirm this list.

Thanks

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 3:10 pm

eartigas wrote:I am planning to convert from Gilmer to Poly one of my Greenies that looks in poorest condition.

I understand that to do such upgrade the following is needed:

New Quill
Poly-V Belt
Drive sleeve assembly (518145)
Idler Shaft Assembly (504177)
Eccentric Bushing assembly (515616)

I am not sure why my old Eccentric Bushing would not work in the new configuration, so I will appreciate any help to confirm this list.

Thanks

These items new will cost $400 or more by the time you get them. I know Shopsmith needs the business. However, I recommend and help my customers buy a rebuilt "B" (toggle switch) headstock or the latest model "C" (rocker switch) headstock from a reliable seller and keep your old headstock as a spare or make a MINI Power Station using it. Of course, I rebuild Greenie headstocks and/or take trade-ins.

Yes, I would recommend the latest eccentric bushing from Shopsmith as it has changes that better helps secure the idler shaft than the early eccentric bushings.

Contact me offline if interested or have any questions.

Bill Mayo

eartigas · Post by **eartigas** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 3:34 pm

Bill:

Thanks for the insight. I already have an extra quill (single bearing but OK) for the newer model of headstock. I also have a drive sleeve assembly for poly V and a poly belt. So I actually only need the the Idler shaft assembly (on sale now for $88) and the eccentric bushing ($28). My latest greenie has the gilmer belt drive sleeve wasted and probably the idler shaft is poor. I believe, in this case, the change may be worth doing it, even if I will actually shorten it later.

I plan this upgrade for later this year but the parts are now on sale so I asked to make sure I get what is needed.

Comments welcome.

bach939 · Post by **bach939** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 6:57 am

billmayo wrote:From all my experiences, I find that the older 3/4 HP motors are just as powerful as the 1 1/8 HP motors. Insuring that the alignments is right on helps for either motor. I am still using the 3/4 HP motors and/or Gilmer drives in most of my Shopsmiths. Rebuilding the Gilmer clutch helps prevent destroying the Gilmer belt most of the time if the quill is suddenly stopped. I do not use the Gilmer belt Shopsmiths for any sawing or drilling operations. Replacing the bearing in the Gilmer quill with a higher quality bearing really helps the quill accuracy.

I would recommend installing the Poly-V system for anyone with a Gilmer drive Shopsmith when possible. Replacing a damaged Gilmer belt can ruin a good day or two. I see no real reason to replace the 3/4 HP motor unless it is bad. Of course, these are only my opinion.

Bill Mayo

What higher quality bearings do you recommend for the Gilmer quill? If you could give me the bearing numbers would be great.

holsgo · Post by **holsgo** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 9:17 am

Bearing numbers listed here:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ng+numbers

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:57 pm

chrispitude wrote:When I bought my 500 used ten years ago, it came with the old 3/4hp headstock with single bearing quill. I purchased a new headstock from Shopsmith a few years ago to get the dual-bearing quill and it was a huge improvement in smoothness over the old headstock. I needed it to use the Shopsmith router to round over a piece of stock. (Boy it was scary turning that speed dial up! I only ever used it in saw or drill press mode before.)

It's a very noticeable improvement over the old headstock, or at least it was for me.

- Chris

You want scary try a PowerPro at 10,000 RPM but I still love mine.

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