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Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 8:41 pm
by JPG
mgdesigns wrote:Sorry for the delayed reply - I was visiting my Dad in FL who will turn 90 on the 25th of June.
The joint is probably drawn a bit wrong - should have been 1/8" - 1/4" - 1/4" - 1/8" for 3/4" plywood or solids. But the tongues are squared as shown, not mitered ends. The purpose was to have a finished edge always. No room for errors though.
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Same answer as before re setup Ed.
Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:03 pm
by reible
Maybe one of these days I'll dig the bit out and do a show and tell of the set up....
While it may not look it in the catalog these are massive bits that I would only run in a 3-1/2HP router (12K rpm). They take the whole cut in one pass, in one case the wood is on the table with the fence as the guide, the other side is run on the fence with the table as the guide.
The other "issue" is that you are left with only the thin edge of the work piece left after the cut. I use double side tape to hold scraps to the work piece so it has more surface to rest on.
This is also the case where you will most likely want to profile the bit into the fence. So add that to setup time and effort.
I have the 3/4" inch size and so far as I know they only have two sizes, this and a 1/2"??. Wood needs to be pretty much to size for things to work. And when you do the testing remember to move things only half as much as you think you need them to move.
Ed
Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:12 am
by pennview
Another possibility that avoids making that second cut on edge with the stock held vertically and passed over the bit is to use a horizontal router table. With the router horizontal, the second cut is similar to making the first cut on a standard router table. The only problem is that you need both types of tables to do it this way.