Shopsmith Forums

It is not the 'run' current that causes switches to 'wear out', but rather the breaking of the inductive current when switched 'off'. Switches rated for higher current have larger contact points. Switches with a higher hp rating have larger contacts.

As mentioned above, the last points to open(of a parallel pair) will experience the arcing that deteriorates the switch.

Bill Mayo:

Locally (Calgary) I couldn't find the one you are pointing out in your previous post. What they had that I could get my hands on right away was this:
http://www.theswitchmaster.com/philmore-mfg._30-345.html?p=16454078

Have you used these? Any Issues?

Currently have the motor wired as parallel circuits through the switch and it tested fine last night. I guess we'll see in the long run, may take a logn time to find out.

Cody

BuffaloBill wrote:Bill Mayo:

Locally (Calgary) I couldn't find the one you are pointing out in your previous post. What they had that I could get my hands on right away was this:
http://www.theswitchmaster.com/philmore-mfg._30-345.html?p=16454078

Have you used these? Any Issues?

Currently have the motor wired as parallel circuits through the switch and it tested fine last night. I guess we'll see in the long run, may take a logn time to find out.

Cody

If it fails, it won't be because it was not rated high enough. It is a 20amp switch with the proper size and shape. I'll bet on the switch lasting a long time. I would do the same even if you wired it normally.

dusty wrote:If it fails, it won't be because it was not rated high enough. It is a 30amp switch with the proper size and shape. I'll bet on the switch lasting a long time. I would do the same even if you wired it normally.

I agree it is rated adequately, but is 20A at 125v.

More to the point, 1 1/2 HP!

JPG40504 wrote:I agree it is rated adequately, but is 20A at 125v.

More to the point, 1 1/2 HP!

Who said 30amp?

dusty wrote:Who said 30amp?

The leprechaun who also changed the color from black(30) to (20)!:rolleyes::D