Shopsmith Forums

Actually, I was a bit surprised with the measurements I got on the fence and miter slots. I didn't think it would be that good.

Regarding set up of the table saw function, I can only say there are many ways to skin a cat as the saying goes. There's nothing wrong using dial indicators and such, nor is there anything wrong with drafting triangles and the like. You likely could use a credit card for some of the process, but it's the end results that really count.

I like using a dial indicator to set up the slot to blade and the blade to fence alignment. But when it comes to squaring the miter gauge perpendicular to the blade or the blade itself to the table, I like to make test cuts on pieces of wood after making preliminary adjustments using a tri-square or triangle. That works for me. If you're satisfied with your tools for aligning the saw, I'm happy for you.

The more accurate your set-up (regardless of tools), the more accurate you woodworking will be. A case in point regarding the set-up of the Shopsmith planer. The company gives us a gauge made of stamped metal for setting the planer blades. It does work with a bit of practice, but if you sent your cutter head to the company, they will use a bank of three dial indicators to set the blades. Do you need dial indicators for this job? No, but they sure do make the job easier and likely more accurate than that stamped metal gauge.

Actually, I was a bit surprised with the measurements that I got, too. Now I have to figure out what to do with this crooked fence that I have been using for several years now.

Interesting to note: The straightest one is the one I got off EBay. It, however, has some significant scratches (rough spots) on the right hand face. It now hangs on the tool board where it will likely stay until I need two fences at the same time.

Dusty, you could try taking a sanding belt apart and placing it on a flat surface, like a couple of layers of MDF, and run the fence back and forth over it, knocking off the high spots.

pennview wrote:Dusty, you could try taking a sanding belt apart and placing it on a flat surface, like a couple of layers of MDF, and run the fence back and forth over it, knocking off the high spots.

Thanks for the feedback. I am still checking this whole thing out. Just this morning I was rechecking the variance across the length of the fence. I find that if I take the measurements down near the table I get a different set of numbers than at higher points.

I also find that the way I mount the gauge has an effect on the variance. How well the device rides in the miter track is very important (if minor variances are really important).

When doing this, it is important to acknowledge we are woodworkers and not machinists. The criteria are much different.

Sand the face of my fence. I shutter to think about that.