Metal cutting on bandsaw. Mods and data

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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

I took some time today to do up the FPM chart. So, you guys who want to cut metal will need to use this FPM chart and the included pdf to determine what speed to use based on material. For example, you want to cut cold roll bar stock 2 inches thick. Look up that metal on the speed chart.pdf then select the proper FPM from this table. Now, this could have been reduced further by using 8 inch pulleys, but you would understand quickly how you run out of room under the bench tubes to make that work unless you drop a few things. So your slowest FPM is fine for most everything except titanium, nickel and some of the harder steels.
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Band_Saw_Blade_Speed_Chart.pdf
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dforeman
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Post by dforeman »

Interesting design. I would be curious to see how well the Shopsmith Band saw tires hold up. I would think that would be the limitation for using the Shopsmith Band Saw for cutting metal.

Ooooo, I get from the initial entry holsgo that you didn't understand why metal cutting bandsaws run slower. It has to do with keeping the temperature down on the blade itself. If the blade heats up it will loose its temper quickly and fail. Therefore, they reduce the RPM's down to keep the temperature of the blade under control. In some of the larger commercial units you will notice they use liquid injection. The liquid is not only used to take away slivers but to also keep the blade temperature under control.
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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

No, I understand totally why it runs slower. My issue about 6 months ago was the pulleys and their ratio in speed reduction.
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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

here you go. Action shots and my tip of the day.
This is a 3/4 bar on setting E. Lubricated with 3 in one. Any lube will do as coolant.
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But I used oil to clump the shavings together better.
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Nice cut. Square and no burrs.
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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

I know the issue of the metal shavings onto the rubber belt is an issue. So. I solved it. Look at this mess. All collected in one easy to clean place.
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Yup, a magnet. Placed on the steel blade guide block right near, but not touching, the bandsaw blade. Collects the filings in an easy to remove way. Took the magnet off, over to the paper towel and easy clean.
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A quick brass wire brush and no issues. Surprising few filings make their way to the rubber. Now what does is brushed away. Now, non ferrous is another issue but the use of coolant/oil will clump the filings nicely.
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peterm
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Post by peterm »

holsgo, here is a sled to carry work past your metal cutting blade. This guy did a nice job of it:
http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Tooli ... .html#Sled
Peter
a 510,a Mini, dedicated SS drillpress, SS spt's, home made SS belt grinder, SS piston air system, Southbend 10k lathe, mill/drill, Taig
paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

prmindartmouth wrote:holsgo, here is a sled to carry work past your metal cutting blade. This guy did a nice job of it:
http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Tooling/BandSawFeed/bandsawfeed.html#Sled

The link does not seem to work.
Paul Cohen
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A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

It did yesterday. Had some good ideas.
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peterm
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Post by peterm »

You are right! It worked when I posted but not now. I will try to find a similar page and post it later.
Peter
a 510,a Mini, dedicated SS drillpress, SS spt's, home made SS belt grinder, SS piston air system, Southbend 10k lathe, mill/drill, Taig
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rlkeeney
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Post by rlkeeney »

frets.com seems to be having a problem. The front/homepage doesn't work either.
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