Dual Carriages
Moderator: admin
Well, I seem to have started this silliness. I am having a "Doh" Homer Simpson moment. Why do I need a tiebar at the left end, anyway? I should be able to lock down the carriage at the end- so far I can't think of a scenario where the lock lever will really make a difference. And, if necessary, the casting is beefy enough to drill and tap for the ubiquitous setscrew. What do you think?mt
1983 Mark V- beltsander, jigsaw, Stripsander,jointer, bandsaw-double carriage and tables with molders and drums, Over Arm Pin Routers(Freestanding x 2)Second Mark V.
Mtobey,
I'm glad your having fun with your shopsmith. They are great for that as well as actually using them for woodworking.
I feel maybe I should just let you find out yourself about how the system works but.... Much of how the shopsmith keeps alignment is in the way the way tubes and bench tubes work together. When clamped together they become a ridged assembly. If you do things to defeet that it is OK and may work for some operations but others are going to get messed up.
As an example, when I went to use my shopsmith I will from time to time do a quick alignment check. Since it seems to keep its alignment I was shocked one day when it was clearly not aligned. I started to gather my gear to fix the problem....... as things sometimes go I noticed the headrest handle was up. Locked it back down and guess what the alignment was back to being right on.
Having the tubes twist has been mentioned several times in relation to having the lift installed and twisting the tubes.... Some times the solution to having the headstock sticking can be fixed by rotating the tubes... of course you might conclude you can cause the problem by doing other things but the system is designed to have all the bars in position and clamped.
Again what you are doing may not affect your use of the machine but if things seem to be flakey that also might be the problem.
Anyway I'm glad to see someone tinkering with the machine... and posting about it.
Ed
I'm glad your having fun with your shopsmith. They are great for that as well as actually using them for woodworking.
I feel maybe I should just let you find out yourself about how the system works but.... Much of how the shopsmith keeps alignment is in the way the way tubes and bench tubes work together. When clamped together they become a ridged assembly. If you do things to defeet that it is OK and may work for some operations but others are going to get messed up.
As an example, when I went to use my shopsmith I will from time to time do a quick alignment check. Since it seems to keep its alignment I was shocked one day when it was clearly not aligned. I started to gather my gear to fix the problem....... as things sometimes go I noticed the headrest handle was up. Locked it back down and guess what the alignment was back to being right on.
Having the tubes twist has been mentioned several times in relation to having the lift installed and twisting the tubes.... Some times the solution to having the headstock sticking can be fixed by rotating the tubes... of course you might conclude you can cause the problem by doing other things but the system is designed to have all the bars in position and clamped.
Again what you are doing may not affect your use of the machine but if things seem to be flakey that also might be the problem.
Anyway I'm glad to see someone tinkering with the machine... and posting about it.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Thanks for the reply and understanding. I have always had an interest in putzing around with mechanical things. Your point is well taken that passing over the function of existing components- eg. the lock- could be creating a problem with maintaining alignment. I have this desire to wring the most I can get out of this beast. I don't cut big flat panels of material but when I cut anything I can't operate on a "close enough" basis. So, as I have said too many times already, the inherent accuracy in a SS just keeps on amazing me. I think some of the passion is my desire to tone down the scoffers. I plan to make a fair number of planes using only SS( loosely said since the OPR has Freud and PC installed) and vindicate the SS to some of my forum pals.
I am always open to criticism and education and you have already been a big help on several issues. Tomorrow is a big day because I will find out just how well a good Olson blade in the "Jig" saw will cut free machining .25 brass. And, I will go at honing and reinstalling the jointer blades. I'll keep all of you posted, or better put, I'll drive all of you veterans to distraction. Regards, Mike
I am always open to criticism and education and you have already been a big help on several issues. Tomorrow is a big day because I will find out just how well a good Olson blade in the "Jig" saw will cut free machining .25 brass. And, I will go at honing and reinstalling the jointer blades. I'll keep all of you posted, or better put, I'll drive all of you veterans to distraction. Regards, Mike
1983 Mark V- beltsander, jigsaw, Stripsander,jointer, bandsaw-double carriage and tables with molders and drums, Over Arm Pin Routers(Freestanding x 2)Second Mark V.