Page 2 of 4

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 12:59 pm
by keakap
judaspre1982 wrote:Glad to hear you found a way to tame the PP Headstock while in bandsaw mode.

I hope they find a better way of dealing with the problem. I'm sure it has been frustrating for both you and the others involved trying to solve the bandsaw/PP issue....Dave
Been away from the Forum for awhile. And that's partly due to my B/S- PP problems having been fixed. Anaway, apparently I've missed a thread or two re BS/PP problems. I just wanted to interject a comment, maybe help the thread. I had BS/PP troubles (pounding etc.) and they were resolved by PP reprogramming, some while back. All of it was documented here on the Forum, and my final has been verified ever since. Problem gone.

FYI.
Cheers. (Indeed!)

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 1:33 pm
by keakap
charlese wrote:...No one has been able to address the banging etc. when the PP is hooked directly to the bandsaw. I've gone over my bandsaw completely and this had absolutely no effect. I believe there is some type of harmonic between the wheels in the bandsaw and the PP. The Speed reducer removes this relationship.

Question - Do you have rubber tires in your bandsaw?
Wholly moly!

I didn't make the connection befo. I wonder...

Brief history: Had banging (drive start-stop) prob with (old) band saw, new PP. Lived with it for awhile until it became a serious safety issue (table saw blade "banged" loose). Fixed by reprogramming.
Now the coincidences. I got on the Forum to ask what adhesive to use on the urethane BandSaw tires. Ended up ordering new parts- 5/8 blade, blocks, tires and wheels. BeCAUSE my urethane tires had become loose enough to not only slip on the wheels but then worked their way off the front of the wheels enuf to send the blade free flying into the framework, eventually (what a word to describe a few milliseconds!) destroying the blade, carving up some parts and knocking the wheel out of whack.
And your question reminded me of the BS/PP start-stop problem. It knocked the Main (table saw) arbor setscrew loose and let the t-saw blade free-wheel. Not nice.
But I never befo thought about those uretahne tires, one "advantage" of which was that they were mounted withOUT glue. Those BS wheels were also going thru the start-stop torture, and I'd bet a month's rent that the tires suffered, enuf to cause their subsequent failure.

2 things: my BS/PP banging brouhaha was not caused by rubber tires; and after seeing this urethane tire failure coming after that Bbb I would caution everyone to very carefully check your tires for alignment and slippage if you've had the banging thing.
These things may not be related, but it takes what- 2 or 3 minutes to check the tires (and maybe save 2 or 3 hunnert bucks).

And just in case anyone hasn't caught it yet: the "banging" thing is a very real very serious problem, or set of problems.

Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 12:16 pm
by brad_nalor
Reading thru the few threads of the issue but getting mixed reviews (a few with heated discussion). So is the box checked - problem resolved?

Are the new units shipped with a modified program?

Is there a serial number break to determine if the earlier machines need reprogram?

Does one have to invest in a speed reduction contraption as another thing to contend with?

So I guess all older bandsaws need upgrading to use with the PP? Never had issues running on a Mk5.

Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 2:00 pm
by SDSSmith
brad_nalor wrote:Reading thru the few threads of the issue but getting mixed reviews (a few with heated discussion). So is the box checked - problem resolved?

Are the new units shipped with a modified program?

Is there a serial number break to determine if the earlier machines need reprogram?

Does one have to invest in a speed reduction contraption as another thing to contend with?

So I guess all older bandsaws need upgrading to use with the PP? Never had issues running on a Mk5.
I waited over a year before ordering a PowerPro to allow the SS folks an opportunity to work out the kinks. My DIY PowerPro, purchased in May 2012, is back in Dayton to resolve the intermittent chatter that occurs when using my bandsaw. The bandsaw is a 1980's vintage bandsaw. I also had some issues with losing power when ripping furring strips out of 2x4's.

The SS IT guru, Wes Powell, worked with me on program adjustments. Those were unsuccessful, so the headstock was sent to Jim McCann, SS Engineering guru. I have my fingers crossed that he will find the cause.

Though I still have my speed reducer and do believe that it would eliminate the bandsaw problem because of causing the PP to run at a much higher speed, I do not feel that it is an acceptable solution.

I will let the group know how it all works out. BTW for the little I have gotten to use it, I really do like the PowerPro.

Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 12:36 pm
by bosox
dickg1 wrote:The bandsaw has the original tires. I purchased it from Shopsmith about five years ago.
Dick
Did you ever thought of any change if you replace rubber tires to urethane?

Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 1:26 pm
by reible
bosox wrote:Did you ever thought of any change if you replace rubber tires to urethane?
Hi,

Welcome to the forums! Always nice to see someone new posting.

As to you question see post 12.

Ed

Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 2:17 pm
by fredsheldon
I just noticed last night while using my bandsaw that the input shaft does not line up with the drive shaft from my PP. I have not measured it but I can see that the coupler connects at an angle on the horizonal plane towards the rear. In other words, the bandsaw seems to be out of alignment towards the rear about 1/4 of an inch. Is this normal or is there an adjustment I need to perform.

Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 2:32 pm
by beeg
I'm knot surprised, ya replaced in insides of the SS. Just realign the BS shaft to the new hub position.

Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 5:36 pm
by dusty
fredsheldon wrote:I just noticed last night while using my bandsaw that the input shaft does not line up with the drive shaft from my PP. I have not measured it but I can see that the coupler connects at an angle on the horizonal plane towards the rear. In other words, the bandsaw seems to be out of alignment towards the rear about 1/4 of an inch. Is this normal or is there an adjustment I need to perform.

Yes, it is normal until you align the bandsaw for that specific Mark V. You really do not want to use the any spt whose power hubs have not been aligned. Hard on the drive line and even harder on the power connector.

Fred: you need to read your operator's manuals.

Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:48 am
by JPG
1/4" is very excessive mis-alignment(especially for a pp).

IIUC the bandsaw was never aligned prior to the pp upgrade.

The pp upgrade should not have repositioned the top drive shaft position.

If you have the eccentric mounting posts, they need to be adjusted to align the bs shaft to the headstock shaft(f-r) and vertically as well. If you have straight mounting tubes, it gets more 'complicated'!