510 Boggs down While ripping

[otey]

Does anyone have sugestions to free up my 510 that boggs down while ripping?

I have tried for the last 6 months to keep my 1998 model 510 from bogging down while ripping with limited sucess. The headstock does get quite warm while ripping. I have tried everything that I can think of but have only gotten half way back to a free running machine. The material that I have tried ripping of late are Ceder, Pine, Hard Maple, Hickery, Butternut, Cherry, and Oak. I have addressed the following.

New carbide rip and combination blades
Sharpening blades
Pitch cleaning
Oiling Sheaves
Wax-buff, Wax-buff, and more Wax-buff everything
Replacing both belts
Replacing upper Quill drive bearings
Table, blade, fence alighnment

Before I did all this it would stop and blow breakers even when ripping soft 2" thick ceder.

I have been putting an addition on my house in my spare time for the last year and did leave the old girl outside under the deck, but covered with a tarp over the summer. (We had a rainy summer here in Wisconsin)

The old bearings did have a little catch and stiffness in them when I took them out. I do not know for sure but they might have had a little rust in them. I have noticed a little rust and dark discoloration on the spring that is separated to oil the motor sheave.

This machine acts like something is binding up with rust or gunk. Please feel free to offer your help and sugestions as I need to get this thing humming smoothly again to make a clock this spring.

[charlese]

Hi otey! O.K. - Assuming you were successful in aligning the table to the blade, your problem seems to me to be with the Poly V Belt. (521681).(reference Np. 55 on the exploded view)

This is a guess however. If your 510 seems to be heating up more while ripping than cross cutting - it could be because the Poly-V-Belt is slipping. Although you didn't describe the "bogging down" - if the blade is slowing while the motor is running - the problem would most likely be this belt.

It has to be tightened so that the deflection is less than 1/8" when pressed inward from the side. You do this tightening by rotating the "eccentric bushing" (look at Eccentric Bushing Assembly (515616) or (reference no. 103 on the exploded view.)

Also take a look to see that the Poly -V-Belt is vertically aligned. At one time mine was put back a little off of vertical - when put back right it made a noticeable difference. I Think the correct position starts with a 'one groove' spacing on the quill side of the upper shaft. (Nick had a post about this - I'll try to find it.)

You also need to be using the Upper Blade guard and Riving Knife.

P.S. Here is the reference I spoke of: You will find the one groove setting at about 17min, 45 seconds into the video. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... 0050&hl=en

[jimhart]

I'd look at 2 more things;

Consider a thin kerf blade. 2" thick lumber is nothing to sneeze at.

Are you running an extension cord? It's pretty common for people to deliver too little juice to the SS. There are tables somewhere re amperage and the guage extension cord you should use for various distances. If you're using a typical thickness extension cord that's 25 or 50' long, this could be your fix.

Jim

[otey]

Jim & Charlese

Thank you for addressing my problem, but I don't think these are the answers.

I am plugged directly into a 20 Amp circuit without an extension cord.

I have changed both belts and top bearings and have the ribbed belt adequately tightened.

The problem has only been diminished when I tried both of those suggestions early on in my diagnosis. I am not blowing breakers any more.

I still wonder if something in the sheaves or motor is dragging.

Otey

[Randy]

See this thread and see the post from Nick. It may help.

[a1gutterman]

Hi otey,
If the above thread does not help you, is it possible that the cut material is pinching the blade?

....You also need to be using the Upper Blade guard and Riving Knife....

I think that is what charlese may have been suggesting?

[reible]

Hi,

Sound to me like you are sure the machine is bogging down. I'm guessing that at sometime in the past it was working well and that the bogging issue is new, is that correct? You are still plugged into the same outlet and haven't added any new things to the fuse??

Since you have been inside the machine I would guess you have taken the time to get all the old saw dust out and looked around and didn't see anything odd. I'm guessing that you have thought of pulling the bottom belt and making sure things turn without the motor running as in turning it by hand.... and that you are sure that everything moves in respect to the sheaves and belts... it goes from high speed to low speed and back to high the way it should?? How about when you spin the motor by hand does it feel right?

Any bogging or other odd behavior when doing anything else or only when ripping??

I guess if I had to guess I'd check the bottom belt to make sure it is not trapped... other then that the motor would be my next guess.... pulling and cleaning it might be worth a shot and you could also take it to a motor shop and have them take a look at it if you think it needs that.

Operational most of the stuff has already been mentioned. I guess I would add to make sure the quill is locked and to lower your speed to the lower rip scale or even just below that. It wouldn't hurt to check the alignment of the rip fence to blade again.... I don't think you mentioned which model you have but some people have had issues with how the rip fence is adjusted, or mis-adjusted everytime they move it.

Just a few more thoughts for you,

Ed